Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)

[DrLeadFoot]

Started on the divers door wiring. Didn't take too many pics but I sorted out the interior light wiring and now both interior lights work when the door opens!! Ah, the little things. The PO had pulled the 30amp fuse 27 and you'll see why.

I still would like the exterior handle to trigger the interior lights prior to entry but I am having trouble finding a picture of how the mechanism works inside the door and if I'm missing a striker(?) piece, that would close the connection triggering the interior light timing control, which I think I am.

I combed through the wiring schematics and tracked down the C503 connector and bypassed that by crimping the BR/GN wires together and the BR ones the like. The pics I have are of how the PO had them after I unwrapped of what seemed to be 2 feet of electrical tape.

The C503 connector has three wires coming from the chassis to the connector the RD/BLK is there but isn't used.

That is where the PO had a short or didn't know what he was doing and this happened.

Fire, Fire!!

[GunMetalGrey]

I have full door wiring harnesses if you want to just replace the whole thing.

[DrLeadFoot]

This is what I need a part number for.  Just the electircal part of the handle that bolts to the mechanism via a 10mm nut.

[DrLeadFoot]

GunMetalGrey said:

I have full door wiring harnesses if you want to just replace the whole thing. 

Yes please.  Do you have that handle part I just posted too?  Also, what is your timeframe on pulling that?

[GunMetalGrey]

I have the wiring sitting in a box, and I can't quite tell what your picture is of. I can't open the picture to make it larger.

[DrLeadFoot]

It is a shot from the door cavity side of the exterior door handle.  There is a contact switch that closes when you pull up on the handle illuminating the interior lights.

[DrLeadFoot]

Did a little bit of work on the car but need to get into the office and do some work and get paid!

Removing the rear main seal.

Slide hammer'd it out.

New rear main installed.  I put a thin layer of black RTV sealant on the outside and some oil on the inside.

All torqued down to 80ft/lbs per UUC instructions.

[GunMetalGrey]

lol at the ziptie method

[jc43089]

Excited to hear how the twin disc feels driving. Genius design.

Sent from my potato phone

[DrLeadFoot]

I'm all about those ties!!

[DrLeadFoot]

I ordered my last bit of parts that should be here Wednesday. 

Tomorrow I will get the clutch bolted up and move my attention to the trans and prep it for install.  Shift fork, brass pivot thing, new reverse switch and plug and wiring that goes with that.  I've never had reverse lights! 

Turbo t3 gasket needs to be replaced.  Any recommendations on a good one?

I don't see why I couldn't get this on the road by this weekend.  Once it is under its own power I'm taking it to Dan the Exhaust Man's shop right away and having the e36 twin diff mount cover installed (if someone will take my money!).

Also need to take some material off of my blow-off valve spring to stop the fluttering. 

/rambling

[DrLeadFoot]

Got the clutch on, loc-tit'd and torqued.

Got a snap-on torque wrench.  LOVE IT

[Jdesign]

Looks nice!!!!! Cant wait to see it back in action.

[DrLeadFoot]

Getting close! 

I need to look up how to prep the trans for install.  Where to grease and with what.

[Earl]

How much did the torque wrench run you? I need to invest in a quality one like that=)

[DrLeadFoot]

Earl said:

How much did the torque wrench run you? I need to invest in a quality one like that=) 

It was around $480 with a discount.

[DrLeadFoot]

I prepped the trans for install last night.  Took some 0W oil and sloshed it around in the trans to flush it out a bit. Here are the results of the first and second flushes.

First go.

About half as much debris on the second round.

My custom trans stand.

After this I tired to get the trans in but could only get past the first clutch disk.  I need to pull the pressure plate and re-align the disks while slightly applying upward pressure during tightening.  This should solve the issue and if not I'll get my buddy over to muscle it in.  #getthebillytool

[CMart]

What is the part on the left?

[DrLeadFoot]

CMart said:

What is the part on the left?

The brass clutch fork pivot pin?  and the metal wire piece is what hold the fork tight against it.

[DrLeadFoot]

Had to take the pressure plate off and re-align the clutch disks after wrestling with the trans and not getting it to the honey hole. I had a couple buddies swing by for some beers, NCAA ball and a little wrenching.

Melted the red loc-tite to remove the nuts when the studs came out. Reinstalled the studs with blue loc-tite and snugged them in. We then cleaned up the threads with a wire brush and a pick for the install.

After a ton of finessing she popped in!