My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)
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I started with the knuckles by removing my Motorsport Hardware studs.
As you can see, they have been around the block a few times.
I then tapped the safety tab out on the nuts and removed them.
The inner race was left behind.
I thought it would be hard to remove but I was able to slide it off with two screwdrivers underneath.
I removed my ABS sensors next since the ABS is deleted.
I also removed the dust shields and threw them in the trash.
They were now ready for some cleaning.
I taped up the spindles to keep them from being damaged by the sandblasting.
I then got them as clean as I could and ready for powder.
The next thing to tackle are disassembling and prepping the calipers and carriers.
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Have you tried metro auto parts? They seem to have the oddball stuff most the time. I mean, they had rebuild parts for my e21 calipers. Just another thought.
Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk
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Have you tried metro auto parts? They seem to have the oddball stuff most the time. I mean, they had rebuild parts for my e21 calipers. Just another thought. Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk
Andy looked and they don't look like they carry the seal kits=/
I started yesterday but removing my old front lines, all of the pads, and then the carriers.
I will be removing the pistons from the calipers today. Yesterday I couldn't find a rubber tipped air nozzle to be able to blow them out with compressed air.
I got the carriers all cleaned up and ready for powder too.
I looked into the pricing for the carrier bushings, carrier guides, anti-rattle clips, bleeders, and new mounting bolts and was blown away.
It is about $200 to buy sets for both the front and the back. There are brass carrier bushings that end up costing almost $20 less when getting everything else. They take away the side to side give that the rubber bushings have, making the pads wear flatter under hard braking. They aren't really neccessary for me since I won't be pushing my brakes to the limit, but I am not sure if it will hurt upgrading to them to cut down on cost. In my head upgrading sounds like it makes sense instead of paying more for factory bushings.
Has anyone ran brass carrier bushings on their calipers? This is turning into an overpriced nightmare=P
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I decided against the brass bushings as from my reading it appears they need to be disassembled and lubed frequently, as in a couple times a year. I haven't had any issues with uneven wear using the stock setup, I will be using braided lines when I put mine back together, the pedal should have good feel with ABS delete and braided lines.
Also what sort of blaster do you have?
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That's the thing that is swaying me away from them. I wouldn't really mind lubing them regularly since they're easy to quick disassemble. CaTuned is coming out with braided stainless e36 lines and I am getting them for my fronts as soon as they get in next week=)
I just looked at RockAuto and my mind was blown yet again. They have the carrier guides and bushings for dirt cheap. They even seem to have rear rebuild kits for over $30 cheaper than anywhere else. I might as well just get it all from them and see how it works out. What do you guys think?
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The lube and relube thing is what initially came to mind....although I didn;t even know they existed. I suppose it's probably what race cars use, which would make sense as everything is rebuilt every race or 2. I think you would want the rubberized ones just for the longevity, even though they are not as high performance.
Note: I almost always go for high performance over just about anything else.....but having to relube the brakes a few times a year is enough to make me turn away.
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can you find out who makes the cheaper units? They might be an off brand with lower quality standards. Sort of like when you buy from pelican, they have OEM, OEM supplier, but not branded, then offbrand 1 and usually offbrand 2. Gets cheaper each time, but, depending on the part, sometimes it's not worht the money saved on the off brand. This is especially true when looking at suspension, drivetrain, and braking components.
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can you find out who makes the cheaper units? They might be an off brand with lower quality standards. Sort of like when you buy from pelican, they have OEM, OEM supplier, but not branded, then offbrand 1 and usually offbrand 2. Gets cheaper each time, but, depending on the part, sometimes it's not worht the money saved on the off brand. This is especially true when looking at suspension, drivetrain, and braking components.
^This, I don't like doing stuff over because of crap parts. Not saying RA is bad, just in general. I bought a cheap replacement radiator support for out Maxima because it was rusted out and not only was the fitment terrible but it was so much thinner than the OEM part that It couldn't even support the engine cradle. I had to make a reinforcement from angle iron and weld in to hold it all together.
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I have used Centric brake parts before and they seem good. The rotors I have gotten were from Canada in fact.
Canadia parts on a German what has this world come to????!!!!!
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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