Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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Ive attempted to use all the right sealants and ended up at the following personal mantra:
Black RTV on all gaskets and seals that touch oil, gray rtv on thermostat housings and warer pump gaskets, ans copper rtv on exhaust manifold gaskets.
black rtv is what I used on my transmission stuff
and please feel free to not take my advice/opinions.
i am generally a dummy
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Ive attempted to use all the right sealants and ended up at the following personal mantra:
Black RTV on all gaskets and seals that touch oil, gray rtv on thermostat housings and warer pump gaskets, ans copper rtv on exhaust manifold gaskets.
black rtv is what I used on my transmission stuff
and please feel free to not take my advice/opinions.
i am generally a dumb shit
So you're putting gray rtv on each side of the paper gaskets?
And you've used black rtv on the parts associated with the rear output shaft seal with success?
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yes. I run a “toothpick” bead or less on surfaces that have a paper gasket. I had to re-do a water pump replacement once because I tried to take the advice of “if both surfaces are clean then all you need is the paper gasket.
rubbish.
On the rear main seal gaskets Ive replaced I used black rtv.
If you are referring to the transmission rear output shaft seal then thats just a typical shaft seal, no rtv of course. The input shaft has the bolted flange that needs it though. The instruction to use some rtv/sealant on the splines is important. I will try to find an image or cutaway that shows why.
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yes. I run a “toothpick” bead or less on surfaces that have a paper gasket. I had to re-do a water pump replacement once because I tried to take the advice of “if both surfaces are clean then all you need is the paper gasket.
rubbish.
On the rear main seal gaskets Ive replaced I used black rtv.
If you are referring to the transmission rear output shaft seal then thats just a typical shaft seal, no rtv of course. The input shaft has the bolted flange that needs it though. The instruction to use some rtv/sealant on the splines is important. I will try to find an image or cutaway that shows why.
More and more people I've talked to have said they use some sealant on water gaskets, too. I'll be doing that as well, then.
And I noticed the input shaft had some sealant on the flange, so I'll get something for that. And then yes, the splines on the output shaft an the threads.
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This is what I was thinking of:
RTV is always going to make things a real PITA to remove and clean up again but then you ask yourself how soon will you actually be revisiting that area, 1 year, 5 years, never? so for me its worth the added cleanup/hassle if having to dive back into it.
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This is what I was thinking of:
RTV is always going to make things a real PITA to remove and clean up again but then you ask yourself how soon will you actually be revisiting that area, 1 year, 5 years, never? so for me its worth the added cleanup/hassle if having to dive back into it.
Those are all good points. I ordered the curil k2 stuff. I'm not in a big rush, and I can't afford to have to mess with that again. See what I do going forward with the other gaskets
I started taking some of the stuff apart last night on the trans to replace the seals and I noticed the TOB guide tube has some markings on it. I see ECS sell a replacement for $200 and can't seem to find them anywhere else, nor do any of the write ups mention it, making me think that not many people replace it. Thoughts? Or should I put some grease on it and call it a day?
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VR belongs in the dumpster. Good move
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Those are all good points. I ordered the curil k2 stuff. I'm not in a big rush, and I can't afford to have to mess with that again. See what I do going forward with the other gaskets
I started taking some of the stuff apart last night on the trans to replace the seals and I noticed the TOB guide tube has some markings on it. I see ECS sell a replacement for $200 and can't seem to find them anywhere else, nor do any of the write ups mention it, making me think that not many people replace it. Thoughts? Or should I put some grease on it and call it a day?
Have you been using a guide for putting things with gasket sealer and the like back on the motor? I’m about to be in this process soon and am not very well versed on these things. I don’t know what requires just the normal gaskets and what requires additional sealing? Having not read your past couple of posts, probably would have not know that there were additional sealers/materials that would need to be added to the input shaft, splines, etc.
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Have you been using a guide for putting things with gasket sealer and the like back on the motor? I’m about to be in this process soon and am not very well versed on these things. I don’t know what requires just the normal gaskets and what requires additional sealing? Having not read your past couple of posts, probably would have not know that there were additional sealers/materials that would need to be added to the input shaft, splines, etc.
Basically just lots of googling and asking. I got Curil K2 for all the transmission sealing and the Hylomar Blue for water and intake gaskets (at the recommendation of a friend). This thread was helpful with the transmission:
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Clutch is on, transmission is all sealed up. Need to put the transmission back on and after a couple small things it can go back in the car. I wanted to throw this out to anyone in the Milwaukee area. I wanted to put in a new starter right away since nows the time to do it. Found a place called MJ Electric that solely rebuilds starters and alternators. Disassembled, cleaned, painted, and fully rebuilt the starter for $95. $45 if you dont want it cleaned up.
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Good call, it's way better to have a local shop rebuild the starter, parts store reman ones are usually remanufactured in Malaysia, probably by a slave child, and in my experience don't last long. It's also cheaper as you found.
Also, nice all weather Volvo floor mats. I have the same ones.
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FINALLY. It was a PITA by myself, but I was super motivated to just hit a milestone on the car.
One question though. The E36 rack I put in came with both hoses from it. I thought line to the reservoir was the one you wanted to use from the e36 rack, but it appears this one does not fit. The rack is from a 99 M3 I believe.
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Question time. Working on the power steering. Got a rebuild kit from FCP for the pump. Didn't know there were 2 kinds of pumps: ZF and Vickers. I have a Vickers. So naturally the rebuild kit for a ZF pump didn't work with my pump.
What's the difference between the two? I think I'll just order a clean pump off Ebay, but will a ZF pump use the same brackets and everything as a Vickers?
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Question time. Working on the power steering. Got a rebuild kit from FCP for the pump. Didn't know there were 2 kinds of pumps: ZF and Vickers. I have a Vickers. So naturally the rebuild kit for a ZF pump didn't work with my pump.
What's the difference between the two? I think I'll just order a clean pump off Ebay, but will a ZF pump use the same brackets and everything as a Vickers?
Thats a really good question!
Sadly the internet says you'll have to buy the two brackets to convert it to a ZF.
The internet also says ZF is the way to go and easier to find parts for.
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Thats a really good question!
Sadly the internet says you'll have to buy the two brackets to convert it to a ZF.
The internet also says ZF is the way to go and easier to find parts for.
I ended up ordering a Vickers rebuild kit from the dealer. Supposedly only 3 of them left in the US.
Tonight I got the rest of the shifter back together and the new knob in. While going through the gears I feel like the shift from 2nd to 3rd is a lot shorter than the shift from 4th to 5th. Less moving the shifter sideways if that makes sense. Is that normal? These transmissions are new to me, so I'm not entirely sure what they're "supposed" to feel like.
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