E21 Project Thread - Part 2

[KaiserRolls]

Bassface sell the 225s and buy the RS4 245s if you're worried about the look

[Bassboy3313]

Now for the tricky part. Welding these bad boys on with the subframe still on the car. Can it be done? Stay tuned for a gripping update....

[Jdesign]

You are a God if you can make that happen. BRB Im getting some popcorn.

[Bassboy3313]

Jdesign said:

You are a God if you can make that happen. BRB Im getting some popcorn.

I gave up, you win!

[B C]

Do you need help putting that back in?

[Bassboy3313]

We shall see after I weld in the adjustments tomorrow morning

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[Bassboy3313]

Finally got everything welded and the holes slotted after some tool banging, swearing and too many trips to northern tool.

[Jdesign]

uggghhh that looks annoying. Mostly because mine is all painted and its seems yours is too.. Please get someone to help you put it back in the car. I know all to well how annoying it is by yourself on the ground. 

[Bassboy3313]

Jdesign said:

uggghhh that looks annoying. Mostly because mine is all painted and its seems yours is too.. Please get someone to help you put it back in the car. I know all to well how annoying it is by yourself on the ground. [emoji20]

It wasn't that bad at all. The nice thing about the e21 is that the subframe mounts unbolt from the subframe. So I install the mounts on the frame studs loosely. Then roll assembly underneath, jack it up and bolt the subframe to the mounts after getting them lined up.

The thing I'm running into now tho is that with the subframe mounted, jacking up the diff puts it at an angle that the mount arms I welded on the car doesn't like. Somehow I need to pull the rear side of mounts towards rear of car about an 1/8th for the diff cover to clear them. I'm thinking maybe rent a slide hammer from AAP and give it a few whacks. That's my best idea.

[Bassboy3313]

rear end is back in the car, camber adjustments arbitrarily set to the middle and is already way better than before. I'm in the process of torquing all bolts to spec and just have the driveshaft to diff, axle castle nuts and toe adjustments bolts to torque down. I need to do either some clearancing to the subframe mount plate or make a custom wrench in order to tighten/adjust the tow bolt. Between the subframe bushing mount bolt and the mounting plate, makes it impossible to get a normal wrench on the bolt. Once that's all done, just gotta fill diff with fluid and *crossing fingers* everything should finally be done and I can move onto engine stuff.

[Jdesign]

NOICE!!! Engine stuff is the best stuff. Glad you are getting/got the subframe sorted. +1 points for you sir.

[Bassboy3313]

Haven't had ANY time to work on this thing the last few weeks. I finally got the front wheels/tires on and my old setup sold to recoup some cash. All that is left on the rear end is to fill the diff with fluid and bolt up the driveshaft to the diff.

I have been brainstorming exhaust ideas and not sure what I will do yet. One thought is side exit right in front of the rear wheel, but I would want it to be super quiet which seems hard for a side exit. The reason I consider it is because with the new e30 diff conversion, I no longer can route the exhaust above the subframe, it must go underneath, which I am afraid will hang too low for comfort. Just brainstorming right now. I guess I won't know until I get the car up and look underneath again.

[Jeff]

What size exhaust pipe are you thinking of running?

[Bassboy3313]

Planning on sticking with the 2.5"

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[Jeff]

These things sound amazing and are not very loud. I have 1 3" one on my e36 and it is quiet when cruising and wakes up at WOT. No drone is also a big bonus

Shorter one

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/flo-12512409

Longer

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/flo-12518409

[Jeff]

May bad this is the one I use it is a little different

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/flo-13012100

[Bassboy3313]

Hmm I'm liking that that first one you posted its body is only 4" vs the 6" of the correct one. The 4" would keep it tucked up where it doesn't hang lower than the floor under the car. I'll have to ponder this.

I've been brainstorming with Brian and we thought that I could run an oval section under rear subframe so it doesn't hang as low. Trouble is I'm having a hard time finding a 2.5" transition adapter to go from round to oval. Then another to go back to round after subframe.

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[wasnt m3]

Were you looking for something like these?

http://www.racemufflers.com/Oval-to-Round-Transitions-s/2021.htm

[Bassboy3313]

Yes, but as you see the smallest size seems to always be 3". I need 2.5"

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[Bassboy3313]

This may work ...

http://spintechmufflers.com/frame-clearance-tube-priced-each/