Calypsorot '90 325i Coupe
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I went and bought some bolts from Ace that matched the thread pitch of the trans bolts and used those. Make sure they are rated accordingly
Edit. I was able to use 2 of my existing bolts (maybe because 24v)
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I went and bought some bolts from Ace that matched the thread pitch of the trans bolts and used those. Make sure they are rated accordingly
Edit. I was able to use 2 of my existing bolts (maybe because 24v)
That's the plan tomorrow. Working split shifts all week so I'll be at the shop most likely tearing things apart.
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I went and bought some bolts from Ace that matched the thread pitch of the trans bolts and used those. Make sure they are rated accordingly [emoji6]
Edit. I was able to use 2 of my existing bolts (maybe because 24v)
This is what I did as well. Nice work Chris!
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Bought some M8/M10/M12 bolts from the hardware store and got this mounted up. I guess too long on the length but just ran the through and it all worked out. Matt and I then started picking parts off.
Removed the head to find the intake valve had broke in cyl 3 as guessed.
Still in there! Basically a hole through the center of the piston.
Plan from here on out is to start parts shopping/planning a budget to see how extensive the build could be. Gonna strip all the accessories/parts off the junk motor to get things cleaned up and powder coated while we wait on the new motor.
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Wow! That's pretty awesome!
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Update time!
So I'm taking a job for the summer where I'll be out of state and so we decided instead of rebuilding the car as planed that we would just put the new motor in and get the car driving instead of sitting in the shop till next winter.
Picked up the motor Monday afternoon and we installed it last night. Bought the motor and trans from Jdesign's vert with ~140k. It's really clean but of course leaks a little oil like any m20.
It was an all night affair getting the motor in as I wasn't organized as we changed directions of the build plan 180*, mostly just had to find/remember what hardware went where. Ended up doing the reverse of how we removed the old motor: slid motor/trans under, lifted, then installed front sub frame.
A big thanks to Jason for getting the motor to us earlier than planned and being a huge help on installing the motor too.
The car cranks but no fuel at the moment, fuel pump isn't priming so next step is to diagnose that. Matt ordered a csb and garagistic 80a rear subframe bushings as the only other maintenance items needed.
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So it will be at the e30 picnic?
That's the goal! I probably won't be there though.
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WHAT ABOUT CARS AND COFFEE!?!?!?!?
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It's looks just like the M20 that I pulled out of my 325 when I got it! I know that update was awhile ago, but guess who didn't see it until now.
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WHAT ABOUT CARS AND COFFEE!?!?!?!?
I've been going every week Patrick! Sadly I'll miss all the lake mills though.
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Pat and Jameson stopped by while Matt and I worked on the car this afternoon, I'm somewhere in that pic. Got the old harness out and swapped on a different one but still no priming even of the fuel pump. So now the fun begins, hopefully I can kill two birds with one stone when I figured this out to help with the e28's basically the same issues.
bentley procedure isn't helpful so I'm gonna run through this tomorrow. http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot
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Sorry I didn't make it over Sunday, I was being lazy. Not sure if it's the same with the M20, but the M42 doesn't always prime. Some people say it does, others say it doesn't. You can jumper the relay to verify that the pump is working (key may need to be on). If it runs when jumpered then you should be good to go. Let me know if you need any help or an extra pair of hands.
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Alright guys I'm stumped. Engine cranks with fuel and spark but still doesn't fire. Brand new VDO fuel pump, new temp sensors, all cyls have spark, injectors have power, fuel and main relay have power, jumping main relay turns on icv, swapped 3 dme's in with no luck.
I have something wired wrong though as I can crank the car from the ignition switch but I can't from the diagnostic port.
Although I didn't modify/touch these I did notice some wire hacking under the column. The black/yellow wire was spliced and reconnected twice and the green wire was spliced with a extra wire joined in but not connected to anything. Is this the green wire that goes to the coil?
Also the two prong connector off the engine harness by the dme is for the OBC correct? This car doesn't have a 13 button and I can't find any wire that would plug into this.
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Issue I ran into with a friends e30 was the green wire and a bad immobilizer connection. Either make sure things are plugged in or bypassed.
Same symptoms: fuel, spark, good Dme, and no start.
Can't tell from your pics if this is the issue. See green wire section here:
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot
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Yes, those connectors go to the obc.
Its very strange that there is fuel and spark yet no start.
Is the idle control valve working/buzzing? With the ignition on?
Can you hear the injectors firing while cranking ?(rubber hose as a stethoscope works here)
Can you do a stomp test ?(as a quick easy check of the functionality of the TPS)
Its not uncommon to mix up the TPS and ICV connectors as well as the cylinder ID and crank sensor connectors under the diagnostic connector.
Was this car originally an automatic? And does it have any aftermarket alarm system?
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Issue I ran into with a friends e30 was the green wire and a bad immobilizer connection. Either make sure things are plugged in or bypassed.
Same symptoms: fuel, spark, good Dme, and no start.
Can't tell from your pics if this is the issue. See green wire section here:
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot
Where is the Imobilizer? That's the page I've been using to diagnose issues.
Yes, those connectors go to the obc.
Its very strange that there is fuel and spark yet no start.
Is the idle control valve working/buzzing? With the ignition on?
Can you hear the injectors firing while cranking ?(rubber hose as a stethoscope works here)
Can you do a stomp test ?(as a quick easy check of the functionality of the TPS)
Its not uncommon to mix up the TPS and ICV connectors as well as the cylinder ID and crank sensor connectors under the diagnostic connector.
Was this car originally an automatic? And does it have any aftermarket alarm system?
Icv works, tps and icv connectors are different so not mixed up. I've tried switching cylinder id and crank sensor plugs with no luck.
i haven't listened to the injectors or done a stomp test. Car is originally a manual and I believe those wires were cut for a alarm system that is no longer present.
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