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  4. Front Control Arm Bushing / Lollipop tool.

Front Control Arm Bushing / Lollipop tool.

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  • straight6pwrS
    straight6pwrS
    straight6pwr
    wrote on last edited by
    #3

    i was able to use a 3-jaw puller. I drilled a shallow hole on the end of the control arm stub to keep it from walking off.

    Dan
    yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • B
      B
      Boris3
      wrote on last edited by
      #4

      straight6pwr said:

      i was able to use a 3-jaw puller. I drilled a shallow hole on the end of the control arm stub to keep it from walking off.

      Doh, drilling a shallow hole...should have thought of that.

      I got mine off with a three jaw puller, but between the walking tool and not having a solid pull surface against the rubber (like the picture of the tool) and with only the jaws on the lollipop I tore up the CAB in the process. Might work for @Jdesign since his CABs are pretty much new.

      1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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      • HipMFH
        HipMFH
        HipMF
        wrote on last edited by
        #5

        Wait.... If the new bushings are already installed, what's the point in removing them?

        When I did my the front suspension on my 318, I did things the hard way and carefully sawed the old bushing and pulled it out. Then I used a vise and a 3lb hammer to slowly "press" in the new ones (clamp the bushing and lollipop as hard as possible in the vise, then smack the vice with the hammer to get the bushing to seat in 1/32"; repeat many times).

        Now that I'm a little older and a little wiser, I would never bother. Buy the bushing pre-installed in the lollipop and make you life easier.

        Bushings are new, but you need the lollipop? Trade someone for some shitty old ones, or just burn/cut them out. That Farm and Fleet puller in the picture will still be a PITA. Spend an extra hour at work next week to make up the cost, and save yourself 2 hours of dicking around at the shop. It pains me a little to say these things, but it's the truth.

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        • JdesignJ
          JdesignJ
          Jdesign
          wrote on last edited by
          #6

          straight6pwr said:

          i was able to use a 3-jaw puller. I drilled a shallow hole on the end of the control arm stub to keep it from walking off.

          I tried this first, but was unsuccessful, then I posted here.  

          Boris3 said:

          Doh, drilling a shallow hole...should have thought of that.

          I got mine off with a three jaw puller, but between the walking tool and not having a solid pull surface against the rubber (like the picture of the tool) and with only the jaws on the lollipop I tore up the CAB in the process. Might work for @Jdesign since his CABs are pretty much new.  

          And this i why I was unsuccessful. I saw the rubber start to flex and I didnt want to tear it. I might just make a plate to fit on the back side and use a 3 jaw.

          HipMF said:

          Wait.... If the new bushings are already installed, what's the point in removing them?

          When I did my the front suspension on my 318, I did things the hard way and carefully sawed the old bushing and pulled it out. Then I used a vise and a 3lb hammer to slowly "press" in the new ones (clamp the bushing and lollipop as hard as possible in the vise, then smack the vice with the hammer to get the bushing to seat in 1/32"; repeat many times).

          Now that I'm a little older and a little wiser, I would never bother. Buy the bushing pre-installed in the lollipop and make you life easier.

          Bushings are new, but you need the lollipop? Trade someone for some shitty old ones, or just burn/cut them out. That Farm and Fleet puller in the picture will still be a PITA. Spend an extra hour at work next week to make up the cost, and save yourself 2 hours of dicking around at the shop. It pains me a little to say these things, but it's the truth.

          The reason I want them off is I have Condor solid mount replacements. The control arms themselves are newer Lemforder units. I can easily remove them, but without the proper tool they will be destroyed.. The lollipop is not needed either.. here is what the replacement looks like:

          Image result for e30 lower control arm bushings

          SumBunny.jpg

          https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

          🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
          👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
          ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
          🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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          • straight6pwrS
            straight6pwrS
            straight6pwr
            wrote on last edited by
            #7

            i believe when the 3jaw started to stretch the rubber i tapped at the inner rubber sleeve with something dull to get it to start sliding. i just look at the lollipops/bushings in my bin and there are light marks on the backside where i tapped it.

            if your goal is to pull these and sell them, i'm wondering if its worth all this hassle for the value. plus, not many people use stock rubber bushings these days.

            Dan
            yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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            0
            • JdesignJ
              JdesignJ
              Jdesign
              wrote on last edited by
              #8

              Good idea. I didn't try very hard, then decided to check just to see if someone had a tool vs. wasting my efforts. 

              I was just planning on keeping them as spares. Not trying to sell them or anything.

              SumBunny.jpg

              https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

              🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
              👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
              ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
              🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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              • HipMFH
                HipMFH
                HipMF
                wrote on last edited by
                #9

                Ah, I see now. I've always just clamped the lollipop in a vice, then twist the arm back and forth while pulling on it. It takes some muscle and determination. Not much fun.

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                • JdesignJ
                  JdesignJ
                  Jdesign
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #10

                  HipMF said:

                  Ah, I see now. I've always just clamped the lollipop in a vice, then twist the arm back and forth while pulling on it. It takes some muscle and determination. Not much fun.

                  Depending on the car, Ive used an air chisel and just blasted them off while the control arm is still on the car. Takes less than 10 mins a side, but they are destroyed by the time you finish.

                  SumBunny.jpg

                  https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                  🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                  👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                  ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                  🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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                  0
                  • straight6pwrS
                    straight6pwrS
                    straight6pwr
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #11

                    also, you're going to love the solid mounts. not much penalty in comfort for some laser-like turn in, especially if you were coming from stock(centered) rubber bushings.

                    Dan
                    yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    2
                    • JdesignJ
                      JdesignJ
                      Jdesign
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #12

                      straight6pwr said:

                      also, you're going to love the solid mounts. not much penalty in comfort for some laser-like turn in, especially if you were coming from stock(centered) rubber bushings.

                      I cant wait. Im redoing all of the steering componets too, so im sure it will help. Z4 rack, new rods inner and outter, and new or "rebuilt" column.

                      SumBunny.jpg

                      https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                      🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                      👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                      ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                      🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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