Shop Life 2.0
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This excerpt from one of the TE docs gives some idea of what the target condition should look like:
Aside from this, I also have the IPC-A-620 book sitting on my desk at work. The IPC spec lays out inspection criteria in excruciating detail. Wire doesn't extend past crimp area? Defect. Crimp extends to the edge of the crimp area on the insulation side so that there's no "bellmouth"? Defect. Wire nicked slightly while stripping? Defect. Basically, if it's not perfect, it's not good enough.
I'm on a couple "motorsports wiring" facebook groups, and if you even mention IPC on there, you'll pretty much get laughed at because it's not whatever MIL/NASA spec that those guys claim to be using. The money and time invested gets to be out of hand pretty quickly, but if you're spending crazy money to go racing it's cheap insurance vs getting a DNF because a crimp failed. I'm just shooting for something close to OEM standards...
In case anyone is interested, this is the most referenced page on the internet when it comes to "motorsports wiring": https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
Best part of the page IMO is the picture of this woman from the 40's with the bad-ass hair:
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Looks like the sign has landed on my car this year... Thanks @GunMetalGrey
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If I get the car to the picnic, it will be on a safe DIY tune. Once I prove out that everything is working properly, I'm hoping to rent dyno time somewhere and do the tuning myself. I guess it all depends on how comfortable I feel once I start dabbling with the tuning software. Conceptually, I have a good idea of what needs to happen, it just depends whether or not I feel confident executing the plan myself at that point.
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ECU mounted in a legitimate fashion. This is a first for me.
Our neighbor Woody dropped off this Hazard Fraught bead roller a year or two ago and said to try it out. It's been sitting around, untouched, ever since. I'm pretty sure he forgot that he even gave it to us. By mid-day Saturday I'd had enough of dealing with wiring and decided to work on the charge piping for a while to clear my head, so I set it up.
I feel a little bad complaining about it because it worked and it was free, but this thing is seriously bad. Out of the box, it felt like picking up on someone else's half-finished project. Didn't come with any kind of stand, nor did it really seem to have any provisions for attaching one. I guess you're supposed to clamp it in a vise? Doesn't really work with where our vise is. Aside from the obvious pinch-point on the business end, there are some nice chompy gears waiting for an opportunity to get you on the other end.
The edges of the female die was sharp enough to cut yourself on, so I had to chuck that up in the mini-lathe and used a file to round off the corners so they wouldn't cut into the pipe while it was being rolled. The irony of using a HF tool to fix another HF tool was not lost on me. It worked though, so that's one thing off my list.
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I also brought some stuff home to work on. Stayed after work today to re-clock the new turbo. As long as I had it apart, I decided to clean up the turbine casting in a couple spots that I didn't like. The other one that's not pictured is the inlet to the wastegate. It's just a hole drilled perpendicular into the side of the turbo, so I put a radius on the inlet side. Probably not a huge improvement, but it makes me feel better.
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someone else is watching AvE on youtube. nice BOLTR on the bead roller!
Dan
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Creating sanity from unsanity:
So, for most of the winter, this build has gone as follows:
Saturday: Show up at the shop, do some work maybe, drink some beer, enjoy life.
Sunday: Maybe do some work, then go home.
Monday/Tuesday: stress out about work that needs to be done / order parts.
Routing various gases and fluids from one place to another is basically plumbers work. Even though there have been hurdles to clear, the work that needs to get done has been pretty straight forward. No alarms, no surprises.
Then comes wiring the ECU.
My initial (last minute) plan and execution looked like this:
Aaaaand, fail. So far, every time I've attacked the wiring on this thing I've made some progress, then later realized that I've made some mistake. This is not sustainable, so I've decide that I need to back the truck up and do some actual planning:
Drawing this wiring diagram out has proven to be way more cathartic than dealing with a mass of wires draped across the engine bay. I still need to translate this into an actual harness diagram so that I know where the point A and point B of every wire is, but after that the actual execution should be pretty straight-forward...
Fail to plan, and then do some planning = success maybe.
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Your google photos aren’t showing up for me
Thought I could beat the system....
Fixed.
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I like your new diagram.
The 12v while cranking is usually sent to the unloader relay chassis side. -
ooo, pretty diagram. youll be rewarded by not having a spaghetti mess in the end and troubleshooting will be systematic instead of guesswork. you can put the time in now, or the time in later, but the time gods must have their fill.
Dan
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I like your new diagram.
The 12v while cranking is usually sent to the unloader relay chassis side.Exactly.
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Pretty sure e21s don't have an unloader relay, so that's easy.
Also considering getting a label printer for doing wire labels.
I have wire number labels, but I don't think they'll hold up well enough. I've heard clear shrink tube is a thing and works well for protecting labels...
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Wow I need to log in more often. This is sweet!!
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Printable heatshrink labels with clear heatshrink over it to protect it worked great on my harness.
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