E21 Project Thread - Part 2
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Been sick all weekend, so couldnt do much outside. I ended up working more on the rear end and figuring out the axle lengths. Turns out, the distance from diff flange to hub flange is different on both ends. Only by 3/8" tho. One side I got 38mm shorter than stock and the other I got 28.5mm shorter than stock. At this point, I'm just gonna split the difference and get 2 axles the same length. Figure it's better to have 3/16" difference on both ends than 3/8" difference only on one end. Gonna be contacting Machine Service in Pewaukee this week for a quote on shortening my axles.
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I like the jig you made to size up the axles
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
And so it begins ...
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Pls document this really well, I have to do this soon (rebuilding them)
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don't let the CVs fall apart under any circumstances. once the balls fall out, you'll never get it to work again (unless i'm just unlucky and/or stupid) I have one that's so froze up I can clamp the CV in the vise and hang off the axle and it doesn't budge. e21 CVs are NLA. I managed to find an NOS one for a reasonable price on flea-bay, but it took some digging...
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Time to sell your house!
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*DROOL*
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Still slowly moving along with the half shafts, but figured I'd do some more body work. Got the old rear valance cut off and the euro one welded on. I also welded up 2 holes I had to cut rust out, but didn't get pics of those. Next step is grinding/smoothing out the welds, skim coat of body filler and lots of sanding. I will be removing the side marker lights and welding up those holes too.
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Just ordered 4 cv boot/end kits from wallothnesch in the motherland.
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In progress
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CV boot replacement kits from W&N came in from Germany
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I guess you could say that. Since the shop in Waukesha (that I was referred to by multiple people) wouldn't shorten my halfshafts, I took it upon myself to get it done. They need shortening because I am running a medium case diff in a custom subframe I had made. So, my dad and I have been doing it periodically after hours and on weekends at his work shop. Just can't have the bosses seeing is all. I figure since I'm getting all that done, might as well clean out the CV joints and put new flanges/boots/grease in them. W&N was the only place that had a complete boot kit for the e21. Others just had the boot and clamps and would of had to buy the grease and such separate for practically the same price.
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I hear Ray has a dynamic balancer at his work I will ask him about. Otherwise I will just take them to a driveshaft shop and have them statically balanced. The way we are making them, the fitment tolerances are almost 0, so they shouldn't be too far from already being balanced. The only factor that could potentially throw the balance off is how the welding comes out.
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Also the speed of the axle rotation is significantly less than the driveshaft. I don't think you would have any problem just running them. I might be wrong but wouldn't the forces rise at an exponential rate to the rotating speed? So if the rotation is 1/3rd to 1/4th the speed of the driveshaft depending on dif ratio the out of balance would have to be very bad to cause a vibration like an unbalanced driveshaft? Or you would have to be going 200+ mph.
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dave - i once took my first e30 to this truck frame and axle place when my rear frame collapsed at the spring perches. they did a good job, but the thing that stood out is they didn't care what kind of car it was they were willing to just get it done. maybe worth a call for the axle building/balancing?
Frame & Axle Services Co, 4220 N 126th St, Brookfield, WI 53005, (262) 783-4802
Dan
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