E30 Control Arm Bushing Tool.
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A couple things that have worked for me:
This works great for separating ball joints and tie rods from the control arm
http://m.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=ball+joint+separator
A basic gear puller will help get the bushing off the end of the control arm. Same one I used for the rear subframe bushing.
For reinstall you can get lollipops with bushings already pressed in from bimmerworld if you don't want to use the vise , press route. Poly goes in easier.
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If the control arm is on the car I expect you would need the tool. I was replacing everything so did this with the control arm off the car.
I used dawn dish soap uncut to lune the end of the CA and the sleeve on the cab and just threaded it on. The end of the lemforder control arm has a slight threading so you can just 'screw' it on. Grab the lollipop and rotate it clock wise as you push against the control arm. It will take a bit of work but it goes on. One side went on fairly easily. The other side I had to have someone stand on the control arm while I threaded on the CAB. Took a lot more muscle but I got it on.
Make sure you have the lollipop orientation correct. I had to redo one.
Not sure if it makes a difference but I was also using the m3 offset cabs.
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i made a wood contraption to push the control arm into the bushing. take long 2x4 or 2x6 and drill a hole in it just bigger than the end of the control arm. place the lollipop to position the opening over the hole. put some lag screws into the wood around the bracket part of the lollipop to hold it from rotating. while standing on top of the 2x4, and using soap as a lube like others have said, twist twist twist and push down. its hard work but it will go down. make sure you stop every so often to check that you havent pushed it in too far!
another thing that I've heard, but never tried, was to put your control arms in the freezer to get the metal to shrink a little to help it go in. if you do this make sure you let it warm back up to ambient temperature before you install it on the car.
Dan
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FYI the correct procedure is to use a lube like dishsoap and install them quickly and set the car on the ground before it dries so there is no preload. I always use centered e36 m3 bushings for e30 and e36 because they have more solid area vs air space. It's a fight but I have always done them with control arm on the car, lots of soap and twisting, a large deadblow hammer can help to get them started.
Sent from my potato phone.
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If you are reusing the ball joints do not use the pickle fork to separate them from the knuckle. Once you have the nut off just tap on the knuckle with a hammer and the ball joint will separate. If you use the pickle fork you will damage the boot and need a new ball joint.
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This has worked great for me multiple times to separate ball joints and tie rod ends w/o damage to the boots:
Just use anti seize on the long bolt and be prepared for the gunshot bang when the joint releases
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Just in case anyone is wondering what I wound up doing:
My control arm itself was fine. I was replacing my struts and tore the boot on the outer ball joint. After several failed attempts at finding a replacement that fit, I was prepared just to replace the whole damn arm just to get the car back on the road. << Impatience got the best of me, not my finest hour. After a few beers, and a couple days away from the car, i tried ordering a cheapo ball joint, took the boot off that, and voila! Back in business.
Anyway, struts installed, boot replaced, and many happy miles under the tires since.
I did say that one of the reasons for getting this car was to learn on...
Nonetheless, thanks for all the input on how to work the bushings. I'm sure it will come up eventually.
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