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  4. TehRaydarlover's AWD lover

TehRaydarlover's AWD lover

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • Bassboy3313B
    Bassboy3313B
    Bassboy3313
    wrote on last edited by
    #61

    I am so pumped for this project! Looking good so far!

    CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • TehRaydarloverT
      TehRaydarloverT
      TehRaydarlover
      wrote on last edited by
      #62

      Not sure how many of you are ix freaks but I got these a few days ago. They are ix specific front mud flaps... its kinda a big deal.

      10700308102058115078733625357170620583

      10005821102058115377541097224224728225

      15985581020581153935414955487336942503

      Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #63

        Id rock those in winter mode if i drove it in winter. Did you permanently abort the bracketry or will you weld up a new one?

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        • TehRaydarloverT
          TehRaydarloverT
          TehRaydarlover
          wrote on last edited by
          #64

          Looking at them I believe the brackets are the same as the readily available rwd brackets sooo hopefully disaster averted.. if not I'll invest in some tin snips and make use of all of these soup cans I have laying around my computer desk.  :P

          Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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          • TehRaydarloverT
            TehRaydarloverT
            TehRaydarlover
            wrote on last edited by
            #65

            But srrussly these are stupid rare. I did a 3D scan of them at work today. Hopefully make some replicas.

            15049571020585834052414923291994374632

            Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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            • JdesignJ
              JdesignJ
              Jdesign
              wrote on last edited by
              #66

              Awesome! What did you use to scan them and how do you plan on making the replicas? Silicone? SLA? Photopolymer?

              SumBunny.jpg

              https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

              🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
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              ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
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              • jc43089J
                jc43089J
                jc43089
                wrote on last edited by
                #67

                How thin is the bracket?  Should be able to use glass bead blast to clean them up without damaging even thin metal then repaint.

                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                • R
                  R
                  Rowleym
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #68

                  YES! do you guys have a faro arm scanner?!?!?! I might have to get a 24v head scanned!

                  96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                  sk8 or die

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • TehRaydarloverT
                    TehRaydarloverT
                    TehRaydarlover
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #69

                    Jdesign said:

                    Awesome! What did you use to scan them and how do you plan on making the replicas? Silicone? SLA? Photopolymer? 

                    We used the Romer arm. I'm thinking once the scan is done and cleaned up cnc cut the master molds in aluminum then a injection mold. Not sure what material to use yet, haven't been able to do much research. The stuff is actually quite hard I would guess around 75A. I guess I'm open to suggestions on the material.

                    jc43089 said:

                    How thin is the bracket?  Should be able to use glass bead blast to clean them up without damaging even thin metal then repaint.

                    You can't really tell in the picture but they are pretty much shot, one is almost completely rusted through. If I can get them for a reasonable price I would like to just use rwd mounting brackets and modify them if needed.

                    Rowleym said:

                    YES! do you guys have a faro arm scanner?!?!?! I might have to get a 24v head scanned! 

                    We used a Romer arm for this but we also have a few long range 3D scanners. Ha 12v head scanning will get priority :P

                    Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #70

                      Just a quick thought but they may not always have been as hard as they are now.

                      Sent from my potato phone

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • B
                        B
                        B C
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #71

                        M20 cylinder head scan for cfd analysis plz

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • TehRaydarloverT
                          TehRaydarloverT
                          TehRaydarlover
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #72

                          jc43089 said:

                          Just a quick thought but they may not always have been as hard as they are now. Sent from my potato phone

                          True, they seem about as hard as the rwd ones I have now, similar to like a boot soul.

                          Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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                          • TehRaydarloverT
                            TehRaydarloverT
                            TehRaydarlover
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #73

                            Hey guys happy thanksgiving, here’s an update on the front diff project I’m working on.
                            20140902140536zps79efb637.jpg
                            The idea is to cut the walls of the pumpkin off one diff and weld them to another thus adding two more spider gears, basically sacrificing one diff to reinforce another. This will help to lessen the load on each gear. With adding the two more spider gears I need to cut the shaft the gears ride on in half and machine a support block to hold the free ends of the shafts. I took a few measurements and had the support block machined out of a “tool steel” I’m not exactly sure what type of steel it’s made out of, I got the material when I was at school, it was just advertised as tool steel.

