1JZ E30 Vert Build Thread with Pastry filled wheels
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This is awesome! The work looks great!
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This is awesome! The work looks great!
Thanks Man!!!
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Time for some more updates. As some of you know, the car is running and driving now! There are a few things I still need to address, but I will certainly get to them.
Here is the throttle bracket I made. I needed to modify the cable on the firewall side but managed to not take any pictures.
The next big step was wiring. Since the harness I had was cut up, it was decided that we strip out all the things that weren't needed and start fresh. Chubs did all the wiring as I worked on the cooling system. He's wired this swap in Jakes e46 so I had faith in his knowledge.
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I should probably stop by sometime soon and see this beast in person. Nice work!
Uhhhhh, yeah, or I can stop by you. Lmk
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Using -16 AN fittings I sized, and then resized the coolant hoses for the radiator. The upper outlet needed one sensor for the 1jz coolant temp (this sensor controls idle and tune) and one BMW sensor for the factory temp gauge on the dash.
The space needed for the sensors, and the distance for the hoses was extremely close and it made for a really tricky install.
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My posts are random and Kind of all over the place but I am just kind of adding from pictures I have in my phone. I found these cans online for a killer deal. $35 each. Coolant overflow, PD reservoir, and a nice catch can(which I need badly due to the valve covers that came on this motor have no baffles in them). I need to make or buy some.
This is a hilarious, yet not so hilarious spoiler. I bought this wing a few years back and was always to much of a wuss to drill into my trunk too mount it. Well...... when we had my car on the lift in Chubs shop, you can only lift a car when the garage door is closed(obvious interference issues) Well, Chubs hearing isnt the best, and I wasnt paying attention but we manged to lift the car into the garage door completely twisting the door and bending the frame. My car on the other hand only suffered minor injuries..a small scratch no bigger than a nickel. I had just the solution to cover up our mishap......

Wide band and digital boost gauges installed. The third hole will have a Oil pressure gauge to match once I order one. For now its ghetto access to my phone charger.
IAT sensor!!!! This is kind of an important part. Right now I have been driving the car and it has no idea what the intake temp is. Idle is all over and its prolly affecting my fuel ratio as well. I had to order one of these because I lost mine. Oddly enough, this little bugger is nearly impossible to find. Its very uncommon for them to fail, and its not compatible with any other motor or car. I was lucky that there was one on ebay.
My downstar! Intake manifold mod. I needed to plug the hole in the intake manifold for my missing IAT, so until now, this is what I had in its place. sadly I have an IAT now so this crusty addition will be removed.
YASSSSSS!!! I was waiting to get this over a month before I even started my car. I have been having a misfire and really bad breakup problems and I have reason to believe this will be the solution. I have a large Walbro fuel pump (255) and a stock regulator. The car is running extremely rich to the point I was starting to worry I might be washing the cylinders. Although I dont have a gauge on the stock rail and regulator, I am certain the pressure is through the roof. I came to this consensus one day when I had the pump running but the car was off. When I went to start the car, tons of unburnt fuel came through the exhaust. This leads me to believe the the pressure is being built up so high that fuel is pushing past the injectors. I read online where there was another guy with a 1jz in a supra and he had the exact same issues as me and was running a larger than stock fuel pump on a stock regulator.
I happened across one of these in a local salvage yard. The drivers side is the one I found as you can tell its not for a projector headlight assembly. I had to cut a hole in it, but it looks alot better than the back of the ellipsoids.
On the passenger side you can see there is a bulge for the back of the projector headlight.
I really need to put this ugly battery in the trunk. I have since painted it black because its a giant eyesore, but its a brand new Northstar battery and I got it for a great price. If anyone needs a battery, I know a guy.
Ha! more randomness, but I had some extra time after work so I started sketching my car. I will upload a better revision of it later once I get further along. I am thinking of having prints made if anyone is interested.
I picked these up last week. I got a tip from a fellow member on here. I wont give away his name but it rhymes with pearl. I hope to have tires on them this week so I can take the cheap Varostones or whatever they are off of my car and put them back on my civic.
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And to think that I once thought that you had good taste...gross.
You must be referring to the blue and grey battery. Don't worry, I painted it!

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Looks like the exact same FPR I'm running.... Which was leaking internally (out the vacuum port) and back filled the entire vacuum manifold and all the lines... Which then started filling the intake runners.
I thought it was a leaking injector.

