Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped

B C

Where did you source the reman?

gilber33

What kind of clunks were you getting with the driveshaft? I.e. what was happening when clunks were present? And how did it destroy your CSB? Was the bearing toast? Did it rip apart the rubber surround on it?

straight6pwr

B C said:

Where did you source the reman?

driveshaft: BuyAutoParts.com $350 w/free shipping. i basically cruised the internets until one went on sale, as I didnt want to pay 500-900 for a driveshaft.

gilber33 said:

What kind of clunks were you getting with the driveshaft? I.e. what was happening when clunks were present? And how did it destroy your CSB? Was the bearing toast? Did it rip apart the rubber surround on it?

a 'thunk thunk thunk' when accelerating from a stop. goes away in every other condition. even worse when accelerating and turning (loading up the back suspension causing the driveshaft to flex even more). pretty easy to tell it was coming from under the ebrake in the tunnel.the seizing driveshaft joints were causing the driveshaft to want to stay in a slight 'v' shape when spinning, causing it to hit the tunnel or the sides of the CSB bracket. after awhile if you leave it go, the metal bracket part of the CSB breaks and/or the rubber surround gets torn.

the first one i replaced looked like this, and the one i replaced yesterday broke in a similar way:

gilber33

straight6pwr said:

driveshaft: BuyAutoParts.com $350 w/free shipping. i basically cruised the internets until one went on sale, as I didnt want to pay 500-900 for a driveshaft.

a 'thunk thunk thunk' when accelerating from a stop. goes away in every other condition. even worse when accelerating and turning (loading up the back suspension causing the driveshaft to flex even more). pretty easy to tell it was coming from under the ebrake in the tunnel.the seizing driveshaft joints were causing the driveshaft to want to stay in a slight 'v' shape when spinning, causing it to hit the tunnel or the sides of the CSB bracket. after awhile if you leave it go, the metal bracket part of the CSB breaks and/or the rubber surround gets torn.

the first one i replaced looked like this, and the one i replaced yesterday broke in a similar way:

Thanks for the explanation! My drivetrain still has some noises, but nothing remotely similar to that. I think the car just has drivetrain noises and I have to learn to accept that. I believe it might be some excess lash in the diff (or maybe completely normal and I’m a paranoid psychopath).

B C

gilber33 said:

Thanks for the explanation! My drivetrain still has some noises, but nothing remotely similar to that. I think the car just has drivetrain noises and I have to learn to accept that. I believe it might be some excess lash in the diff (or maybe completely normal and I’m a paranoid psychopath).

As I mentioned before, you would probably be horrified by the sounds my diff makes, which are completely normal. They are inherent to clutch-type diffs

Smooth driving can make them unnoticable but backing out of a parking spot will almost always make noises.

Some clunks can be from the driveshaft and CSB but there is also an inordinate amount of gear lash in our old transmissions as well.

Get a louder exhaust

gilber33

B C said:

As I mentioned before, you would probably be horrified by the sounds my diff makes, which are completely normal. They are inherent to clutch-type diffs

Smooth driving can make them unnoticable but backing out of a parking spot will almost always make noises.

Some clunks can be from the driveshaft and CSB but there is also an inordinate amount of gear lash in our old transmissions as well.

Get a louder exhaust

Backing out the garage and driveway is when it’s the loudest.

I was planning on opening up the exhaust at some point. I can always keep the stereo cranked too.

straight6pwr

lol i everytime i close my windows in the e30 while driving for a phone call, there seems to be even more tire/diff noise from the back of the car and I'm like

gilber33

It’s loud when the windows are open. It’s loud when the windows are closed. I tell myself this is normal it’s an old car it’s supposed to sound all clunky.

straight6pwr

yeah, its hard to have a conversation on the freeway

which i like. its just music, no blah blah blah

Jdesign

My car use to make a ton of noise when I had the top down....

.

I fixed it by putting a car cover on it and never driving it. SURPRISE! No more noise.

straight6pwr

did a rear wheel bearing a month ago, will post that here when i get a chance

but in the mean time, cleaned the car one last time this weekend. storage wheels will go on in the next day or so and she go into the garage for a few projects over the wenterz

straight6pwr

so the main project over the winter is going to be to pull the rear subframe out, much like @gilber33

i mainly need to do the bushings, and the chassis-to-subframe SS brake lines, but will be doing the 'while you're in there things', as well.

i also dug up my previous to:do list and skimmed it to remaining items. don't know if i'll do any of this, but one can hope.

find washer fluid pump/sensor wiring, or add it. reconnect washer tank to hood hoses.
wire in electric fan correctly. https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=210783
Buy ignition cylinder/key to match VIN.
Shadowline window trim.

HipMF

Nice festoon lighting.

If worshiping at the church of the flaming bushing isn't your style, and you're not in a rush to get started, I could send you the subframe bushing puller that I made:

straight6pwr

Mike, that would be awesome. PM sent.

gilber33

I'm assuming as a seasoned e30 owner you already know how to do the entire thing blindfolded - but if you have any questions, let me know since I just dealt with it all.

My first reaction while I was doing it was all of the write-ups online are complete bullshit and it's not as easy and quick as they make it out to be. It sucked.

Boris3

HipMF said:

If worshiping at the church of the flaming bushing isn't your style, and you're not in a rush to get started, I could send you the subframe bushing puller that I made:

If by any chance this is the Harbor Freight pitman arm puller (ground down a bit) plus plumbing pipe cap and you supply your own two/three jaw puller DIY tool, I've still got the first two pieces that were floating around the group as a shared tool a while back. It "works" as long as your bushing are not original and really stuck in there. I'd be happy to send it on to anyone who needs. I even have a new cap since I trashed the old one.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1389953-A-better-subframe-bushing-puller

m42b32

+1 on doing it with a puller tool. I had my old bushings out of the subframe in a matter of minutes with a crappy homemade tool (made from some square tube scraps) and a bit of heat from a torch to coax it free.

straight6pwr

gilber33 said:

I'm assuming as a seasoned e30 owner you already know how to do the entire thing blindfolded - but if you have any questions, let me know since I just dealt with it all.

My first reaction while I was doing it was all of the write-ups online are complete bullshit and it's not as easy and quick as they make it out to be. It sucked.

Thanks! I've done all of the jobs that separately add up to rebuilding the rear, just never at once. My car is much less crusty than average so hopefully that keeps me from losing sanity.

straight6pwr

I'm almost to the rear end rebuilt project. I've been focusing on getting my garage and basement workshop setup for all the future projects so all my spare time has been dedicated to that.

Workbench

the previous owner of my house left the skeleton of a workbench which, by my best guess, was built by the original owner in the 70s. pretty basic, and the top was completely warped and trashed. it was a good size, though, so i decided to modify it instead of start from scratch.

before:

after:

for the work surface, I ripped 25 2x4s to 3" then laminated them together using all-thread rods to clamp and hold it together permanently. then I just hand planed and sanded the top nice and flat. on the front face, I added some tee-nuts on the back of the first 2x4 before the glue up so I have several holes for clamping/mounting tools, etc. (you can see them as pairs between the all-threads)

i reused the drawers from a reclaimed walnut lawyer's desk and also added two shallow drawers.

the tool-wall is just a 4x8 3/4" plywood sheet. the holders are a mix of custom-made plywood brackets, hanging screws, PVC, and magnetic strips. its hard to believe that up until this point I worked with all these tools out of tool bags, tool boxes, and bins.

YoungCR

Very nice! Love the bench top design

WIBIMMERS

Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped