Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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you shouldnt need the ECU pinout. I took an OE O2 sensor connector (the sensor side of the connector, not the ECU harness side) and used it for my wideband setup so I didnt have to hack up the ECU harness.

The simulated narrowband signal wire off your wideband controller would get wired to the signal pin on the spare O2 connector. (wideband sends data to the controller, then the controller converts it to a narrowband signal and sends it to the O2 connector and then onto the stock ECU.
You should ground your wideband controller to the same ground the ECU uses to increase the accuracy of the signal (the pass. strut tower on a stock M20 wiring configuration for example) and in my experiences with an Innovate LC-1 controller, the +12v is really finnicky, Some people are able to use the ground and 12v from the o2 heater (shown on that o2 connector pinout) to power the controller, but on my car it gave me a low-voltage error and I had to wire it elsewhere. BUT, if you are looking for ideas of how to power your wideband controller, the o2 heater is one option. I ended up tapping into my defrost switch wire for power and it has worked flawlessly without low-voltage errors.
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you shouldnt need the ECU pinout. I took an OE O2 sensor connector (the sensor side of the connector, not the ECU harness side) and used it for my wideband setup so I didnt have to hack up the ECU harness.
The simulated narrowband signal wire off your wideband controller would get wired to the signal pin on the spare O2 connector. (wideband sends data to the controller, then the controller converts it to a narrowband signal and sends it to the O2 connector and then onto the stock ECU.
You should ground your wideband controller to the same ground the ECU uses to increase the accuracy of the signal (the pass. strut tower on a stock M20 wiring configuration for example) and in my experiences with an Innovate LC-1 controller, the +12v is really finnicky, Some people are able to use the ground and 12v from the o2 heater (shown on that o2 connector pinout) to power the controller, but on my car it gave me a low-voltage error and I had to wire it elsewhere. BUT, if you are looking for ideas of how to power your wideband controller, the o2 heater is one option. I ended up tapping into my defrost switch wire for power and it has worked flawlessly without low-voltage errors.
PLX devices is fixing the brain now. Once I get it back I will be on this like white on rye!!!
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Today I should get the car back. For reals! I can't wait to hear the sounds from the orchestra from hell!!!!
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....Why are you putting in flexpiping..... this isn't a FWD car..
I want to take any unnecessary stress off of the manifold.
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How have you liked the treehouse racing eyeball arms? Mine are arriving today=) Exhaust looks good btw!
I haven't had anything else so I guess I like them!
Thanks!
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This whole build is just awesome, that exhaust looks great and I bet it sounds even better!
Haha, Thanks!!!
He is finishing up today/tomorrow so I have no clue what it's going sound like.
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looks proper!!!
I like it a lot
also, you should get an award or something.
for being basically the only member to finish their build on here!!!

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looks proper!!!
I like it a lot
also, you should get an award or something.
for being basically the only member to finish their build on here!!!

Thanks!!
I'll just take an award for getting out of that lot alive.
I'm not done yet! Just bought all my lines and connectors for the CCV and catch can set up. $360, ouch.
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And the build goes on. Just popped this in.

Can someone school me on which coolant temp sensor controls the ecu (blue?) and which goes to the cluster(black)? I have a brown top m20 single wire sensor but want to confirm.
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looks proper!!!
I like it a lot
also, you should get an award or something.
for being basically the only member to finish their build on here!!!

Easy there killer! I should be on the road thursday!
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Easy there killer! I should be on the road thursday!
Two Awards!!!!!
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Isn't 400 a bit low to shoot for with an s52?
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Sometimes 400hp is faster than 600hp. And besides Its not how you stand by your car, its how you race your car.
As far as the coolant temp sensors, I believe blue is for the ECU and brown is for the cluster, but it has been a while so check to see how many wires each one has. I believe the ECU temp sensor has 2 wires and the gauge temp sensor has 1. You will see that the harness is missing a pin when you disconnect it.
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