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  4. UUC DSSR?

UUC DSSR?

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved BMW Discussion
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  • R
    R
    Rowleym
    wrote on last edited by
    #15

    I was under the impression the double sear rod was the only needed solution. Need to replace those bushing as well eh? 

    304 stainless why? We don't carry stainless so I would have to order it.

    96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

    sk8 or die

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    0
    • B
      B
      B C
      wrote on last edited by
      #16

      joint.jpg

      Id replace this plastic bushing with a bronze sleeve bushing ^^^ 

      304 because aluminum is too soft and plain carbon steel might rust to the pin that goes through the middle/nobody likes rusty parts

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      0
      • ClassEC
        ClassEC
        ClassE
        wrote on last edited by
        #17

        I could have them zinc coated up by me for cheap. ;)

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        0
        • andyhundleyA
          andyhundleyA
          andyhundley
          wrote on last edited by
          #18

          So should I buy one from UUC? Haha

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          0
          • B
            B
            B C
            wrote on last edited by
            #19

            it was annoying for me seeing how simple of a part it is and that it could be made yourself for less money, but the cost had to be looked at as paying for the convenience of not having to make it. 

            Time is money, money is time, and there is never enough of either of them.

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            0
            • wasnt m3W
              wasnt m3W
              wasnt m3
              wrote on last edited by
              #20

              I'd be interested in on for my m3. Planned on installing a new shifter soon.

              m3sig-1.jpg

              1 Reply Last reply
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              • Bassboy3313B
                Bassboy3313B
                Bassboy3313
                wrote on last edited by
                #21

                Snap said:

                Time is money, money is time, and there is never enough of either of them. 

                Amen brother!

                CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • andyhundleyA
                  andyhundleyA
                  andyhundley
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #22

                  Would anybody know if the selector joint is different between getrag 260 from an 87 to a 89?

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                  0
                  • jc43089J
                    jc43089J
                    jc43089
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #23

                    I have one on my 94 325i.  It is fantastic.  The key to how it works is the inside of the forked part is a very tight fit over the bottom of the shifter and the joint on the trans, that is what eliminates the play.  Also measure center to center of the pins on the stock one.  There are many different lengths, mine was one that Rob at UUC had never seen before.

                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                    • The Full BananaT
                      The Full BananaT
                      The Full Banana
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #24

                      Rowley, wanna make a custom length one for the getrag 265 in my 242? PM me!!!

                      Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

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                      • andyhundleyA
                        andyhundleyA
                        andyhundley
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #25

                        so i think my trans is out of an 87 and from what ive read, i need to swap the selector joint from a 89+ g260 to have the UUC DSSR to work on my car. If anybody has any knowledge or experience on this, please feel free to chime in. my car is about to come out and play from hibernation and i would like this to go as smooth as possible.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • B
                          B
                          B C
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #26

                          get this tool for the bish clip if you are changing the bushings with the trans in the car

                          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=143787

                          24o6npt.jpg

                          b8pphv.gif

                          It really is the biggest pile of dung in the world to undo otherwise.

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                          0
                          • R
                            R
                            Rowleym
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #27

                            Oh jeez. There are a lot of different lengths? I'm guessing e36 has two options as well?

                            96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                            sk8 or die

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                            0
                            • B
                              B
                              B C
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #28

                              make it adjustable length with a fine pitch threaded stud in the middle and jam nuts.

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                              0
                              • wasnt m3W
                                wasnt m3W
                                wasnt m3
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #29

                                I would need a 198mm

                                m3sig-1.jpg

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                                0
                                • andyhundleyA
                                  andyhundleyA
                                  andyhundley
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #30

                                  I bought a IE catback so I might as well just drop the driveshaft/exhaust to make everything easier to get to since I have to swap the selector joint from a 89+ g260. I'll post pics when I tackle this little project. Thanks for the input guys. Also Rowleym, I hope to see your final product if you go through with it.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • R
                                    R
                                    Rowleym
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #31

                                    Snap said:

                                    make it adjustable length with a fine pitch threaded stud in the middle and jam nuts. 

                                    This sounds like a good idea. Would that make it a pain though? Or do you just take out your stock one, adjust to length, put it in?

                                    96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                    sk8 or die

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                                    • EarlE
                                      EarlE
                                      Earl
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #32

                                      You would just adjust it to the length the one you are removing is=) You could even shorten or lengthen it to see what effects it has. It would make sense to see what the shortest one anyone would need is and then what the longest one is and make it work within that range.

                                      museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                                      0
                                      • R
                                        R
                                        REKIII
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #33

                                        A potential bad thing about it being adjustable is the fact that it transfers rotational force.  Any adjustment would be rotational (threaded rods, jam nuts, etc).  Therefore this adjustment could potentionally loosen and cause failure, or at a minumum horrible perfromance.

                                        Yes, if it's thightened, you should be fine, however it is just a bad idea on a part like that.

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                                        0
                                        • B
                                          B
                                          B C
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #34

                                          Yes, Robert is right, this occurred to me last night and now am against the idea of that kind of adjustability. 

                                          It would really suck to not be able to get into 1st and 2nd gear all of the sudden.

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