E21 Project Thread - Part 2
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Well, after letting it sit for a day and the battery on a charger just for good measure, I went out there to try again. Tried to start it like normal and nothing still. Took my multimeter and checked that the main power wire going to starter had same voltage as battery, it did. I then hooked up my remote tester switch to the diag. port to test the ignition wire on the starter for 12V. Starter started cranking, didn't know car was in gear, ran over my foot, ouch!! Took it out of gear, hooked the push button back up to the diag. port like I usually have it, went inside cabin to start car, fired up no problem.
So my conclusion is I am either looking at a starter that is starting to go out or the wiring at the diag. port is being finicky and I should find a new way to wire up my push button start. Thoughts?
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I got one with the sedan project, so maybe ill get that one tested and see if its usable. If so, I could swap it into the e21 and get that one rebuilt for the sedan.
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Turns out the wiring connection on the starter from the sedan is completely broken. So looks like I'm in need of 2 starters now.
On a side note. Made a front strut brace yesterday.
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Question for you engineers.
When the strut brace is bolted in like that, couldn't the towers still move? I'm sure it's negligible, just curious.
The IE bar I have is solid from tower to tower fwiw
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I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them.
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I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them.
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It sometimes helps with install if I jack the car up from the middle of the front subframe and let everything hang lol
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I believe it may be the push button itself. Hooked remote button to diag port, it cranked. Hooked push button up to diag port, it cranked too. Pushed it again and nothing. Hooked remote button to diag port and it cranks
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Thanks to Kyle's shop mate Connor, I'll be picking up my new modified rear subframe hopefully this week.
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Only a few guys I know have done it this way. Others have used the entire e30 subframe and just weld the e21 mounts to ends. That changed the offset and spacing tho. Same with using entire e28 subframe which others have done too.
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All about the rare parts up in here
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Yanked the starter out and got it tested at orielly. It's shit!! Grabbed a spare one and it tested good. I'll be throwing the good one in tomorrow and seeing what happens.
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Also, got a dead pedal from andy. Thanks again!
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Looks like you're about to grate some cheese to go with those grapes.
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Threw the starter in that tested good and all seems fine now. We shall see how it does for awhile. Now to figure out this MS tuning fiasco.
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Brian came to the rescue once again and figured out there was a vacuum leak from what MS was showing. Sure enough, the vac line to the ecu was off. We put it back on and drove around for a fair amount of time. Running great now!
I also started fitting the hood with the aerocatch hood pins. Talk about nerve-wracking.
I decided to make a little experiment with using the oem roller hooks instead of using 2 more pins near the windshield. Seems to work quite well. Now to just figure out how to do it permanently and stronger.
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I had a sync loss problem with megasquirt. So, when in doubt, do as Snapsquatch does ... sand off powdercoat from trigger wheel teeth and replace powdercoated crank sensor bracket with a clean bare metal one. Who would have thunk, IT WORKED!!! Well, I'm pretty sure it did since I somehow revved to 6996rpm even tho my limiter is set to 6500rpm. Used to sync loss right after 5000rpm. Fix one thing, find another. The nature of the beast.
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