Turbo m52 obd2
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Got the obc relocated want to make it a little more tidy but it's good for now.
Got a new shallow radio with out a CD player but need to trim the heater core housing a little to make it sit flush. It was 28 dollars shipped and came in two days and looks fairly stock.
new hood shocks installed also.
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What kind of projectiles fire when the red button is pressed?
It shoots a liquid combustible at the intercooler. I bought a generic washer container for my meth system and it came with a pump, nozzles, and that red button so I wired it up to spray the intercooler. Will I ever use it? Do I think it will give me any gains? Probably not is the answers
Got everything put back together. I am probably going to get a different gauge holder because the 10 dollar amazon one is pretty flexible and will probably break when I take it out. Plus not really a fan of the staggered look.
also ordered a new oil pressure gauge to match the boost one. Three miss matched gauges were killing me, and the oil pressure gauge in there now is mechanical and don't want to risk that exploding in my dash.
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What's the silver button next to the red one?
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What's the silver button next to the red one?
It's a dial for the manual boost controller.
Got these wheels today they were super cheap and in near new condition.
Have a little to much going on for me but they fit perfect 18x8 up front and 18x9 in the rear.
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Put in the walbro 450, its running on a 10 gauge cable straight from the battery through a relay signaled by the original fuel pump circuit.
Got a matching oil pressure gauge that is elctronic still have to put the sensor in.
got some fleebay center armrest cover for $15 and it was worth the gamble fittment wasn't perfect, I'm sure if I had another person I could've made it look better, but not bad for the price.
Other goodies soon to go in
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With all of that extra fuel flow it must be hard to keep that thing in a straight line.
That would explain the ASC -
Basically installed all new front and rear suspension, solowerks coilovers, camber plates/ caster now, strut bar in the rear and soon to be in the front and adjustable rear control arms.
New turbo old one had lots of shaft play, probably would've grenaded and was soaked in oil.
Need to drop the rear some more just wanted to make sure I wouldn't rub. It looks goofy especially with the hoopty wheels.
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Thats a Juicy turbo, what did you replace it with?
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I've got a fender roller if you need it
So far I'm good but I'll keep that in mind.
Thats a Juicy turbo, what did you replace it with?
Another Egay turdblow to4e 57 ar.
Gt35 on standby is going in soon but figured for 125 dollars I'll get the car up and running.
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Well this happened
This is the in tank fuel line from the pump the only one that I left stock luckily this caused a no start at home. I'm guessing it was from the accidental 20+ psi pull, and the ethanol eating through it once it bulged. Just glad it happened when it did.
My new fuel pump wiring setup is 8 awg wire to st95 solenoid. The spade connections on a regular 50amp relay was melting. This is not the finished product still need to secure everything.
lowered the rear slightly still going to drop more.
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Problem was discovered and fixed roughly in a hour including part store run for some hoes included. I have the rear seats out because I was cleaning them and applying leather conditioner. I couldn't here the pump kick. So I checked battery voltage, it was 11.7 so I gave it a boost and still same thing. I checked voltage at pump connector that was good, and pump ohmed out at 0.01 plugged in and put my ear right by it and could here fuel splashing like the return side normally makes so I pulled it and found the offender.
still need to figure out why my wastegate is not actuating, isolated the boost controller to rule that out but didn't get any further than that.
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Hope you used submersible fuel line, not just fuel injection hose, or you'll have that problem again.
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