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  4. UUC DSSR?

UUC DSSR?

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved BMW Discussion
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  • B
    B
    B C
    wrote on last edited by
    #14

    I would say 304 stainless, and use oil-impregnated bronze sleeve bearings in place of bushings.

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    • R
      R
      Rowleym
      wrote on last edited by
      #15

      I was under the impression the double sear rod was the only needed solution. Need to replace those bushing as well eh? 

      304 stainless why? We don't carry stainless so I would have to order it.

      96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

      sk8 or die

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      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #16

        joint.jpg

        Id replace this plastic bushing with a bronze sleeve bushing ^^^ 

        304 because aluminum is too soft and plain carbon steel might rust to the pin that goes through the middle/nobody likes rusty parts

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        0
        • ClassEC
          ClassEC
          ClassE
          wrote on last edited by
          #17

          I could have them zinc coated up by me for cheap. ;)

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • andyhundleyA
            andyhundleyA
            andyhundley
            wrote on last edited by
            #18

            So should I buy one from UUC? Haha

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            0
            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #19

              it was annoying for me seeing how simple of a part it is and that it could be made yourself for less money, but the cost had to be looked at as paying for the convenience of not having to make it. 

              Time is money, money is time, and there is never enough of either of them.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • wasnt m3W
                wasnt m3W
                wasnt m3
                wrote on last edited by
                #20

                I'd be interested in on for my m3. Planned on installing a new shifter soon.

                m3sig-1.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • Bassboy3313B
                  Bassboy3313B
                  Bassboy3313
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #21

                  Snap said:

                  Time is money, money is time, and there is never enough of either of them. 

                  Amen brother!

                  CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • andyhundleyA
                    andyhundleyA
                    andyhundley
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #22

                    Would anybody know if the selector joint is different between getrag 260 from an 87 to a 89?

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                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #23

                      I have one on my 94 325i.  It is fantastic.  The key to how it works is the inside of the forked part is a very tight fit over the bottom of the shifter and the joint on the trans, that is what eliminates the play.  Also measure center to center of the pins on the stock one.  There are many different lengths, mine was one that Rob at UUC had never seen before.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                      • The Full BananaT
                        The Full BananaT
                        The Full Banana
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #24

                        Rowley, wanna make a custom length one for the getrag 265 in my 242? PM me!!!

                        Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

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                        • andyhundleyA
                          andyhundleyA
                          andyhundley
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #25

                          so i think my trans is out of an 87 and from what ive read, i need to swap the selector joint from a 89+ g260 to have the UUC DSSR to work on my car. If anybody has any knowledge or experience on this, please feel free to chime in. my car is about to come out and play from hibernation and i would like this to go as smooth as possible.

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                          0
                          • B
                            B
                            B C
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #26

                            get this tool for the bish clip if you are changing the bushings with the trans in the car

                            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=143787

                            24o6npt.jpg

                            b8pphv.gif

                            It really is the biggest pile of dung in the world to undo otherwise.

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                            • R
                              R
                              Rowleym
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #27

                              Oh jeez. There are a lot of different lengths? I'm guessing e36 has two options as well?

                              96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                              sk8 or die

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                              • B
                                B
                                B C
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #28

                                make it adjustable length with a fine pitch threaded stud in the middle and jam nuts.

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                                • wasnt m3W
                                  wasnt m3W
                                  wasnt m3
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #29

                                  I would need a 198mm

                                  m3sig-1.jpg

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                                  0
                                  • andyhundleyA
                                    andyhundleyA
                                    andyhundley
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #30

                                    I bought a IE catback so I might as well just drop the driveshaft/exhaust to make everything easier to get to since I have to swap the selector joint from a 89+ g260. I'll post pics when I tackle this little project. Thanks for the input guys. Also Rowleym, I hope to see your final product if you go through with it.

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                                    • R
                                      R
                                      Rowleym
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #31

                                      Snap said:

                                      make it adjustable length with a fine pitch threaded stud in the middle and jam nuts. 

                                      This sounds like a good idea. Would that make it a pain though? Or do you just take out your stock one, adjust to length, put it in?

                                      96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                      sk8 or die

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                                      • EarlE
                                        EarlE
                                        Earl
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #32

                                        You would just adjust it to the length the one you are removing is=) You could even shorten or lengthen it to see what effects it has. It would make sense to see what the shortest one anyone would need is and then what the longest one is and make it work within that range.

                                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                                        • R
                                          R
                                          REKIII
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #33

                                          A potential bad thing about it being adjustable is the fact that it transfers rotational force.  Any adjustment would be rotational (threaded rods, jam nuts, etc).  Therefore this adjustment could potentionally loosen and cause failure, or at a minumum horrible perfromance.

                                          Yes, if it's thightened, you should be fine, however it is just a bad idea on a part like that.

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