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  4. My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)

My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)

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  • EarlE
    EarlE
    Earl
    wrote on last edited by
    #947

    I believe Bassboy is just throwing them in his toaster oven=)

    If I were to have a place do powdercoating I would go to Hytec and talk to my buddy Jed.

    museum sig 2earl.jpg

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • B
      B
      B C
      wrote on last edited by
      #948

      I need some stuff ceramic coated by Hytec

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • Bassboy3313B
        Bassboy3313B
        Bassboy3313
        wrote on last edited by
        #949

        Looking good as usual Earl!

        CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • EarlE
          EarlE
          Earl
          wrote on last edited by
          #950

          Thanks bud=)

          museum sig 2earl.jpg

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • EarlE
            EarlE
            Earl
            wrote on last edited by
            #951

            I stopped out at the shop Sunday hoping to do a bit of work but it was way too cold. I grabbed my calipers and front knuckles to pull apart at work this week.

            I am in the middle of breaking down the knuckles and will be doing the calipers sometime this week. The 46mm nut on the knuckles is going to be a fun one. It is supposed to be on at 221 ft/lbs.

            I am breaking this all down in preparation for powder and new hubs. I need to find some rebuild kits for the calipers since I am splitting them. Has anyone found a good place? I have been told Autozone and will be calling them after work for pricing.

            museum sig 2earl.jpg

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • wasnt m3W
              wasnt m3W
              wasnt m3
              wrote on last edited by
              #952

              That big ol' nut shouldn't give you too much grief. Breaker bar and a piece of pipe is all it takes.

              m3sig-1.jpg

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • EarlE
                EarlE
                Earl
                wrote on last edited by
                #953

                I got them completely disassembled and sandblasted very easily. Pics to come=)

                museum sig 2earl.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • EarlE
                  EarlE
                  Earl
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #954

                  I started with the knuckles by removing my Motorsport Hardware studs.

                  CAM00364zpsn6hhdq3r.jpg

                  CAM00365zpse8drlhhh.jpg

                  As you can see, they have been around the block a few times.

                  I then tapped the safety tab out on the nuts and removed them.

                  CAM00362zpshmsufu7g.jpg

                  CAM00367zps7lnbps98.jpg

                  The inner race was left behind.

                  CAM00366zpshxde7vt6.jpg

                  I thought it would be hard to remove but I was able to slide it off with two screwdrivers underneath.

                  I removed my ABS sensors next since the ABS is deleted.

                  CAM00368zps3jhabp1g.jpg

                  I also removed the dust shields and threw them in the trash.

                  CAM00370zpsjzlsuv3t.jpg

                  They were now ready for some cleaning.

                  CAM00371zpskfa7ucyq.jpg

                  I taped up the spindles to keep them from being damaged by the sandblasting.

                  CAM00372zpsz3wu8qzd.jpg

                  I then got them as clean as I could and ready for powder.

                  CAM00373zpsyvgmifwx.jpg

                  CAM00374zpswoxtvx4h.jpg

                  CAM00375zpskjkuvfwk.jpg

                  The next thing to tackle are disassembling and prepping the calipers and carriers.

                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • jc43089J
                    jc43089J
                    jc43089
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #955

                    I like!

                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • R
                      R
                      REKIII
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #956

                      What did you find on the Autozone rebuild kits?  A bunch of years ago I was looking for rebuild kits for my rear Neon calipers.  Autozone had them listed, but couldn't get them.....I thought it was odd.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • EarlE
                        EarlE
                        Earl
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #957

                        I actually forgot to give them a ring yesterday. I will be shooting them a call as soon as they open today.

                        Edit: Just gave them a call. They cannot get rear kits but they want $8 for each front.

                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #958

                          Why don't you want to just buy rebuild kits from any BMW parts place, pelican, bavauto, etc?  The quality of parts store parts leaves something to be desired in my opinion.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • EarlE
                            EarlE
                            Earl
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #959

                            I cannot find rear kits that I amn sure will work. Supposedly the compact has model specific rear calipers. I have been told Centric is the way to go. They are OEM quality and used for the rebuilt calipers people purchase.

