E21 Project Thread - Part 2
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So I got into my car this morning to do another tune run, push the start button (push button ignition) and I got absolutely nothing from starter. Everything gets power when I flip the ignition switch, but no cranking whatsoever from starter.
Battery is brand new, so that can't be the issue. All wiring I see is snug and tight. I have my start button wired up to the diagnostic port pins that go to starter and battery bus. It was the easiest way to do it at the time. I did disconnnect the wires and connected my remote test button to diag. port and still nothing. Haven't had any issues until now. Hell, it even started up just fine on monday.
Anybody have any ideas for me??
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No I haven't. I'll have to look into it as I'm not familiar with doing that.
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Use a screw driver to jump the posts.
Build is looking great!!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Use a screw driver to jump the posts.
Build is looking great!!
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I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars
I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools
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Yeah. I wouldn't want to mess anything up further
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DrLeadFoot said:
Use a screw driver to jump the posts. Build is looking great!!
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I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars
I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools
Is this why none of my cars work? Lol
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@DrLeadFoot
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Well, after letting it sit for a day and the battery on a charger just for good measure, I went out there to try again. Tried to start it like normal and nothing still. Took my multimeter and checked that the main power wire going to starter had same voltage as battery, it did. I then hooked up my remote tester switch to the diag. port to test the ignition wire on the starter for 12V. Starter started cranking, didn't know car was in gear, ran over my foot, ouch!! Took it out of gear, hooked the push button back up to the diag. port like I usually have it, went inside cabin to start car, fired up no problem.
So my conclusion is I am either looking at a starter that is starting to go out or the wiring at the diag. port is being finicky and I should find a new way to wire up my push button start. Thoughts?
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I got one with the sedan project, so maybe ill get that one tested and see if its usable. If so, I could swap it into the e21 and get that one rebuilt for the sedan.
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Turns out the wiring connection on the starter from the sedan is completely broken. So looks like I'm in need of 2 starters now.
On a side note. Made a front strut brace yesterday.
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Question for you engineers.
When the strut brace is bolted in like that, couldn't the towers still move? I'm sure it's negligible, just curious.
The IE bar I have is solid from tower to tower fwiw
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I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them.
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I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them.
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It sometimes helps with install if I jack the car up from the middle of the front subframe and let everything hang lol
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I believe it may be the push button itself. Hooked remote button to diag port, it cranked. Hooked push button up to diag port, it cranked too. Pushed it again and nothing. Hooked remote button to diag port and it cranks
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Thanks to Kyle's shop mate Connor, I'll be picking up my new modified rear subframe hopefully this week.
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Only a few guys I know have done it this way. Others have used the entire e30 subframe and just weld the e21 mounts to ends. That changed the offset and spacing tho. Same with using entire e28 subframe which others have done too.
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