'88 E30

Jdesign

Damn that looks like it filled up well. Did you have to use a filler material? I would have used Plexus epoxy to fill them but there are obviously many ways to get the job done. Do you have any plans of mimicking the texture so it is consistent? Awesome progress!

KaiserRolls

Jdesign said:

Damn that looks like it filled up well. Did you have to use a filler material? I would have used Plexus epoxy to fill them but there are obviously many ways to get the job done. Do you have any plans of mimicking the texture so it is consistent? Awesome progress!

Just used the stuff that came in the box from harbor freight. Assuming it’s some type of polypro.

Epoxy would’ve probably worked as well.

I thought about sanding it & doing all that beautification. But I’m not any good at that so I’ll probably just leave it for now

jc43089

KaiserRolls said:

Just used the stuff that came in the box from harbor freight. Assuming it’s some type of polypro.

Epoxy would’ve probably worked as well.

I thought about sanding it & doing all that beautification. But I’m not any good at that so I’ll probably just leave it for now

Enough boost should smooth it out, just send it!

suspenceful

Hopefully it's strong enough. I would hate for pieces of that to break and get sucked into your motor.

Good progress!

jc43089

suspenceful said:

Hopefully it's strong enough. I would hate for pieces of that to break and get sucked into your motor.

Good progress!

It shouldn't see much/any vacuum, it is upstream from the throttle body so it should be between atmospheric pressure and full boost. To be extra safe I would recommend full throttle at all times so any pieces are blown out rather than in.

m42b32

jc43089 said:

To be extra safe I would recommend full throttle at all times so any pieces are blown out rather than in.

Solid advice right there

KaiserRolls

suspenceful said:

Hopefully it's strong enough. I would hate for pieces of that to break and get sucked into your motor.

Good progress!

As others have said, would be blown out 9/10 times.

Also the way the plastic is laid over it, if it were to delaminate from that pipe, it wouldn’t fit thru the hole.

My OCD will make me check it after every drive though I’m sure

Earl

There's no way that could really fail. I guarantee the pipe is made out of a thermoplastic elastomer or a thermoset plastic. The plastic welding would have reached high enough temperatures for the filler rod to melt to the existing material instead of just puddling on like a patch. Not to mention that you wont be pulling near enough vacuum to cause it to collapse inward even if it was somewhat thin.

KaiserRolls

Brought it into work today and asked some plastic process engineers. They all said it’ll be good.

At least now I have people to blame if it does fail

KaiserRolls

Front end is back together. Hoses are routed & headlight covers are on. Filter is also in, still need to figure out a splash shield for it.

Sensing a theme with this car where clearance is measure by fingers. This has two fingers of clearance. It’ll be fine though

B C

Critical but necessary questions:

have you installed the SC tune/chip yet?
have you ever removed a subframe?!?

KaiserRolls

Snap said:

Critical but necessary questions:

have you installed the SC tune/chip yet?

have you ever removed a subframe?!?

Still need to put the red413 in, remove the silver413, install GIAC tune for 7lb pulley

KaiserRolls

Got to this point last night & realized my intake manifold is absolutely smashing my heater core pipe. Gr8

Need to remove all this crap so I can get the intake off so I can bend the heater core some more & find a 90° bend and some fittings to get this away from the intake as much as possible

Jdesign

Your heater core should be metal tubes. If so you can easily do what I did at the expense of $0. I removed the ends of the heater core from inside under the dash, and chopped them down about 1-2". this way the bend of the coolant hose happens right at the firewall vs. 2" out as shown in your last picture. Only downfall is that the hose clamps for the coolant lines are now under your dash rather than in the engine bay.

KaiserRolls

That’s a really good idea. But I won’t be doing that. Sounds like way more work than I want to do to be honest haha

straight6pwr

curious to see what you do there. my spider hose exploded at that spot, the intake was touching and most likely wore a hole in the hose. i was considering modifying the rubber firewall grommet to allow pushing the hoses downward.

nice progress!

KaiserRolls

straight6pwr said:

curious to see what you do there. my spider hose exploded at that spot, the intake was touching and most likely wore a hole in the hose. i was considering modifying the rubber firewall grommet to allow pushing the hoses downward.

nice progress!

I’ll let you know what crap I come up with lol

KaiserRolls

Hopefully someone here knows.

The GIAC e36 chip was plugged into another GIAC board thing. Just curious as to what the board thing could be. The chip was originally for a 506 DME (my assumption based on the chicken scratch), but 413red and 506 can run the same chip.

Could this board be for an EWS delete?? Not sure if the 506 came with EWS or not though. Any info would be great. I’d love to just pop the chip into my 413 red label and call it good.

B C

You need it

The TRM tune for the 413 red label has it too so it doesnt have anything to do with EWS. Im guessing it completes or decrypts what is on the chip to protect the intellectual property.

Anyone can quickly and cheaply copy a chip and sell it for $300

But nobody really wants to replicate and produce the chip base too.

This is my theory at least

GunMetalGrey

Lightweight mod, take it out and see what happens?

I'd play it safe and leave it though.

WIBIMMERS

'88 E30