Great, just great.
This is my biggest issue right now from making this thing rip, and then you tell me this. Were you able to fix it or did you have to get a new one? Any advice would be great.... -
Great, just great.
This is my biggest issue right now from making this thing rip, and then you tell me this. Were you able to fix it or did you have to get a new one? Any advice would be great....Called Aeromotive to order - ended up talking to Brett their tech director - they sent me one for free to repair. Piece of cake to replace.
Unscrew the big top Allen screw as much as possible to relieve pressure on the internal spring. Take the 4 screws off to remove the top portion - the diaphragm is sandwiched between the top/bottom piece - replace and reassemble (take note of internal top/bottom cap orientation). There are YouTube videos to show how as well.
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Almost have everything I need for the fuel system. I will probably need more fuel line as I only have those two small sections. This time I bought fittings online and they came surprisingly fast and were 1/3rd of the cost at Behlings and Pegasus. They do feel a little cheaper, but I cant see how they would fail any different than what I would have got elsewhere. I did realize something kind of important though..... the OEM injectors and fuel rail are side feed. This means I cannot use this rail, or I have to buy new injectors. URGGGH.
I also happened across a rebuild kit for my turbo. $65 later, its in my hand. What a deal!
I also ordered a 4" 45 degree silicon coupler so I can run a filter. Not sure how well this coupler is going to work out as its just an eBay special. Its really soft and I assume its just going to get sucked shut or something. I guess we will see. I also picked up a UPGR8 filter. I read some reviews and it seems to be a nice filter I guess we will see how that works out as well. The third pic is just a velocity stack I ordered while I was at it. I might try and make this into a filter in the future.
*also note my battery is no longer blue and I started mounting the coolant overflow tank**
Mr. Young tossed me these hub caps when I was at his shop awhile back and I was just messing around and set them inside my rims. Kinda of a different look. what do you guys think?
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Side Note after dealing with my fuel issues - adding a dial gauge on the FPR was the best money I've spent in a long time. Can't tell you how I would have figured out my issue without it.
I would have to agree with you. Having a gauge is almost a necessity.
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Recently was going back over the list of stuff I have done, and all the stuff I bought. There's some odds and ends I have yet to get or finish but the list is pretty mild from what I was thinking it would be. Right now the fuel system is all torn apart so I figured a nice recap to see if I can waste anymore money and time was needed. LOL
Motor mounts- Used stock M20 mounts and modified them
Inter cooler mount – steel “L” brackets welded to the core support

Oil cooler mount – Mounts to the top of the Intercooler (not yet installed)
Exhaust – Custom 3” turbo back
Ic piping – Custom 2.5” aluminum
Driveshaft – Custom modified stock E30 shaft and U-joints then used the R154 yoke
Shifter – Stock R154 fit perfect
Brake lines - Custom Steel lines
Master cylinder – 1978 Honda civic
Bias valve- I forgot what brand this is, but I do have one
Coolant tubes – Cut and modified Heater tube
Coolant lines - -16 AN lines and Stainless braided hose
Coolant sensors – Welded bungs from Pegasus and used one 1JZ sensor for tunning and one BMW sensor for the coolant temp gauge
Radiator mount- Stock hole with rubber grommet
Cut valance and Bumper for front mount -This was hard for me to do (mentally)
Trim seam welds under fenders- Not done

Engine harness – Used A chopped up harness and made it work adding and subtracting for what was needed
Port turbo – Used a die grinder and blended the split exhaust flange to mend smoothly with the T4 manifold I had
Turbo flange - Modified a cheap ebay T4 manifold and Modified an Exhaust flange for the Downpipe
Support for turbo manifold - welded ½ stainless rod from all the corners of the T4 flange to the manifold head flange
Wastegate dump -Chopped off the square flange and welded a two bolt flange for the Delta gate II
Mount rear wing – VHB’d the shit out of an OEM wing
Turbo feed – made a custom -8AN?
Turbo return made a custom -12AN? return
Bov mount -Blitz Super sound mounted near Throttle body
Oil level unit- Still needs to be wired in
Igniter location – Located in the glove box right beside the ECU
Trans mount – Modified the stock trans mount arm to work with the R154 stock mount.
Clutch door covers – Made from stainless sheet stock and rubber edging
Slave cylinder – used the stock master with the reservoir relocated to the cowl drain tray, then made a custom line to work with the aftermarket R154 Slave
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