E21 Project Thread - Part 2
-
Did some more idle tuning, but was cut short when I noticed oil dripping bad from under the car. Turns out the exhaust manifold melted a hole in the turbo oil feed line. Time to make a new line and route it differently.
-
Getting closer with my modified dash panel.
I'll post a pic of it when done.
-
-
your updates are riveting.
I live on the edge.
-
It idles extremely well, just needs some road/load tuning (video posted probably wont show for tapatalk users)
-
^^^ so much win!!!
Brian (snap) came over tonight and helped do some idle tuning on the ole Megasquirt. Running way better than it was before. I have a small coolant leak and exhaust leak to tend to, but other than that sounds super smooth and healthy.
-
Finished up the center dash piece. Just have to wire it up in car now.
-
Does the push button start activate the efan when pushed at 13k clicks per minute when the car is stalled mid traffic?
**paging (s)nap
-
Got the center dash push button ignition all wired up, installed and working. No pictures tho unfortunately.
I also picked up a spare e21 rear subframe and an e30 rear subframe from JP to do a little chop surgery. I will be getting a chop/cut/weld operation done to put the e30 diff carrier onto the e21 subframe so that I can upgrade to a stronger e30 lsd instead of the super weak e21 lsd. Like shown below in some reference pics I found over on bf.c
-
Starting surgery on the passenger side floor pan this past weekend. Started off by using an air scraper to get rid of all the sound deadening tar material so I could see the extent of the rust.
It looks bad in the pic, but in reality the rot is a smaller area than I previously thought. Most of the area that looks like "surface rust" in the pic is actually just residue from the tar material.
I then busted out the air saw and started cutting away the rot out to some good solid metal.
Still have some more to cut out. After that I will kill any remaining surface rust with the kbs system, cut my new floor pan to shape and start the rivet process just like the driver side.
-
Finished cutting out the passenger side floor pan and threw down 2 coats of KBS.
Got a piece of 18ga sheet metal from speedy metals, cut and formed it to shape and drilled all the holes for rivets. Using structural panel adhesive I glued the panel in place and riveted it down with my air riveter. Same way I did driver side.
I then went ahead and seam sealed the driver side floor pans on top and underneath.
Thank God for heated garages!!!!
-
Put to use that old Lincoln flux core welder sitting in back of my garage and tried my hand at some tack welding.
Had to weld a new lip onto my front valance in order to mount the group 2 airdam. I had cut off the old lip for a previous airdam. I think it turned out fairly good for flux core. I will be grinding then down smooth, no worries.
Picked up a cheap welding helmet from harbor freight, so naturally I had to customize it with my decals.
I also cut out the stock passenger seat mounts and started making the new ones similar to drivers side.
-
Picked up an S3.46 differential out of an e28 from forum member Jawa yesterday in preparation for the rear subframe modifications. Just need an e30 diff cover if anyone has one to part with.
-
Medium case. E21 came with small case diffs that don't handle much hp, so upgrading to medium case diff is the way to do it.
-
So after 2 months and one mailing address screw up later, my fiberglass hood from Portugal finally arrived.
Would have been nice if they didn't spray expanding foam directly on hood, but whatcha gonna do, right? Just have to rip it off and sand it smooth later on. I am debating on how to secure the hood down now. Whether to do flush hood latches, dzus 1/4 turn fasteners or hell, even bonnet straps. Any suggestions?
I also tore into my new 3.46 lsd to see what I'm working with. Looks like someone's been in it before.
Also found a little friend inside the diff case.
Taking everything apart revealed some decent looking clutches and plates which I am happy about. The bearings seem to have newer red grease applied to them and seals I am not sure about. I will most likely replace the output seals since they should be relatively easy and I'm testing the input seal right now. Snap gave me the idea of filling the diff with a lightweight oil overnight to see if there is any leaking from input seal. If not, then it will definitely withstand the thicker gear oil when used. I am also going to be adding a third clutch and dog ear to raise the locking a bit while I'm in there.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login