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  4. E21 Project Thread - Part 2

E21 Project Thread - Part 2

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • Bassboy3313B
    Bassboy3313B
    Bassboy3313
    wrote on last edited by
    #304

    Straight lines are hard

    6f9048287ff30b933a850f7c74d8926f.jpg

    2d715f80c6ff54e25ac1857f88a35190.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

    CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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    • Bassboy3313B
      Bassboy3313B
      Bassboy3313
      wrote on last edited by
      #305

      So I got into my car this morning to do another tune run, push the start button (push button ignition) and I got absolutely nothing from starter. Everything gets power when I flip the ignition switch, but no cranking whatsoever from starter.

      Battery is brand new, so that can't be the issue. All wiring I see is snug and tight. I have my start button wired up to the diagnostic port pins that go to starter and battery bus. It was the easiest way to do it at the time. I did disconnnect the wires and connected my remote test button to diag. port and still nothing. Haven't had any issues until now. Hell, it even started up just fine on monday.

      Anybody have any ideas for me??

      Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

      CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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      • EarlE
        EarlE
        Earl
        wrote on last edited by
        #306

        Did you try jumping power straight to the starter to make sure the solenoid didn't shit out?

        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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        • Bassboy3313B
          Bassboy3313B
          Bassboy3313
          wrote on last edited by
          #307

          No I haven't. I'll have to look into it as I'm not familiar with doing that.

          Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

          CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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          • DrLeadFootD
            DrLeadFootD
            DrLeadFoot
            wrote on last edited by
            #308

            Use a screw driver to jump the posts.

            Build is looking great!!

            Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

            15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                 @DrLeadFoot

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            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #309

              DrLeadFoot said:

              Use a screw driver to jump the posts.

              Build is looking great!!

              Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

              I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars

              I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools

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              • Bassboy3313B
                Bassboy3313B
                Bassboy3313
                wrote on last edited by
                #310

                Yeah. I wouldn't want to mess anything up further

                Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                • DrLeadFootD
                  DrLeadFootD
                  DrLeadFoot
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #311

                  Snap said:

                  DrLeadFoot said:

                  Use a screw driver to jump the posts. Build is looking great!!

                  Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

                  I am wary of that method on EFI equipped cars

                  I have heard horror stories of fusible links and ecus being fried from accidentally bumping the starter terminals with tools

                  Is this why none of my cars work? Lol

                  Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

                  15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                       @DrLeadFoot

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                  • Bassboy3313B
                    Bassboy3313B
                    Bassboy3313
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #312

                    Well, after letting it sit for a day and the battery on a charger just for good measure, I went out there to try again. Tried to start it like normal and nothing still. Took my multimeter and checked that the main power wire going to starter had same voltage as battery, it did. I then hooked up my remote tester switch to the diag. port to test the ignition wire on the starter for 12V. Starter started cranking, didn't know car was in gear, ran over my foot, ouch!! Took it out of gear, hooked the push button back up to the diag. port like I usually have it, went inside cabin to start car, fired up no problem. 

                    So my conclusion is I am either looking at a starter that is starting to go out or the wiring at the diag. port is being finicky and I should find a new way to wire up my push button start. Thoughts?

                    CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                    • YoungCRY
                      YoungCRY
                      YoungCR
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #313

                      I would wire up the ignition into the end of the harness instead of the diag port just to  eliminate concerns but a new starter wouldn't be a bad idea either.

                      Chris Young
                      BMWCCA #458972
                      1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                      • wasnt m3W
                        wasnt m3W
                        wasnt m3
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #314

                        There's a place in Butler that rebuilds starters for $40, if you don't feel like buying a new one.

                        m3sig-1.jpg

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                        • Bassboy3313B
                          Bassboy3313B
                          Bassboy3313
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #315

                          I got one with the sedan project, so maybe ill get that one tested and see if its usable. If so, I could swap it into the e21 and get that one rebuilt for the sedan.

                          CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                          • Bassboy3313B
                            Bassboy3313B
                            Bassboy3313
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #316

                            Turns out the wiring connection on the starter from the sedan is completely broken. So looks like I'm in need of 2 starters now. 😕

                            On a side note. Made a front strut brace yesterday.

                            1a8300f61a4c744c4491e3e7af2e866a.jpg

                            f9d56e0e61ed650377d97172292ccfcd.jpg

                            7daf8db824ebfd0b5e2c676789510051.jpg

                            efffa7f5d50c0c682c9e94c1ff817c58.jpg

                            Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                            CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                            • KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRolls
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #317

                              Question for you engineers.

                              When the strut brace is bolted in like that, couldn't the towers still move? I'm sure it's negligible, just curious.

                              The IE bar I have is solid from tower to tower fwiw

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                              • Bassboy3313B
                                Bassboy3313B
                                Bassboy3313
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #318

                                I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them.

                                Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                                CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                                • KaiserRollsK
                                  KaiserRollsK
                                  KaiserRolls
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #319

                                  Bassboy3313 said:

                                  I was thinking of just welding it solid, but would be nervous about it never coming off the strut studs again, lol. It's already a tight squeeze onto the studs for the plates without the bar attached to them.

                                  Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                                  It sometimes helps with install if I jack the car up from the middle of the front subframe and let everything hang lol

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                                  • Bassboy3313B
                                    Bassboy3313B
                                    Bassboy3313
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #320

                                    I believe it may be the push button itself. Hooked remote button to diag port, it cranked. Hooked push button up to diag port, it cranked too. Pushed it again and nothing. Hooked remote button to diag port and it cranks

                                    Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                                    CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                                    • Bassboy3313B
                                      Bassboy3313B
                                      Bassboy3313
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #321

                                      Thanks to Kyle's shop mate Connor, I'll be picking up my new modified rear subframe hopefully this week.

                                      9015eef693192aa65e465b724850cbd3.jpg

                                      85891b3ecd269fdd546fcb0c9bc624b4.jpg

                                      28a244329261efda4b0ee5e58b8cdb15.jpg

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                                      98ced262c39703e65e8698dc547f2159.jpg

                                      daa1f1f9878dcc5b216eb218834b73e4.jpg

                                      Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

                                      CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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                                      1
                                      • B
                                        B
                                        B C
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #322

                                        For anyone not in the know: its so he can sell his unicorn blood e21 LSD for $500 and use a more robust medium case diff.

                                        an elusive S3.46 at that.

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                                        • YoungCRY
                                          YoungCRY
                                          YoungCR
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #323

                                          Sweet! Have a lot of guys done the diff conversion like this?

                                          Chris Young
                                          BMWCCA #458972
                                          1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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