'88 E30
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the gripforce stage 3/4 clutches are pretty good! they definitely don't last too long, and they chatter a bit, but man they are cheap and hold power. I have no complaints. But I also would not buy one expecting to not replace it soon.
that being said, I would probably get a different clutch for this car, especially if you have future FI goals or something.
sk8 or die
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the gripforce stage 3/4 clutches are pretty good! they definitely don't last too long, and they chatter a bit, but man they are cheap and hold power. I have no complaints. But I also would not buy one expecting to not replace it soon.
that being said, I would probably get a different clutch for this car, especially if you have future FI goals or something.
FI wouldn't happen for a while.
How long is "not too long" ?
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Well I'm not sure what kind of driving you are doing, but about a season of drifting would do it in. I'm not sure how often you clutch kick, but I kick a whole bunch.
Personally if I was in your spot and wanted to drive it this summer, I would buy the cheap clutch and have fun all summer. Save up, and don't push it if it starts to slip.
Also not sure what kinda position you are for spending money, and how much time means to you.
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sk8 or die
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I'm a cheap asshole with no time.
I have become the epitome of consumer
I'm sure spirited driving will happen. But killing a clutch in a summer isn't on my bucket list
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I have a cheap flywheel. $150
What's the weight on the JB?
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5$ says the cheap eBay clutch will do you justice for a while.
I mean, how long before you can afford the clutch you want right?
It takes me about 2 hours to change a clutch on an e30. I couldn't imagine it being much more with a 24v swap.
I would rather drive the car now with a cheap clutch versus drive it next summer with a nice clutch(could still do
That)
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sk8 or die
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What's the weight on the JB?
I think 13lbs
@DrLeadFoot
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No progress really, just put the pan on after getting a new pickup tube gasket. Also put some ngk plugs in it.
Just need to swap the harness from the m50 to the s50. Clean up intake manifold & put new gaskets in it. Clean up TB. Random vacuum line from fpr to intake. Random coolant line to bypass TB.
Then all the driveline/clutch stuff
Oh and a serp belt
How it sits now. I bet the white gets dirty before I even put fluids in it
Do have a question: I've read that you need to run shorter bolts to hold the crank pulley on after removing the ac pulley. Some say they ran shorter, others did not. I cannot see anything touching something it shouldn't. For piece of mind I'll probably just get shorter bolts
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Where does the small tube go? Pic of line to ICV?
You could tap the valve cover with a 3/4" NPT tap and run braided lines to a catch can.
@DrLeadFoot
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The small tube plugs into the ICV hose that curls up into the intake manifold
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Small tube from PCV
goes to this little nipple close to the white gasket (top of pic) on the ICV hose which goes into the intake manifold 
Large tube has those barbed connectors on the dipstick tube it can be connected to. Or I could just run it to a catch can. Instead of having it drain everywhere
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Also installed the UHMW PS delete from condor because I was bored
Ultra high molecular weight vs aluminum.
Green jacket, gold jacket, who gives a shit
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I blocked the small hose as it doesn't really do much and will be running the large hose into a catch can, but the large one is currently vented to atmosphere.
I needed shorter bolts in the timing wheel, but ended up turning the pulley into a spacer instead. -
Also installed the UHMW PS delete from condor because I was bored
I saw my delrin oops, so I fixed it
Thx bb
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I blocked the small hose as it doesn't really do much and will be running the large hose into a catch can, but the large one is currently vented to atmosphere.
I needed shorter bolts in the timing wheel, but ended up turning the pulley into a spacer instead.
Assuming you also blocked the nipple on the ICV hose?
I'm gonna probably order shorter bolts then. I don't want to put the pulley back on
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