'88 E30
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Thanks guys! I want to try and hit as many auto X that I can and maybe even head to a track soonish. I have a ton to learn but it's exciting to get out and safely push yourself with others who enjoy it just as much as you do
This is exactly my mentality. I plan on getting comfortable autocrossing with the E30 (have never done it). And I've been straight line racing the 135i. It's nice to safely learn while having fun. Eventually I'd like to do a lapping day with either car, not sure which I'd want to use. E30 is less risky, 135i is a lot more powerful.
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FWIW I've learned more about my car/driving in the 2 auto X events I've ever done than I have learned in all my years of driving.
And that's only 16 total runs lol
Run em both and see what you like more
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Instafamous!
Lol
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So nothing new is going on. I dropped the fenders off to get fixed so I had to drive the car like an asshole
Then noticed I have an awesome coolant leak somewhere. Assuming it's coming out of the region where the heater core hoses meet with the firewall. It's either those connections or the flange on the back of the head. The coolant that is leaking is super clean, so I'm hopeful that it's just something stupid like a 37 cent hose clamp (god damn you menards)
In other news I moved
Setup some shelves and a workbench
(Got shorted on hardware) God damn you twice menards.
Garage still needs organizing. But it's super convenient that my car decides to leak after I get the work area setup. It must miss jack stands or something
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I spy Royal Purple. Pour that crap down the drain.
Not mine home slicer
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Well about the coolant leak. It only seemed to happen when the car was turned off after it was warm. It was dripping coolant near the trans brace (either it ran down the trans/firewall/whatever)
I looked at all the connections that were easily visible and saw zero signs of coolant leakage. I know the compression is awesome on the motor from when I bought it and the motor itself shows no obvious signs of a failing HG.
Cooling system is 100% all new parts and the temp stays right around 195-205 on the tstat housing via temp gun. The coolant has no oil and the oil has no coolant in one another. I can let the car idle for years and it doesn't overheat etc, etc etc
Last night I took the strut bar off and removed some crap to get at the heater core hoses. I was able to significantly tighten one and sort of tighten another. However I could not see any visible signs that coolant was leaking from them (car had been sitting for about a week though)
So after I tightened them I went and drove it around, got it to temp, let it idle in a parking lot while I checked out everything under and in the car.
No signs of the leak apart from a few slight drips (from coolant that was already there hopefully). Heater core firewall hose area was also dry
I went for a beat run, came back and shut the car off, let it sit, same sort of residue few drop scenario.
Then I thought maybe it's the heater core. Carpet was dry as a bone. I tried for leaks while using the heat and with the heat off. Nothing seemed to make a difference.
Got annoyed took car home parked it and can't find any leaks
TL;DR if my fucking heater core leaks I'm going to gut this stupid thing.
In other news my fenders will be done tomorrow
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Get some UV coolant dye from carquest, I think they had the best prices on the bottles and uv flashlights.
I was considering this. But probably won't do it. Simply because I don't want to see a glow around the heater box area. Gonna get out this weekend and drive the car some more to see if the leak has stopped after I tightened some stuff
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Also got the fenders back today. Also will be calling them about the fenders so they can re-fix their "work"
-bubbles in clear
-black overspray on the red
-didn't paint the bottom of the fender correctly to match my black rockers
-didn't install the trim
-some of the paint looks to already be cracked from shrinking
-hooray
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Also got the fenders back today. Also will be calling them about the fenders so they can re-fix their "work"
-bubbles in clear
-black overspray on the red
-didn't paint the bottom of the fender correctly to match my black rockers
-didn't install the trim
-some of the paint looks to already be cracked from shrinking
-hooray
Where was the "work" done?
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I had one brand new oem fender. And my passenger side was in good shape, just needed paint and a dent pulled.
I called today and they said I can bring them back in. Conveniently they are only open when I work. So it'll probably be another week before I can get them back
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I had one brand new oem fender. And my passenger side was in good shape, just needed paint and a dent pulled.
I called today and they said I can bring them back in. Conveniently they are only open when I work. So it'll probably be another week before I can get them back
That sucks... I have to say, you've had some shitty luck lately. Hope they make things right!
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KaiserRolls said:
I had one brand new oem fender. And my passenger side was in good shape, just needed paint and a dent pulled.
I called today and they said I can bring them back in. Conveniently they are only open when I work. So it'll probably be another week before I can get them back
That sucks... I have to say, you've had some shitty luck lately. Hope they make things right!
Yeah dude- not the best luck it seems lol. I called and talked to them, they told me to bring them back as soon as I could. It sounds like they will make it right, or worse idk
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Well the coolant leak has seemed to stop. I guess that hose clamp was the culprit. Coolant must've been running down the firewall and then somehow making its way to the trans brace area
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After going back and forth with this body shop 3 times (they repainted it again and again) I finally got my fenders back. The black on the bottom of the fender was not painted high enough (it's about 1/4" low) but I am just absolutely done with fucking around with this place. I'm just going to get some truck bed liner and fix it myself. Also when I was installing the drivers side fender the clear cracked where it ran and bunched up under neath the headlight where the fender attaches to the valence. You should be able to twist the painted surface a decent amount before cracking occurs. But not when they use shit clear and shoot thin coats to save money. This winter I want to start fixing some body rust on my car and get it more respectable looking as right now I'm one more rust spot away from drift missle status. Plus it will be a good chance to learn some body work. After fixing the rust and crap I may eventually wrap the car because I'm so sick of fucking paint
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Plastidip boyyeee!!!!
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