1978 e21 m20 turbo swap, AKA What did I get myself into
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And then there's me with my e28 I had a simple plan and stuck with it
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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So I ordered new flywheel bolts and didn't realize that the single mass flywheel uses the same bolts as the automatic, just so you know and don't spend 30 bucks on them like I did, you will have them because the engine from mike was hooked to an auto. If you end up using a dual mass flywheel setup I have a set of the longer bolts for that that you can have too.
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The flywheel bolts are one-time use so dont feel bad about getting new ones
Only because they come with loctite preapplied right? They aren't stretch bolts as far as I am aware, I could be wrong on that though.
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You may be correct, the Bentley manual doesn't specifically say they whether they are torque-to-yield or not, but they do specify to use new bolts in section 4-58.
Im sure plenty of people have re-used them without issue but boy wouldn't that really blow to have to tear it all back apart within a few hours/days of doing a trans+clutch job.
Bassboy had a 240sx that had something similar happen.
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I have reused them before, not saying that I am right though, I have seen that in the manual as well. I assumed they are not TTY because it is a straight torque spec rather than torque then degrees like the head/ rod cap bolts. Bentley also says not to reuse the bolts that hold the axle shafts to the differential. Previously I just degreased them and put a little red loctite on them, It also needs the loctite to seal up or it can leak oil because the holes go all of the way through the crank flange.
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If you want to throw those 2.0L pistons, rods & crank my way I will gladly get them out of the way for you.
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If you want to throw those 2.0L pistons, rods & crank my way I will gladly get them out of the way for you.
I was going to weld them up into a table or something.
I'll trade you for those decals
email me your shirt files too and I can get started on them.Update: all glass except the door windows are out, I think I've found all the rust holes that need to be fixed, the main debate now is patch or replace...
There are some significant holes in the front fenders and new rockers are pretty much a given.
I need to shuffle money around to get the 2.7 from Mike, I really hate getting paid once a month...
My shop mates are making a run to steel mart so I should have some sheet steel to practice welding and making patches.
I'll need to get a lesson in POR15 from Mr. Menard as well
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I was going to weld them up into a table or something.
I'll trade you for those decals
email me your shirt files too and I can get started on them.Sounds good! I will send them to your email.
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Just brush it on! it self levels pretty nice, I use KBS Rustseal, available at Napa. Similar product, some have said it's better, I just use it because it's easy to get and extremely durable.
I used nothing but KBS rust seal on my project and it is amazing! Cheaper than POR15 too. Never knew Napa carried it. I always ordered it straight from KBS and it would arrive next day most the time.
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Just brush it on! it self levels pretty nice, I use KBS Rustseal, available at Napa. Similar product, some have said it's better, I just use it because it's easy to get and extremely durable.
Sounds good I'll try to get some tonight after work
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I would go with the gloss black, it turns out great, no clearcoat needed unless it will get alot of sun. Don't plan on reusing the brush and it's best to use the whole can, if you have to reclose it then put a piece of plastic on before the lid or it won't come off again.
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I would go with the gloss black, it turns out great, no clearcoat needed unless it will get alot of sun. Don't plan on reusing the brush and it's best to use the whole can, if you have to reclose it then put a piece of plastic on before the lid or it won't come off again.
Yes! Do this! Speaking from experience as is JC I would imagine, lol. Also, wear latex gloves and a long sleeve shirt you dont mind ruining as once this stuff touches your skin it takes weeks to get off. Ask me how I know
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So I started painting the engine bay with the kbs... Completely disregarded the warning on gloves...
Opps...
Also decided that despite being welded to the front valence the fenders need to be replaced and therefore be removed. No dice all the bolts are out and the finders won't budge. Inner fender is coated in a rubberized undercoat of some kind and I think it's holding the fender on. Really hoping that they aren't welded too
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^ I thought it was done from the PO
Thought what was done?
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