ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread
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If you keep the M20 carbs would be a unique look. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67286940-NA-M20-with-TK-goodness
If you're going for big power go 24v.
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@DrLeadFoot
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If you keep the M20 carbs would be a unique look. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67286940-NA-M20-with-TK-goodness
If you're going for big power go 24v.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Mention of ditching EFI for carbs and ditching M20 for 24v
all in one post.
I cant handle this.
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If you keep the M20 carbs would be a unique look. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67286940-NA-M20-with-TK-goodness
If you're going for big power go 24v.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Mention of ditching EFI for carbs and ditching M20 for 24v
all in one post.
I cant handle this.
Haha. That post has Snap written all over it!
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@DrLeadFoot
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He means a runner angle like this:
Which would work best for NA if you can clear the booster (or delete it). Longer runners will give more torque in lower RPMs.
I love this idea - I'm not sure it's a "whack it up and weld" kinda job - but I don't know your fab skills either. Regardless - if I stay M20 this is most likely course of action in fall!
If Anyone has a CAD drawing of an m20 manifold flange, I could CNC a flange, and not use the stock stuff at all, but then I would also have to build injector bungs, and then it starts getting costy(for you guys).
I was going to use the stock manifold, and cut the flange, to try and keep the cost low for the people. And its damn easy.
But I do have material for 3 Intake manifolds for supercharged m50's currently
I am adapting a gen 3 eaton m90 to 24v's, but I am also thinking about doing it to an e30
But I do not have velocity stacks yet(wasn't going to use them with the supercharger) and I don't have those little bends.
But why did you say 130* snap?
sk8 or die
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But why did you say 130* snap?
I was laying on my side while I posted that, now that I am right-side up, it would be more of a 60-70 degree bend.
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Started replacing front tie rods last night - didn't know BMW used a lock plate to hold the inner tie rods.... Which apparently needs to be replaced since you ruin them removing the originals.
So dealership will have some for me tomorrow - car sits until then.
So no alignment before Saturday. No happy about it - but not super concerned either. Rear toe looks good, car tracks straight, camber is alittle off side-to-side but not enough to worry me for 200 miles.After the GTG.... Time for some painting and coating in the bay before Scooters.
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E36/Z3 does not use lock plates.
I just used blue loctite on my Z3 rack and have had zero problems with it.
Ask anyone about what a sane and gentle driver I am and you will take comfort in knowing its kosher
My compact uses them
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG53&mospid=47505&btnr=32_0630&hg=32&fg=25
It also looks like other e36's use them
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG13&mospid=47485&btnr=32_0630&hg=32&fg=25
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None on the Z3 though
[http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CJ33&mospid=48094&btnr=32\_0630&hg=32&fg=25
I](http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CJ33&mospid=48094&btnr=32_0630&hg=32&fg=25) am using E30 tie rods with the Z3 rack, there is nothing special about the Z3 rack that would aid in tie-rod retention.
The primary reason for the lock plate from my own observation is to keep the inner tie rod from loosening during an alignment.
But take what I say as typical forum hearsay, I was not present in the ZF steering rack design meetings to be able to know the exact reasons why.
Im not from here.
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Earl and snap are going to fight to the death Saturday morning!
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