ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread
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How I did it:
Paddle bit around center - remove center. Score outer sleeve with sawzall, drive flathead between subframe side and score - bend edges in. Hit with "fine adjustment tool" until reach desired result.
First one took about 20 minutes (I didn't know there was a outer sleeve..... Shut up Earl) - second one took about 10 minutes.
Basketball in the living room time with my 2.5 year old! More tomorrow night.
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Where do you get the bolts zinc coated?
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@DrLeadFoot
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The bolts above in the toe/camber kit came zinc coated from Ireland Engineering - I'm having some other stuff coated by a local company a family member manages.
If you could PM me the name of their shop that would be great. I need to do some bolts.
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@DrLeadFoot
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You should try something less harsh like simple green, It's easier on your skin and gets stuff clean. I use it 50/50 with water in my parts cleaner. It's also significantly cheaper than cans of carb cleaner.
Normally I would - but the underside of things had a weird yellow "film" (hard to describe - thin layer of cracked yellow hue something) that did NOT want to come off. Used a putty knife to scrape it off, then needed carb cleaner and a scotchbrite pad to clean off. Whatever it was, it wasn't corrosive because it didnt etch the aliminium or steel.
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Nice work! This car is coming along quickly, can't wait to see it on the ground. Are you planning on bringing it to the e30 picnic?
Yup! Hoping to have it driving in 2 weeks (if I really haul ass and everything works out perfectly maybe next weekend.... But things never seem to go that way for me).
My first BMW, first GTG of the season, and first time showing off the car (other then this build thread - there's no pictures of this car/build anywhere. It's been "radio silence" on Instagram and Facebook for me - most people don't have any idea what I bought when I sold my mk3).
Looking forward to it!!!
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Normally I would - but the underside of things had a weird yellow "film" (hard to describe - thin layer of cracked yellow hue something) that did NOT want to come off. Used a putty knife to scrape it off, then needed carb cleaner and a scotchbrite pad to clean off. Whatever it was, it wasn't corrosive because it didnt etch the aluminum or steel.
Yea that is some kind of wax, I have found that in a few places on my car too, some seem to have more than others, my e36 had it on the tops of the strut towers but not much underneath.
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Not a bad day today. Got the trailing arm bushings and diff bushings out, adjusted the coil heights to where I "think" they're gonna be, and did some much needed cleaning in the garage.
Tomorrow night is installing all the brake lines and getting the new bushings in the rear end!
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With the exception of the passengers line - all the original rubber lines came out like a friggen dream. Passenger front took alittle more elbow grease and my big boy panties to break loose (didn't help it was a bench/tri day so pushing was a chore). So all new stainless braided lines are installed!
When we were bleeding some of the fluid out when disconnecting the rear lines - we pumped the brake pedal alittle bit. The passenger front piston had pushed itself out of the caliper - should I be concerned about it? It pushed back in relatively easily (what I consider to be adequate pressure to get back in). I'm thinking this is normal from pumping the brakes? I believe that was the only caliper disconnected from the carrier at the time (which is why the drivers didn't push out as well). Thoughts?
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