Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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Anytime you need to do something on these motors it's basically "welp, better remove the intake and we'll see from there"
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MLS and O rings are used quite frequently in the import world, most domestic guys think you are crazy doing so, but results don't lie. I would have you block decked, and still do the surface prep like you did with the wd40. Going to a larger stud (1/2") is a great idea, especially with the larger 87mm bore you are using, but if a goal of 5-600whp is all you want, I wouldn't waste my time. I would go with a simple MLS gasket and mirror finish on block and head. As far as re using your old rods, I would absolutely do so. They have unlimited life for the most part, and can almost always be fixed. I would be willing to bet you don't even need to get them honed or resized, simply swap out bearings. As far as pistons go, check for skirt wear and make sure your PTW is still in spec, mainly deviation between cylinders. I'm willing to bet they are just fine. Because of the crappy tuning youve had in the past, I would be inclined to hone your block and get new rings, depending on how the bores look. Lastly, because your block and head will be decked/milled, I would look into adjustable cam gears so you can degree your cams in. Pick a head gasket that maintains proper quench of around .035-.050, but don't buy that until your block is back from being decked so you can measure from the top of the piston at TDC.
that should be all?
Looking great though!
sk8 or die
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Going to take the trans out first before pulling the engine. Trying to be kind to this e30 instead of ripping it out.
#H3GON3
I was going to pull the motor but I am going to quit while I'm ahead. I'll get the motor out this weekend.
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@DrLeadFoot
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very confused why you did that. It should take around 2 hours to pull the engine/trans together. Do you have a load leveler/friend to help?
I was wondering the same thing.
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I wanted to see how difficult it was to take out the trans. It took about 1 hour and I was taking my time.
Height is an issue as have to have my garage door open to make room for the hoist.
Excited to see what is going on in the engine!
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@DrLeadFoot
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All gold!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Pic for future reference.
Got the motor 99% ready to be pulled. Now I just have to find a place to put it!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Now I just have to find a place to put it!
I think Snap's got an engine stand for sale
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DrLeadFoot said:
Now I just have to find a place to put it!
I think Snap's got an engine stand for sale
Not anymore[emoji12]
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@DrLeadFoot
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All is quiet on the western front. My porch is 70% refurbished doe!
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@DrLeadFoot
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doe!
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For reference: http://www.crank-scrapers.com/bmw_m50-m54.html
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@DrLeadFoot
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Finally!!
The clutch removal was interesting. The dowel with the bolt head, pictured below was finger loose and was backed out about 2 full turns. Some of the others were a little loose but this was the worst one. SKETCH!
These allen bolts were loose as well. I will be calling UUC to see what the deal is. There can't be more than 3,000 miles on the clutch.
Obligatory owner in the engine bay pic.
@DrLeadFoot
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If you scroll up from the bottom it's like the engine is going back in!
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If you scroll up from the bottom it's like the engine is going back in!
It's just that easy!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Use loctite on the pressure plate hardware for sure. The clamping force of that pressure plate,the aluminum flywheel, and dissimilar metals makes for a good recipe for loss of torque.
Cant tell you how happy I am to see an update here. It gives me motivation
I'm excited to get it sorted out soon. The goal is to drop the engine to C&S Performance no later than February 15.
I'll have them make a torque block and straighten everything out.
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@DrLeadFoot
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