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  4. ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

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  • andyhundleyA
    andyhundleyA
    andyhundley
    wrote on last edited by
    #165

    ive bought a few sets of 512's but i couldnt get more than 10k miles out of them with rotating them frequently and everything properly aligned… but at $45 a tire, who can really complain. haha

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • ClassEC
      ClassEC
      ClassE
      wrote on last edited by
      #166

      Why can't it be NEXT Friday already..... ;)

      6AD6DDE9-8022-44F9-A25D-C2013B181173.jpg

      1 Reply Last reply
      4
      • The Full BananaT
        The Full BananaT
        The Full Banana
        wrote on last edited by
        #167

        Those wheels with properly sized tires on that car... that's going to be awesome!

        Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • ClassEC
          ClassEC
          ClassE
          wrote on last edited by
          #168

          All depends on what you consider "proper" tires. :P

          I'm shooting for that as the final ride height once finished. Hoping to be very similar in height and offset to my old white car:

          7121AF06-62C4-4F21-B992-02DF7995D651-108

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          • The Full BananaT
            The Full BananaT
            The Full Banana
            wrote on last edited by
            #169

            Well, 2 out of 3 isn't bad. :P  I guess I somehow missed the post where you said 205. Car looks great!

            Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #170

              wow, those wheels are awesome! they are like a Hartge design with a lip.

              Proper sized tires would be 235's or 245's on a 9" wide wheel IMO. 

              I may try 255's 
              I have 205's now that came on my authentic STR wheels (not fake STR's) 

              #allforlooks

              #eurohatch
              #f***yourfakewheels
              #stretchedbutthoal

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • EarlE
                EarlE
                Earl
                wrote on last edited by
                #171

                #eurohatch.............someone has seen my instagram=)

                museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                • ClassEC
                  ClassEC
                  ClassE
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #172

                  I was looking for your stuff on Instagram the other day Earl but couldn't find anything under your obvious hashtags.

                  #nevergonnabedone #takeapartandneverreassemble #rollinhardin2018

                  :P

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                  • ClassEC
                    ClassEC
                    ClassE
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #173

                    Without fender flares tho on a 9" wheel in front - the offset needs to be low enough to clear the coils (ET10ish). That width and offset + 235/245-anything will never fit under the stock fenders (without 4x4 height).

                    I know the stretch/low isn't for everyone - but it is my preference.

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                    • wasnt m3W
                      wasnt m3W
                      wasnt m3
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #174

                      I like the wheel choice! Car is going to be stunning!

                      m3sig-1.jpg

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                      • KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRolls
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #175

                        Even if people are into different stuff. Anyone who calls himself a car guy can respect the time and effort put into a project.

                        Looks good man. Can't wait to see it in person.

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #176

                          KaiserRolls said:

                          Even if people are into different stuff. Anyone who calls himself a car guy can respect the time and effort put into a project. Looks good man. Can't wait to see it in person.

                          Troof!  Not my taste with the stretched tires, but the wheels look awesome!

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
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                          • ClassEC
                            ClassEC
                            ClassE
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #177

                            Thanks guys! I'm just anxious to get it back together and get in some wheel time! I'm not doing nearly as much cleaning and coating to everything as I wanted - but given the compressed timeline before good weather *should* be arriving... I'm okay with it.

                            Now I just can't wait to get the wheels back with the centers colormatched - and the shaved centercaps!!!

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                            • ClassEC
                              ClassEC
                              ClassE
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #178

                              Anyone on here knowledgable on E30 rear subframe and suspension geometry? I've got questions regarding subframe bushings and their affects on toe/camber....

                              1 Reply Last reply
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                              • DrLeadFootD
                                DrLeadFootD
                                DrLeadFoot
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #179

                                ClassE said:

                                Anyone on here knowledgable on E30 rear subframe and suspension geometry? I've got questions regarding subframe bushings and their affects on toe/camber....

                                Are you interested in the condor speed shop 12mm risers?

                                Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

                                15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                                     @DrLeadFoot

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                                • m42b32M
                                  m42b32M
                                  m42b32
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #180

                                  This car is going to be absolutely gorgeous, I love those wheels, they look like OZ turbos!

                                  1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                                  • ClassEC
                                    ClassEC
                                    ClassE
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #181

                                    Thanks - They are essentially a 1-piece "remake" (knockoff) of OZ Turbos.

                                    Here's my dilemma: went to install the subframe and the camber adjustments plates are hitting the under side of the body. I kinda went overkill and installed the subframe riser AND the weld in camber adjustments - I believe the risers are causing the weld-in adjustments to hit because they're now 12mm higher. Here's my options:

                                    -Buy the "standard" height subframe bushings and hope everything fits.

                                    -Cut off the tops of the existing weld-in camber adjustment plates

                                    -"Flip" the existing subframe riser bushings and reinstall subframe (flipping the bushings should gain me the clearance - but I'm worried about "lowering" the subframe and offsetting my camber adjustment - and what it might do to my driveline angles).

                                    Open to suggestions: leaning towards cutting off tops of current weld-in subframe risers, or flipping subframe risers. Not crazy about ordering $160 bushings, waiting for them to arrive, and hoping those don't hit too.....

                                    886A5D21-DF74-4F69-A446-C49F17704D62.jpg

                                    B42CF732-9C45-4CFE-93ED-D45F8C9858E8.jpg

                                    61AB1C7B-290D-4CE0-BD37-BEA2D631FD11.jpg

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                                    • ClassEC
                                      ClassEC
                                      ClassE
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #182

                                      Didn't have any help today, so swapped all the interior door panels and cleaned the carpets up.

                                      Before:

                                      9919B7CD-2642-4C88-8326-D9202B7832EE.jpg

                                      After (hard to tell - but MUCH better):

                                      4906F9EC-4266-45D0-84F9-F93668FF48AF.jpg

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                                      0
                                      • ClassEC
                                        ClassEC
                                        ClassE
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #183

                                        Gonna try to flip the rear subframe bushings tonight and reinstall. We'll see what that does with the rear camber once installed - hopefully it won't be more then I can offset with the weld-in camber plates.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
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                                        • ClassEC
                                          ClassEC
                                          ClassE
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #184

                                          Well - had another good night in the garage last night. Pulled subframe back out, flip-flopped subframe bushings and removed subframe spacers and reinstalled. We had some issues getting the metal sleeves that run through the subframe bushings into the underbody "pockets", but half an hour of wiggling and "adjusting" with a BFH they finally slipped in.

                                          The weld-in camber plates clear the underbody now.... But not by much. I do have acouple questions:

                                          -Do I reinstall the original large washers that were sandwiched between the subframe bushings and body? I did - just wasn't sure if I was supposed to.

                                          -When I drop the big rear suframe bolts through the holes/bushings about 1/2" is sticking down through the bushings. I was expecting more - so tried tapping the bolt down with a socket extension but it didn't seem to want to go down. Does 1/2" of thread sound about right? When you tighten down the nut from below, does the splines of the bolt seat down and gain me more thread?

                                          -I've seen 70ft/lbs for the subframe nuts - and "get tight as possible". Thoughts on torque spec?

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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