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  4. 02 e39 530i click when turning

02 e39 530i click when turning

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  • MarcKM
    MarcKM
    MarcK
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    This one is getting to me a bit. There is a slight click when I'm turning and the noise increases and decreases with my rate of speed. It's coming from the driver's side front wheel. I feel nothing, just hear that click/tick. I've removed the wheels, used a wire wheel to go over everything lightly and sprayed brake cleaner all over everything. Once I put the wheel back on, no noises for a couple days. Then, the click comes back and starts driving me up the wall again! I just changed the brake pads last weekend to see if that made a difference... none, except how quickly it stops again. This honestly makes no sense to me as I can't find anything rubbing, calipers seem to move very smooth, dust shield is pushed back far enough, etc.

    I'm kinda tired of removing the wheel and putting it back on every few days to get rid of the click. My post is really to see if you guys have any suggestions to what I should check next. 

    I have oversized hubs with hub centric rings. Don't know if the ring could be worn out or not, but I thought that was something I should mention.

    Situations don't make the person, they reveal the person.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • B
      B
      B C
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      Do you have wheel spacers? if so, they may not be installed concentrically and could be bumping the bottom of the caliper

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      0
      • MarcKM
        MarcKM
        MarcK
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        No spacers, everything is stock right now except the rings. I found two possible answers, but one of them doesn't make sense to me. One person said they replaced the sway bar links and the click went away for them. I could buy this one. The other suggestion was wheel bearing. I thought a bearing would make more of a grind or humming sound (?). Is it possible that it's a click from the driver's side wheel bearing?

        *You make a good point. Because I'm rather anal, I want a concentricity gauge to have around just in case now.

        Situations don't make the person, they reveal the person.

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        0
        • jc43089J
          jc43089J
          jc43089
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          Hey Marc, you said it happens when you are turning?  Or all of the time when moving?

          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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          • MarcKM
            MarcKM
            MarcK
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            Only while I'm turning. Once I hit a certain angle, it goes away. Driving straight, it's as smooth and quiet as it's supposed to be. The village is 4 traffic circles long, and that angle is enough to make it click.

            I'm really having a hard time wrapping my head around it being a bearing, but... I've got 145k now so I'll probably do them anyway for piece of mind.

            Situations don't make the person, they reveal the person.

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            0
            • EarlE
              EarlE
              Earl
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              A bearing could make the noise since it is allowing the wheel to tilt during a turn and possibly make contact with something. You could check by simply lifting the car and shaking the wheel, but you know that already=)

              museum sig 2earl.jpg

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              • jc43089J
                jc43089J
                jc43089
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                A wheel bearing is a possibility, did you check for movement/looseness of the wheel with it off of the ground?

                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                0
                • MarcKM
                  MarcKM
                  MarcK
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  I did check for movement, but didn't feel enough of anything to get my attention. If it is the hub, my guess is that this is so early it hasn't started moving much yet.

                  I'll be replacing the hub/bearings next weekend. I'll report back either way.

                  *I'm actually doing the hubs/bearings on my wife's Pathfinder this weekend. The hub movement is very obvious on that thing.

                  Situations don't make the person, they reveal the person.

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                  0
                  • jc43089J
                    jc43089J
                    jc43089
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    Any movement is not good, It should not have any play.  I usually try to rock it from 12/6 o clock, rather than 3/9 o clock which would better check for tie rod/steering rack issues.

                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • MarcKM
                      MarcKM
                      MarcK
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      Just an update: Replaced the hub rings shortly after my last post, and the click has not come back yet. I can only hope it was that simple. I'll report back if anything changes.

                      Situations don't make the person, they reveal the person.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • jc43089J
                        jc43089J
                        jc43089
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        Interesting, I'm not sure how what would cause a noise unless the wheel was loose enough to be moving on the hub.  If it comes back just check the lugs for tightness without removing the wheel and see if it goes away again.

                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • I love my E39I
                          I love my E39I
                          I love my E39
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #12

                          Let me know how the hub replacement goes my wheel bearing has been shot for a while. I will probably just take mine to the shop but still would like to know how it goes

                          Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

                          -Because Racecar-

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                          0
                          • MarcKM
                            MarcKM
                            MarcK
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #13

                            Hub bearing being replaced for no reason other than piece of mind probably in the next couple weeks (still spending my wknds fixing our pathfinder). If I don't see a previously posted thread about the hub/bearings, I'll post some pics and instructions, and any problems I run into. Thx guys!

                            BTW... still no noise. No idea how that ring could have MUCH to do with it, but I'll take it at this point!

                            Situations don't make the person, they reveal the person.

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                            0
                            • I love my E39I
                              I love my E39I
                              I love my E39
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #14

                              Looking forward to the walkthrough. My upper rad house just went out. I knew I should if replaced it when I had the tensioners and pulley and clutch fan... lesson learned again.. now I have to drive the rally wagon with bad brakes...

                              Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

                              -Because Racecar-

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