ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread
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Those wheels with properly sized tires on that car... that's going to be awesome!
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Well, 2 out of 3 isn't bad.
I guess I somehow missed the post where you said 205. Car looks great! -
wow, those wheels are awesome! they are like a Hartge design with a lip.
Proper sized tires would be 235's or 245's on a 9" wide wheel IMO.
I may try 255's
I have 205's now that came on my authentic STR wheels (not fake STR's)#allforlooks
#eurohatch
#f***yourfakewheels
#stretchedbutthoal -
Without fender flares tho on a 9" wheel in front - the offset needs to be low enough to clear the coils (ET10ish). That width and offset + 235/245-anything will never fit under the stock fenders (without 4x4 height).
I know the stretch/low isn't for everyone - but it is my preference.
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Even if people are into different stuff. Anyone who calls himself a car guy can respect the time and effort put into a project.
Looks good man. Can't wait to see it in person.
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Even if people are into different stuff. Anyone who calls himself a car guy can respect the time and effort put into a project. Looks good man. Can't wait to see it in person.
Troof! Not my taste with the stretched tires, but the wheels look awesome!
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Thanks guys! I'm just anxious to get it back together and get in some wheel time! I'm not doing nearly as much cleaning and coating to everything as I wanted - but given the compressed timeline before good weather *should* be arriving... I'm okay with it.
Now I just can't wait to get the wheels back with the centers colormatched - and the shaved centercaps!!!
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Anyone on here knowledgable on E30 rear subframe and suspension geometry? I've got questions regarding subframe bushings and their affects on toe/camber....
Are you interested in the condor speed shop 12mm risers?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
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Thanks - They are essentially a 1-piece "remake" (knockoff) of OZ Turbos.
Here's my dilemma: went to install the subframe and the camber adjustments plates are hitting the under side of the body. I kinda went overkill and installed the subframe riser AND the weld in camber adjustments - I believe the risers are causing the weld-in adjustments to hit because they're now 12mm higher. Here's my options:
-Buy the "standard" height subframe bushings and hope everything fits.
-Cut off the tops of the existing weld-in camber adjustment plates
-"Flip" the existing subframe riser bushings and reinstall subframe (flipping the bushings should gain me the clearance - but I'm worried about "lowering" the subframe and offsetting my camber adjustment - and what it might do to my driveline angles).
Open to suggestions: leaning towards cutting off tops of current weld-in subframe risers, or flipping subframe risers. Not crazy about ordering $160 bushings, waiting for them to arrive, and hoping those don't hit too.....
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Well - had another good night in the garage last night. Pulled subframe back out, flip-flopped subframe bushings and removed subframe spacers and reinstalled. We had some issues getting the metal sleeves that run through the subframe bushings into the underbody "pockets", but half an hour of wiggling and "adjusting" with a BFH they finally slipped in.
The weld-in camber plates clear the underbody now.... But not by much. I do have acouple questions:
-Do I reinstall the original large washers that were sandwiched between the subframe bushings and body? I did - just wasn't sure if I was supposed to.
-When I drop the big rear suframe bolts through the holes/bushings about 1/2" is sticking down through the bushings. I was expecting more - so tried tapping the bolt down with a socket extension but it didn't seem to want to go down. Does 1/2" of thread sound about right? When you tighten down the nut from below, does the splines of the bolt seat down and gain me more thread?
-I've seen 70ft/lbs for the subframe nuts - and "get tight as possible". Thoughts on torque spec?
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on mine, I torqued them to 70 lb-ft ish or whatever the spec is and it didn't seem quite right to me so I snugged them down by feel.
I couldn't find anything on the trailing arm torque specs so I checked for free motion without the shock attached and snugged it down until it started to bind just a bit, then backed it off to where it still freely rotates, I used nylock nuts and loctite.
Also, yes, the washers get re-installed, otherwise the shear area on the bushing will be reduced and will wreck the bushings sooner
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Well - had another pretty good night!
Subframe is up and bolted in, rear coils are in, ebrake and driveshaft are bolted in, rear seats are in, new front sway bar end links and steering boots are in, new front tie rod ends are in.... Didn't install the new swaybar bushings though when I ran across this:
Apparently the passenger front sway bar bushing mount was broke/stripped at some point and a PO or shop did this. I'm going to leave bushings "as is" until I can replace the front substructure.
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