Joined the Club Today

[SteelBlue]

jc43089 said:

Long extensions and maybe with a wobble extension as the last one.  Don't use a universal, too wobbly.

You used all the pieces from the kit including the throwout bearing?

I used a Sachs throw out bearing because I heard the supplied ones are trash.

KaiserRolls said:

This is what it took for me

also with that gripforce kit use an OEM pilot/TOB if you can. The ones in the kit are less than ideal. (I have removed ones sitting on my bench with like 3k miles and they’re shot) 

I think I bought a new tob and pilot bearing based on your recommendation. You didn’t even loosen your Motor mounts? How was reinstalling the trans?

[KaiserRolls]

SteelBlue said:

 You didn’t even loosen your Motor mounts? How was reinstalling the trans?

I did not, there was still some play though. I will probably loosen them up for reinstall, which I am going to try and tackle this weekend

[suspenceful]

FYI - the two top transmission bolts on the 135i are the PITA to get to as well. Lee used a combo of extensions and a impact with some juice to get them off. Mitch's setup looks similar.

You can see it during the timelapse part of my clutch install video.

[KaiserRolls]

suspenceful said:

Lee used some juice to get them off. 

You can see it during my  video.

Saucy

[SteelBlue]

Delaying the inevitable...

3.25 LSD is in. Replaced fluid and RTV green gasketd the casing. Need to replace the speed sensor as this ones teeth were broken on the inside. Not a terribly difficult job, maybe will do the stud conversion in the future to make things easier.

Lighting brought to you courtesy of my new toy:

I am all in on Milwaukee. Love the tools, battery system, and as lame as it sounds, their branding(kudos to the marketing department).

Car will be heading to Legend Auto(hopefully tomorrow given trailer situations) to get the clutch issue worked out and the exhaust fabbed. I’m going to be gone all of next week and will be moving the following week, in addition to my doubts of being able to do the job itself, I am going to be leaving it to the professionals.

Possibly this winter or maybe the following, I plan to do a complete rear end rebuild. Reinforced subframe, subframe and trailing arm bushings, wheel bearings, parking brakes, axles, and maybe a differential rebuild. New shop space is gonna be great to work on the car in the off-season.

[Jdesign]

SteelBlue said:

I am all in on Milwaukee. Love the tools, battery system, and as lame as it sounds, their branding(kudos to the marketing department). DESIGN DEPARTMENT

I know 95% of the design team there.

[GunMetalGrey]

Jdesign said:

I know 95% of the design team there.

Do you also know the guy that makes diamond racing steelies?

[SteelBlue]

Jdesign said:

I know 95% of the design team there.

I really want to work there.

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

Do you also know the guy that makes diamond racing steelies?

I wish I did.

[SteelBlue]

Could I have a bad master cylinder? Went to push the car out of the garage today and pressed the brake pedal to have no brakes. I bleed the brakes before I had attempted to do the slave cylinder. Pool of brake fluid started under the car, jacked it up in the road to confirm that it was indeed coming from the sale cylinder and not somewhere else.

I thought these systems were independent? 

Here it is before going on the trailer. Looks good on the bottle caps, can’t wait to get the other wheels on.

[SteelBlue]

Not E30 content, but super stoked about this.

1984 Yamaha QT50.

[SteelBlue]

E30 update.

Legend bled the system 4 different ways add found that it did not fix the situation. I had bought a brake master cylinder off R3V thinking that might also be making a difference, but it did not. At least just checking another thing off the list. They bought a new slave cylinder, making it the third in the car. Did not solve the issue, but it hasn't ejected into the bell housing. They were able to pull the one that was in there out with a magnet, no pulling the bell housing...yet.

They found that the pedal box, the thing that all the pedals mount to under the dash, had a crack in it. They welded it back together. Did not fix the issue.

I'm being told that the clutch pedal does begin to disengage the clutch pedal until it is halfway down, the top of the pedal stroke is dead. Once it gets to the floor, it still needs to go further to fully disengage the clutch. They assumption is that the wrong clutch master cylinder was installed. And that might be correct, this is the one I purchased. I just realized the URL says E36 in it. It looks like this is the E30 one, link. I'm guessing I was probably looking through the E36 RealOEM catalog opposed to the E30 one. E36 drivetrain in E30 chassis means back and forth between the two a lot.

They are finishing fabbing the exhaust right now. If the issue for this whole scenario was that I just had the wrong clutch master cylinder, I would be ecstatic. Would a clutch master for an E36 opposed to an E30 make that much a difference?

I do still need a second O2 sensor. Also probably some issues that will arise, but I just want it to drive.

[straight6pwr]

SteelBlue said:

They are finishing fabbing the exhaust right now. If the issue for this whole scenario was that I just had the wrong clutch master cylinder, I would be ecstatic. Would a clutch master for an E36 opposed to an E30 make that much a difference?

well sure, if the stroke length is shorter or the cylinder volume is less, you arent moving enough fluid.

[Jdesign]

This^\

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

well sure, if the stroke length is shorter or the cylinder volume is less, you arent moving enough fluid. 

I can't remeber where I read it and am trying to confirm, but the E36 and E30 masters might be the same internally. But the slaves for an E36 M3 for a Zf and a 325/328 are different, non M have a smaller diameter that should push more fluid theoretically.

[straight6pwr]

another random thought - have you replaced the soft line in the system? maybe it is old and expanding too much?

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

another random thought - have you replaced the soft line in the system? maybe it is old and expanding too much?

It has been replaced with a condor SS braided line. I think I'm gonna have Legend just replace the master cylinder with the one. It's the one that is listed on RealOEM that supersedes the previous part numbers.

[straight6pwr]

tried some keyboard engineering. looks like the cylinder size of the e30 could possibly be longer? the fluid input location is closer to the pedal on the e30, if the online photos of the two part numbers are accurate.

although the 'throw' on a clutch pedal is fairly long, the engagement range between on/off is rather small, so i suppose I could see this making a difference.

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

tried some keyboard engineering. looks like the cylinder size of the e30 could possibly be longer? the fluid input location is closer to the pedal on the e30, if the online photos of the two part numbers are accurate.

although the 'throw' on a clutch pedal is fairly long, the engagement range between on/off is rather small, so i suppose I could see this making a difference.

Good to know. Hoping this is the issue and not that the fork isn't attached correctly or the clutch is on backwards or something that would require the trans to come off.

[straight6pwr]

SteelBlue said:

Good to know. Hoping this is the issue and not that the fork isn't attached correctly or the clutch is on backwards or something that would require the trans to come off.

i think i'd rather do a clutch job than a clutch master cylinder on an e30.