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  4. 1978 e21 m20 turbo swap, AKA What did I get myself into

1978 e21 m20 turbo swap, AKA What did I get myself into

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  • B
    B
    B C
    wrote on last edited by
    #75

    The flywheel bolts are one-time use so dont feel bad about getting new ones

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • jc43089J
      jc43089J
      jc43089
      wrote on last edited by
      #76

      Snap said:

      The flywheel bolts are one-time use so dont feel bad about getting new ones

      Only because they come with loctite preapplied right?  They aren't stretch bolts as far as I am aware, I could be wrong on that though.

      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #77

        You may be correct, the Bentley manual doesn't specifically say they whether they are torque-to-yield or not, but they do specify to use new bolts in section 4-58.

        Im sure plenty of people have re-used them without issue but boy wouldn't that really blow to have to tear it all back apart within a few hours/days of doing a trans+clutch job. 

        Bassboy had a 240sx that had something similar happen.

        1 Reply Last reply
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        • jc43089J
          jc43089J
          jc43089
          wrote on last edited by
          #78

          I have reused them before, not saying that I am right though, I have seen that in the manual as well.  I assumed they are not TTY because it is a straight torque spec rather than torque then degrees like the head/ rod cap bolts.  Bentley also says not to reuse the bolts that hold the axle shafts to the differential.  Previously I just degreased them and put a little red loctite on them, It also needs the loctite to seal up or it can leak oil because the holes go all of the way through the crank flange.

          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • YoungCRY
            YoungCRY
            YoungCR
            wrote on last edited by
            #79

            I have been told by technicians not to reuse the flywheel bolts, so the Bentley is correct.

            Chris Young
            BMWCCA #458972
            1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • Bassboy3313B
              Bassboy3313B
              Bassboy3313
              wrote on last edited by
              #80

              If you want to throw those 2.0L pistons, rods & crank my way I will gladly get them out of the way for you. :)

              CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • B
                B
                bfinley
                wrote on last edited by
                #81

                Bassboy3313 said:

                If you want to throw those 2.0L pistons, rods & crank my way I will gladly get them out of the way for you. :)

                I was going to weld them up into a table or something.

                I'll trade you for those decals ;) email me your shirt files too and I can get started on them.

                Update: all glass except the door windows are out, I think I've found all the rust holes that need to be fixed, the main debate now is patch or replace...

                There are some significant holes in the front fenders and new rockers are pretty much a given.

                I need to shuffle money around to get the 2.7 from Mike, I really hate getting paid once a month...

                My shop mates are making a run to steel mart so I should have some sheet steel to practice welding and making patches.

                I'll need to get a lesson in POR15 from Mr. Menard as well

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #82

                  Just brush it on! it self levels pretty nice, I use KBS Rustseal, available at Napa.  Similar product, some have said it's better, I just use it because it's easy to get and extremely durable.

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • Bassboy3313B
                    Bassboy3313B
                    Bassboy3313
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #83

                    bfinley said:

                    I was going to weld them up into a table or something.

                    I'll trade you for those decals ;) email me your shirt files too and I can get started on them.

                    Sounds good! I will send them to your email.

                    Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

                    CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • Bassboy3313B
                      Bassboy3313B
                      Bassboy3313
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #84

                      jc43089 said:

                      Just brush it on! it self levels pretty nice, I use KBS Rustseal, available at Napa.  Similar product, some have said it's better, I just use it because it's easy to get and extremely durable.

                      I used nothing but KBS rust seal on my project and it is amazing! Cheaper than POR15 too. Never knew Napa carried it. I always ordered it straight from KBS and it would arrive next day most the time.

                      Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

                      CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • B
                        B
                        bfinley
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #85

                        jc43089 said:

                        Just brush it on! it self levels pretty nice, I use KBS Rustseal, available at Napa.  Similar product, some have said it's better, I just use it because it's easy to get and extremely durable.

                        Sounds good I'll try to get some tonight after work

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #86

                          I would go with the gloss black, it turns out great, no clearcoat needed unless it will get alot of sun.  Don't plan on reusing the brush and it's best to use the whole can, if you have to reclose it then put a piece of plastic on before the lid or it won't come off again.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • Bassboy3313B
                            Bassboy3313B
                            Bassboy3313
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #87

                            jc43089 said:

                            I would go with the gloss black, it turns out great, no clearcoat needed unless it will get alot of sun.  Don't plan on reusing the brush and it's best to use the whole can, if you have to reclose it then put a piece of plastic on before the lid or it won't come off again.

                            Yes! Do this! Speaking from experience as is JC I would imagine, lol. Also, wear latex gloves and a long sleeve shirt you dont mind ruining as once this stuff touches your skin it takes weeks to get off. Ask me how I know :P

                            CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • B
                              B
                              bfinley
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #88

                              So I started painting the engine bay with the kbs... Completely disregarded the warning on gloves...ezu8eva2.jpg

                              Opps...

                              Also decided that despite being welded to the front valence the fenders need to be replaced and therefore be removed. No dice all the bolts are out and the finders won't budge. Inner fender is coated in a rubberized undercoat of some kind and I think it's holding the fender on. Really hoping that they aren't welded too

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • EarlE
                                EarlE
                                Earl
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #89

                                If they welded them to the bumper, you can count on them being welded on everywhere else=/

                                museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • R
                                  R
                                  Rowleym
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #90

                                  ^ I thought it was done from the PO

                                  96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                  sk8 or die

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • B
                                    B
                                    bfinley
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #91

                                    Rowleym said:

                                    ^ I thought it was done from the PO

                                    Thought what was done?

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • B
                                      B
                                      bfinley
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #92

                                      Went into the shop planning to clean and organize my pile of parts ...

                                      Ended up wrestling the fenders off. Thankfully they were not welded on, just a nasty combo of some kind of gasket paste and rubber under coat...

                                      u8yzy4es.jpguta9aqez.jpgjene6eru.jpg

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                                      0
                                      • B
                                        B
                                        bfinley
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #93

                                        Goodness it's been a while, I've been slowly removing paint and bondo.. Gonna take it down to bare metal and build it back up. I finally got an argon tank for the welder. So after commencement I'll be patching the floors. Picked up a 2.7 eta from mike, full harness and ECU, connected to an auto trans which has already been removed. Fighting with the torque converter though.

                                        so if anyone has an 885 head laying around... I want it

                                        I'll get some pictures over the weekend

                                        Mike and maybe John are going to come down this weekend to help me get the 2.7 eta on a stand, grind down some more paint and pull the dash.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • B
                                          B
                                          bfinley
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #94

                                          4y7yrypy.jpguva9egug.jpg8y7aje4a.jpgpaqy2yzy.jpgperede7y.jpg

                                          Dash is out, brake booster is out, steering column is out, tail lights are out.

                                          Still need to get the heater core.

                                          Finally down to just a shell, going to make a trip to steel mart soon and get the floors patched. Then order the roll cage next month.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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