Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
-
I have the PLX Devices unit. It looks pretty smart. Do you know if this is capable of the same thing?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
-
What resistor do you have to use?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
@DrLeadFoot
-
I like the mudflaps, what brand are they?
Kamotors made them. He is on r3vlimited.com
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
@DrLeadFoot
-
Kamotors made them. He is on r3vlimited.com
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
I am not even going to go there on this one!
-
What resistor do you have to use?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
I never ran a resistor, but since I run Megasquirt now, I have no need to run simulated narrowband. I'd try it without a resistor first if you are going to give it a shot.
-
Kamotors made them. He is on r3vlimited.com
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
I am not even going to go there on this one!
Bad experience? He has always been good with my transactions.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
@DrLeadFoot
-
Are they hard plastic? They look stiff, I have rallyarmor urethane ones and they are nice and bendy.
They are bendy.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
@DrLeadFoot
-
What resistor do you have to use?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
I never ran a resistor, but since I run Megasquirt now, I have no need to run simulated narrowband. I'd try it without a resistor first if you are going to give it a shot.
Will do. Do you happen to have the pin #s for the ecu?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
@DrLeadFoot
-
Oh, no he is a good guy. Some people just tend to think that he fabricates some of the things he sells himself and as such, they cannot be obtained anywhere else (intakes, mirrors, etc) which are actually just bulk purchased items from sites like Alibaba.com. The markup on those parts is pretty substantial. One can usually save big money by buying them elsewhere.
-
The front is coming together!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
@DrLeadFoot
-
Before I dropped it off at the exhaust guys shop.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk now Free
@DrLeadFoot
-
you shouldnt need the ECU pinout. I took an OE O2 sensor connector (the sensor side of the connector, not the ECU harness side) and used it for my wideband setup so I didnt have to hack up the ECU harness.
The simulated narrowband signal wire off your wideband controller would get wired to the signal pin on the spare O2 connector. (wideband sends data to the controller, then the controller converts it to a narrowband signal and sends it to the O2 connector and then onto the stock ECU.
You should ground your wideband controller to the same ground the ECU uses to increase the accuracy of the signal (the pass. strut tower on a stock M20 wiring configuration for example) and in my experiences with an Innovate LC-1 controller, the +12v is really finnicky, Some people are able to use the ground and 12v from the o2 heater (shown on that o2 connector pinout) to power the controller, but on my car it gave me a low-voltage error and I had to wire it elsewhere. BUT, if you are looking for ideas of how to power your wideband controller, the o2 heater is one option. I ended up tapping into my defrost switch wire for power and it has worked flawlessly without low-voltage errors.
-
you shouldnt need the ECU pinout. I took an OE O2 sensor connector (the sensor side of the connector, not the ECU harness side) and used it for my wideband setup so I didnt have to hack up the ECU harness.
The simulated narrowband signal wire off your wideband controller would get wired to the signal pin on the spare O2 connector. (wideband sends data to the controller, then the controller converts it to a narrowband signal and sends it to the O2 connector and then onto the stock ECU.
You should ground your wideband controller to the same ground the ECU uses to increase the accuracy of the signal (the pass. strut tower on a stock M20 wiring configuration for example) and in my experiences with an Innovate LC-1 controller, the +12v is really finnicky, Some people are able to use the ground and 12v from the o2 heater (shown on that o2 connector pinout) to power the controller, but on my car it gave me a low-voltage error and I had to wire it elsewhere. BUT, if you are looking for ideas of how to power your wideband controller, the o2 heater is one option. I ended up tapping into my defrost switch wire for power and it has worked flawlessly without low-voltage errors.
PLX devices is fixing the brain now. Once I get it back I will be on this like white on rye!!!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
Today I should get the car back. For reals! I can't wait to hear the sounds from the orchestra from hell!!!!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
....Why are you putting in flexpiping..... this isn't a FWD car..
I want to take any unnecessary stress off of the manifold.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login