                            Capturezps45e63424.png

                            The support block came out quite nicely. I was a little upset after having to wait about two months to get it back when the machine shop forgot about my order and temporarily lost the material I gave them, but when I did get it back it was no charge because of the wait, I was like, wat? Oh alright, thanks! haha

                            20141121121736zps8b9252da.jpg

                            Alright easy stuff done, now for the complicated part. My plan is to bolt the crown gear back on and weld the sides of the pumpkin to the crown gear. Then cut off the top and bottom of the pumpkin. In my mind, the geometry of the additional spider gears is critical; you must retain the original gear fitment/lash or you will have increased wear and ultimately failure. By welding the sides of the pumpkin to the crown gear I can then (after some shaping/grinding) bolt the crown gear onto another diff, keeping the cups that the spider gears ride on in the correct position.
                            Now for the welding. The plan is to grind and shape the sides of the diff so everything bolts up without any interference. Then with the crown gear bolted to the diff tack weld the additional sides from the old diff to the new diff. Then cut the tack welds off of the crown gear and remove it. Then finish welding.
                            To ensure a good weld I need to know what material the diff is made of and come up with a weld procedure. To determine what kind of steel I’m dealing with I shot it with our Niton XRF Analyzer at work. It came back as 1215 carbon steel. This is kind of bad news because while 1215 has excellent machinability it doesn’t have very good weldability due to a high sulphur content. I don’t think it will be too much of an issue because it won’t take too much to hold the sides in there and the weld isn’t going to be seeing too much of a load, its mostly just holding the sides on there. We have some extremely skilled welders at work that I’m sure are more than capable of getting the job done. Here’s the print out from the XRF Analyzer if anyone is interested  

                            SCAN0045zps35bf63c6.jpg

                            After everything is welded up I would like to have it sent out for stress relieving but I don’t think it would be a good idea because I don’t want to mess with the gear heat treat or that it will distort or crack the case. Once its welded I may need to skim cut the crown gear fit turn on the diff to clean up any excess weld. Then it’s just a matter of pressing on some new bearings and resealing it, then I should be good to go.

                            Any input is welcome,
                            Ray

                            Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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                            • EarlE
                              EarlE
                              Earl
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #74

                              That's some great work and research so far=) We have a Niton XRF Analyzer at work as well. Which model do you guys have? They're awesome pieces of equipment

                              museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                              • TehRaydarloverT
                                TehRaydarloverT
                                TehRaydarlover
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #75

                                Thanks, not sure what model it is, I can check on monday.

                                Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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                                • bfraser30B
                                  bfraser30B
                                  bfraser30
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #76

                                  This is awesome stuff! I'll have plenty of questions for you when I get to this point on my iX. Very interested in how your mudflap project works out.

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                                  • TehRaydarloverT
                                    TehRaydarloverT
                                    TehRaydarlover
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #77

                                    Anytime! Depending on where your located, if you ever need help working on it hit me up.

                                    Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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                                    • R
                                      R
                                      Rowleym
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #78

                                      So is this all done to simply increase the strength of the front diff?

                                      Awesome project, and I like that analyzer.

                                      I'm sure you know this, but I would hope you check what kind of tool steel that is? I'm not even sure what it's doing so I can't really comment on how strong it needs to be.

                                      96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                      sk8 or die

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                                      • TehRaydarloverT
                                        TehRaydarloverT
                                        TehRaydarlover
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #79

                                        Yeah that's the goal, should be able to handle pretty much everything I can throw at it when its done. Yeah I was going to shoot it just for fun. I don't think it will see a huge load its mainly just holding the shaft the spider gears ride on. I figured if it is some sort of tool steel it should be nice and hard and hopefully help keep the shafts aligned correctly.

                                        Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

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                                        • TehRaydarloverT
                                          TehRaydarloverT
                                          TehRaydarlover
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #80

                                          Put in my LED fog lights and high beams. Quite the improvement in visibility with the LEDs vs. halogens:

                                          14411941020619639349526213497895023537

                                          Before anyone says anything about the pitting, I already have some cerium oxide on the way haha

                                          10869408102061963937752697839761915444

                                          10900043102062011385738867125327763933

                                          10873339102062011408139421315478049015

                                          Just lows:

                                          10869908102062011424539839089758605405

                                          lows with fogs:

                                          10887433102062011443740311348855342057

                                          Just lows:

                                          10887503102062011482141276478107167608

                                          Lows with fogs:

                                          10854453102062011504941842383934986342

                                          And lows with LED brights:
                                          15562771020620115265423826905601730650

                                          Untitled1zps3446a42f.png

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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