Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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nooooooo!!! hood exit needs to stay!!
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LOL
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I'm dropping off the car on Monday to get the exhaust work done.
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nooooooo!!! hood exit needs to stay!!
Sent from my piece of shit laptop using the internet
nooooooo!!! hood exit needs to stay!!
Sent from my piece of shit laptop using the internet
LOL
Haha
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
@DrLeadFoot
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Update:
The car is currently at the exhaust guys shop. Let the welding commence! I'm going 3" stainless all the way back to a straight through 3" in/out borla muffler. I'm getting a flex pipe welded into the downpipe along with 2 O2 sensor bungs and my one way valve for the CCV vacuum. V-band will connect the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust.
Once I get the car back I'm going to port and tap the valve cover for the CCV. Then we should be good!
As for the tune I'm in contact with TRM. I'm going to pressure test the system to be 100% sure I don't have any leaks then see what they can do to adjust the AFR.
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@DrLeadFoot
-
Update:
The car is currently at the exhaust guys shop. Let the welding commence! I'm going 3" stainless all the way back to a straight through 3" in/out borla muffler. I'm getting a flex pipe welded into the downpipe along with 2 O2 sensor bungs and my one way valve for the CCV vacuum. V-band will connect the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust.
Once I get the car back I'm going to port and tap the valve cover for the CCV. Then we should be good!
As for the tune I'm in contact with TRM. I'm going to pressure test the system to be 100% sure I don't have any leaks then see what they can do to adjust the AFR.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
What wideband sensor/controller are you getting?
If you get an Innovate LC-1/MTX-L you can run a simulated narrowband signal to the stock ecu which is more accurate than the narrowband. When I still had a Motronic ECU, I did this and it ran the best it ever did until it saw an extra 0.1V from the o2 sensor that it wasnt expecting and threw a CEL. That was before I figured out how to adjust the output values though. They can be adjusted to make sure they dont go out of limits for what the ECU is expecting to see.
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Update:
The car is currently at the exhaust guys shop. Let the welding commence! I'm going 3" stainless all the way back to a straight through 3" in/out borla muffler. I'm getting a flex pipe welded into the downpipe along with 2 O2 sensor bungs and my one way valve for the CCV vacuum. V-band will connect the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust.
Once I get the car back I'm going to port and tap the valve cover for the CCV. Then we should be good!
As for the tune I'm in contact with TRM. I'm going to pressure test the system to be 100% sure I don't have any leaks then see what they can do to adjust the AFR.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
What wideband sensor/controller are you getting?
If you get an Innovate LC-1/MTX-L you can run a simulated narrowband signal to the stock ecu which is more accurate than the narrowband. When I still had a Motronic ECU, I did this and it ran the best it ever did until it saw an extra 0.1V from the o2 sensor that it wasnt expecting and threw a CEL. That was before I figured out how to adjust the output values though. They can be adjusted to make sure they dont go out of limits for what the ECU is expecting to see.
I have the PLX Devices unit. It looks pretty smart. Do you know if this is capable of the same thing?
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@DrLeadFoot
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I have the PLX Devices unit. It looks pretty smart. Do you know if this is capable of the same thing?
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What resistor do you have to use?
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@DrLeadFoot
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I like the mudflaps, what brand are they?
Kamotors made them. He is on r3vlimited.com
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@DrLeadFoot
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Kamotors made them. He is on r3vlimited.com
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I am not even going to go there on this one!
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What resistor do you have to use?
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I never ran a resistor, but since I run Megasquirt now, I have no need to run simulated narrowband. I'd try it without a resistor first if you are going to give it a shot.
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Kamotors made them. He is on r3vlimited.com
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I am not even going to go there on this one!
Bad experience? He has always been good with my transactions.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Are they hard plastic? They look stiff, I have rallyarmor urethane ones and they are nice and bendy.
They are bendy.
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@DrLeadFoot
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What resistor do you have to use?
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I never ran a resistor, but since I run Megasquirt now, I have no need to run simulated narrowband. I'd try it without a resistor first if you are going to give it a shot.
Will do. Do you happen to have the pin #s for the ecu?
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@DrLeadFoot
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Oh, no he is a good guy. Some people just tend to think that he fabricates some of the things he sells himself and as such, they cannot be obtained anywhere else (intakes, mirrors, etc) which are actually just bulk purchased items from sites like Alibaba.com. The markup on those parts is pretty substantial. One can usually save big money by buying them elsewhere.
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The front is coming together!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Before I dropped it off at the exhaust guys shop.
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@DrLeadFoot
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you shouldnt need the ECU pinout. I took an OE O2 sensor connector (the sensor side of the connector, not the ECU harness side) and used it for my wideband setup so I didnt have to hack up the ECU harness.
The simulated narrowband signal wire off your wideband controller would get wired to the signal pin on the spare O2 connector. (wideband sends data to the controller, then the controller converts it to a narrowband signal and sends it to the O2 connector and then onto the stock ECU.
You should ground your wideband controller to the same ground the ECU uses to increase the accuracy of the signal (the pass. strut tower on a stock M20 wiring configuration for example) and in my experiences with an Innovate LC-1 controller, the +12v is really finnicky, Some people are able to use the ground and 12v from the o2 heater (shown on that o2 connector pinout) to power the controller, but on my car it gave me a low-voltage error and I had to wire it elsewhere. BUT, if you are looking for ideas of how to power your wideband controller, the o2 heater is one option. I ended up tapping into my defrost switch wire for power and it has worked flawlessly without low-voltage errors.
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you shouldnt need the ECU pinout. I took an OE O2 sensor connector (the sensor side of the connector, not the ECU harness side) and used it for my wideband setup so I didnt have to hack up the ECU harness.
The simulated narrowband signal wire off your wideband controller would get wired to the signal pin on the spare O2 connector. (wideband sends data to the controller, then the controller converts it to a narrowband signal and sends it to the O2 connector and then onto the stock ECU.
You should ground your wideband controller to the same ground the ECU uses to increase the accuracy of the signal (the pass. strut tower on a stock M20 wiring configuration for example) and in my experiences with an Innovate LC-1 controller, the +12v is really finnicky, Some people are able to use the ground and 12v from the o2 heater (shown on that o2 connector pinout) to power the controller, but on my car it gave me a low-voltage error and I had to wire it elsewhere. BUT, if you are looking for ideas of how to power your wideband controller, the o2 heater is one option. I ended up tapping into my defrost switch wire for power and it has worked flawlessly without low-voltage errors.
PLX devices is fixing the brain now. Once I get it back I will be on this like white on rye!!!
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@DrLeadFoot
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