Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)

[DrLeadFoot]

Snap ( I M50) said:

This is why you need an M20. Then you could have fun (maybe) without freaking yourself out. 

Haha.  When it warms up I want to look like this but with more hair.

[B C]

[DrLeadFoot]

http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w3_tial_qqr_sp.pdf

I need to get a bigger i.d. line to support this BOV.  From there I'll tackle the fluttering if it is still happening at 20+psi.

[RamRod E28]

Everyone remembers that iconic douchebag lol-

[ClassE]

When I had poly mounts in my mk3, the whole car shook when it was 40 degrees or colder. In summer tho - vibrations weren't nearly as bad. Hopefully that's the case for you (and me soon).

[DrLeadFoot]

My next little undertaking that needs to be done to get this thing close to 100% right:

- Switch my heater core hoses on the firewall.  I read a couple of places that if you have them incorrect you will only blow hot air at idle and get cold air at speed which are my current symptoms.  DONE

- While my hands are tucked in there I'm going to install my adjustable FPR.

- With the coolant coming out of the car I will pull my radiator to 1) completely drain the system as much as I can to get fresh coolant in there just for peace of mind, 2) deal with a striped bolt on my vanos cover (ugh!) and 3) RTV seal + reinstall the vanos cover gasket.  I'm 99% this is where the oil leak is coming from.  An educated guess by the DOC.  DONE

- Fill with distilled water then drive to my buddies shop where he can pressure fill the system with the liquid gold aka BMW blue coolant, water wetter and distilled water.

- While there do an oil change with royal purple and take a oil sample and send out to get tested to see what she is sweatin' off in there.

- Replace the current BOV vacuum hose with a 1/4" I.D. braided line.

If all goes well with the oil leak and BOV I'll then change the boost to low 20s psi. and have a beer.

[mkoepp]

DrLeadFoot said:

My next little undertaking that needs to be done to get this thing close to 100% right:

- Switch my heater core hoses on the firewall.  I read a couple of places that if you have them incorrect you will only blow hot air at idle and get cold air at speed which are my current symptoms.

- While my hands are tucked in there I'm going to install my adjustable FPR.

- With the coolant coming out of the car I will pull my radiator to 1) completely drain the system as much as I can to get fresh coolant in there just for peace of mind, 2) deal with a striped bolt on my vanos cover (ugh!) and 3) RTV seal + reinstall the vanos cover gasket.  I'm 99% this is where the oil leak is coming from.  An educated guess by the DOC.

- Fill with distilled water then drive to my buddies shop where he can pressure fill the system with the liquid gold aka BMW blue coolant, water wetter and distilled water.

- While there do an oil change with royal purple and take a oil sample and send out to get tested to see what she is sweatin' off in there.

- Replace the current BOV vacuum hose with a 1/4" I.D. braided line.

If all goes well with the oil leak and BOV I'll then change the boost to low 20s psi. and have a beer.

Busy day there.....I like what your doing and I will take you up on that ride in better weather....Actually looking forward to it. I would like to get to know more about boosting in general....

Thanks for posting your progress.....

[DrLeadFoot]

mkoepp said:

Busy day there.....I like what your doing and I will take you up on that ride in better weather....Actually looking forward to it. I would like to get to know more about boosting in general....

Thanks for posting your progress.....

I do have my work cut out for me on this day.  Whenever that will come.  Probably within a week or two.

In sub teen temps with the 215mm tires I might as well not give it more than half throttle.  I forgot to mention I will be popping my 235's on soon just to rock in this salt.  Those rims are cheap ESMs.  Pretty frustrating but it will make me get this thing 100% right before the warm weather comes so I can just drive!

[DrLeadFoot]

Soooo I just snapped the tapper in the vanos cover hole.  %*&%#@$!!  Time to walk away for a bit.

I'm thinking of getting a reverse threaded drill bit and see if it will back itself out.  Does anyone know how much extra material is surrounding those holes?  Oh god....  I actually might just take that cover off and see what I can do then.

On a slightly positive note there was oil on the bolt when I took it out leading me to believe that the oil leak is coming from that gasket

[B C]

This cold weather is a dickhoal. 

I was installing a head stud yesterday, almost torqued down, then SNAP

(unfathomable rage and fear, imminent death, and all the foul things of the world all concentrated into a tiny particle  and then vomited upon the expanse of my ambiance ).

Some oil in the bottom of the hole prevented the stud from going down further and the cold caused the stud to pull out 2-3 threads  from the cold brittle cast iron block. I was able to clean out the hole and thread it back in with plenty of engagement left so all is well in the world, but still. I nearly cried. 

My oil filter housing already fell victim to the cold last week. That was bad enough.

Good luck with that tap.

[DrLeadFoot]

This cold sure does a number to ya mentally, physically and spiritually.

Tried to drill a tiny hole in the tap to fit a reverse thread extractor but the bit just dulled up right away so I stopped.  Back on break time.  I might just have to drill and tap to a bigger size.

[Bassboy3313]

I am sure you will figure out a great solution, but damn does that sound like a heart sinker situation. I hate those. Hoping for the best for both of ya!

[DrLeadFoot]

This type of stuff really tests me.  I have some credit at Kummrow from them putting the head and cams in and I might have Pat do the tapping for me.  I have a call into him just waiting for a response.

I also got the heater hoses off of the firewall and now I just need to pop them on the right way.  Tomorrow I will head out to Pegasus to get a thicker vacuum hose setup for the BOV.

[DrLeadFoot]

Pat Kummrow let me borrow his broken tap extractor kit!  It got the tap out but it broke up.  Once it was cleaned out I noticed that the hole goes straight into the timing cover and I think some metal pieces fell in there.  Oh GOD!  Next I need to pull the valve cover and see if I can vacuum any bigger pieces out then dump a least 10 quarts of oil down the timing chain with the drain open to rinse any other debris out.  Run it for 10-20 minutes then change the oil/filter again.

I might have to helicoil (spelling?) the hole.

I think this is where the oil leak was coming from so this will all be worth it in the end.

Oh GOD!!

[KaiserRolls]

Had to helicoil a clutch cover bolt on a ktm one time. It turned out iffy-ish

[DrLeadFoot]

KaiserRolls said:

Had to helicoil a clutch cover bolt on a ktm one time. It turned out iffy-ish

I've never done one.  I have a inner valve cover bolt that I will have to do as well. 

I just need to have a little pressure on tightening it.  I think the oil was leaking through the threads so I will liquid Teflon seal the bolt up on install. 

This better work.

[Rowleym]

DrLeadFoot said:

This better work.

Id say. Id be a bad day if something went more wrong..

[jc43089]

I would use a thread insert rather than a helicoil.  It should be easier to get it to seal and should stay put better.  Use a tapered tap and don't go all of the way through so that the insert gets snug (think tapered pipe thread) and clean out good with brake cleaner so the loctite sticks good, if the insert is too long then cut/grind the end off once its in there securely.

[DrLeadFoot]

The doctor will be in the lab this morning if any of you guys near Whitefish Bay want to stop by and see this:

PM me for my address info.

[DrLeadFoot]

I got me a marlin!!!!! On my first cast too! Thank god.

The remainder of debris. H3GON3

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