1991 318is M62B44 Build
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Even with my subframe out of the car, getting the 4 bolts to line up were a pain in the ass. Maybe buy/install a stud kit?? Other than that, +1 to what snap said.
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just think about the goofy-ass angle that is needed to get the diff out. you need to replicate that to get it back in. also, you might want to try rotating the driveshaft to a new position to change the bolts from an X to a +, for example. can't remember if one arrangement makes it better or not. probably whichever arrangement allows for up/down movement of the rear joint on the driveshaft.
Dan
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^ could even loosen up the CSB if needed. Don't forget the preload when re-tightening
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Whew - So I took two longer bolts and hung the diff by the two rear holes that gave it room to move. Got the front two lined up, then brought the back two up and replaced them with the stock bolts. Was not easy, but I am happy its done. Going to get the driveshaft back on and start working on a few other things.
Big projects right now are:
shortening up the wiring
replacing the whole interior (switching from beige to black)
Redoing the brake lines
Relocating the oil filter housing
Hooking up the power steering
And probably a lot more.
Good news is I know it runs, and with the new diff it will be a lot more fun to drive.
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Good news is I know it runs, and with the new diff it will be a lot more fun to drive.
4.10 with m62? can't wait to see that.
Dan
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oh your post read like you pulled the 2.93 and put back the 4.10, my bad!
Dan
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Rewelded the transmission mount for more strength and ran the wiring through the firewall today to clean things up.
I'm a little confused on the power steering routing...
Basically the routing for me will be:
reservoire -> power steering pump -> rack -> cooler -> reservoire
The smaller bolt on the E30 power steering rack. Is this the pressurized fluid going in or the fluid coming out?
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your routing is correct. not sure if you really need the cooler, though, not all e30s had them. its not particularly hot around here...
from realoem, it looks like
M16 (larger) banjo bolt is on the supply line from the res to the pump
M14 (smaller) banjo bolt (both ends) goes from the pump to the rack
then
M16 (larger) banjo bolt returns from the rack to the res. with the cooler in there for cars that came with it.
Dan
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Well I was able to get creative with some extra lines.
Power steering is hooked up and the oil filter is relocated.
Before picture - notice how cramped (the oil filter) that would be with the brake booster relocation
And now:
Now I am going to redo all the brake lines (in the mail), install the coils and BBK while I am at it.
I got the wiring moved into the interior so that is progress, but it still needs to be cleaned up. Whole interior back in. I'll probably take the motor/trans out to redo the brake lines and clean everything up while its out.
Then throw some miles to work any potential gremlins out, put it up for sale, and start work on the LS M3.
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Awesome work!
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
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Brakes system is done.
Engine and trans are back in.
Headers were ceramic coated and installed.
Cant decide if I should do the coils now so I only have to bleed once or down the road. Other than the height change will installing the new coils/knuckles change the steering to the point where I'll need an immediate alignment?
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