                            museum sig 2earl.jpg

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • Bassboy3313B
                              Bassboy3313B
                              Bassboy3313
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #960

                              Have you tried metro auto parts? They seem to have the oddball stuff most the time. I mean, they had rebuild parts for my e21 calipers. Just another thought.

                              Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

                              CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • EarlE
                                EarlE
                                Earl
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #961

                                Bassboy3313 said:

                                Have you tried metro auto parts? They seem to have the oddball stuff most the time. I mean, they had rebuild parts for my e21 calipers. Just another thought. Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

                                Andy looked and they don't look like they carry the seal kits=/

                                I started yesterday but removing my old front lines, all of the pads, and then the carriers.

                                CAM00376zpsxr0s4wm6.jpg

                                CAM00381zpshdmtn4lo.jpg

                                CAM00380zps8urtf1uy.jpg

                                CAM00390zpskmvi9yle.jpg

                                CAM00391zpsz3cbevl1.jpg

                                I will be removing the pistons from the calipers today. Yesterday I couldn't find a rubber tipped air nozzle to be able to blow them out with compressed air.

                                I got the carriers all cleaned up and ready for powder too.

                                CAM00384zpsytl2l8zf.jpg

                                CAM00386zpscfja2w06.jpg

                                CAM00387zpseuagwodb.jpg

                                I looked into the pricing for the carrier bushings, carrier guides, anti-rattle clips, bleeders, and new mounting bolts and was blown away.

                                It is about $200 to buy sets for both the front and the back. There are brass carrier bushings that end up costing almost $20 less when getting everything else. They take away the side to side give that the rubber bushings have, making the pads wear flatter under hard braking. They aren't really neccessary for me since I won't be pushing my brakes to the limit, but I am not sure if it will hurt upgrading to them to cut down on cost. In my head upgrading sounds like it makes sense instead of paying more for factory bushings.

                                Has anyone ran brass carrier bushings on their calipers? This is turning into an overpriced nightmare=P

                                museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • jc43089J
                                  jc43089J
                                  jc43089
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #962

                                  I decided against the brass bushings as from my reading it appears they need to be disassembled and lubed frequently, as in a couple times a year.  I haven't had any issues with uneven wear using the stock setup, I will be using braided lines when I put mine back together, the pedal should have good feel with ABS delete and braided lines.

                                  Also what sort of blaster do you have?

                                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • EarlE
                                    EarlE
                                    Earl
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #963

                                    That's the thing that is swaying me away from them. I wouldn't really mind lubing them regularly since they're easy to quick disassemble. CaTuned is coming out with braided stainless e36 lines and I am getting them for my fronts as soon as they get in next week=)

                                    I just looked at RockAuto and my mind was blown yet again. They have the carrier guides and bushings for dirt cheap. They even seem to have rear rebuild kits for over $30 cheaper than anywhere else. I might as well just get it all from them and see how it works out. What do you guys think?

                                    museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • R
                                      R
                                      REKIII
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #964

                                      The lube and relube thing is what initially came to mind....although I didn;t even know they existed.  I suppose it's probably what race cars use, which would make sense as everything is rebuilt every race or 2.  I think you would want the rubberized ones just for the longevity, even though they are not as high performance.

                                      Note: I almost always go for high performance over just about anything else.....but having to relube the brakes a few times a year is enough to make me turn away.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • R
                                        R
                                        REKIII
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #965

                                        can you find out who makes the cheaper units?  They might be an off brand with lower quality standards.  Sort of like when you buy from pelican, they have OEM, OEM supplier, but not branded, then offbrand 1 and usually offbrand 2.  Gets cheaper each time, but, depending on the part, sometimes it's not worht the money saved on the off brand.  This is especially true when looking at suspension, drivetrain, and braking components.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • jc43089J
                                          jc43089J
                                          jc43089
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #966

                                          Just make sure any braided line is DOT approved, some of them aren't.  Brakes are no place to cut corners.

                                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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