BMW Sienna 2.5i build
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Your problem solving skills are top notch, loving the updates!
How about adding a large sch 80 pipe section for the tie rod to pass through, then adding a torch cut 1/2” plate rib on top and below for reinforcement
I like that idea. I was thinking of offsetting the tie rod ends up with a block, but I looked at it last night and the end of the rack actually goes in almost 2" when at full lock and if I extended 2" before offsetting it would be too wide and hit the subframe at full lock anyway. I think boxing it like that with pipe is what i will have to do. Where there's a welder, there is a way. I just have to do some careful measuring so the tie rod won't hit the tube at any point in the suspension travel.
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Still working on the steering setup. I did some good figuring last night. It's been slow progress lately, with a 1 month old and butchering some hogs before it gets too warm for them to hang in the barn.
Funny story, my 5 year old is helping scrape the hair off and asks "can we eat the bacon today?"
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City boy checking in: cannot relate

Bacon comes from hogs, salt the belly, smoke the belly, then slice it and it's bacon. Nom nom nom!
After killing the hog you scald it in a barrel of 150ish degree water and the hair scrapes off, then gut it and hang it for a few days.
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I can totally relate. I grew up working at my grandpa's butcher shop.

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Looks right at home
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Looks like a ton of room on the sides!
There is loads more room on the sides and about the same front to back as it was in an e36. WAY easier to install exhaust manifolds than in an e36.
Radiator question. The stock Toyota radiator is thin, only 7/8" core, should I just run it because the Toyota engine was a similar horsepower so it should have enough cooling capability? The only problem I can think of is that the reduced fluid volume will not be as nice. The BMW radiator would kinda fit but I would be making custom straps to hold it and it would not be able to quick release anyway because it is under the top of the core support rather than behind it. Pros for keeping the stock radiator is that it fits perfect, and the shrouding for airflow is already designed for it. I guess the fan might just cycle more with the reduced fluid volume.
Thoughts?
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There is loads more room on the sides and about the same front to back as it was in an e36. WAY easier to install exhaust manifolds than in an e36.
Radiator question. The stock Toyota radiator is thin, only 7/8" core, should I just run it because the Toyota engine was a similar horsepower so it should have enough cooling capability? The only problem I can think of is that the reduced fluid volume will not be as nice. The BMW radiator would kinda fit but I would be making custom straps to hold it and it would not be able to quick release anyway because it is under the top of the core support rather than behind it. Pros for keeping the stock radiator is that it fits perfect, and the shrouding for airflow is already designed for it. I guess the fan might just cycle more with the reduced fluid volume.
Thoughts?People run these 24v swaps all the time with a 318 radiator.
Run it & see
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Thats a tough call.
powerful stock fan + proper shrouds are a compelling argument to stay stock but my gut says its easier to resist heating up with more water capacity than it is to remove heat by convection.
I was planning to use one or 2 Spal puller fans, the stock fan is PWM controlled from the Toyota ECU and is excessively thick so it would hit my water pump shaft. I could remove the threaded end of my water pump but it's already installed.
What about this. A tank that will add volume to the system, although I would think to install it on the cold side of the radiator and have the fan switch right at the radiator outlet. Somewhat like an E type Jaguar.

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People run these 24v swaps all the time with a 318 radiator.
Run it & see
Yea, it would probably be just fine. I have a Stewart water pump too which helps.
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since you cant receive pics on your potato phone

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This is what im sending since you cant receive pics on your potato phone. So hopefully you see this later on your toaster
Woah so shiny!
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my gut says its easier to resist heating up with more water capacity than it is to remove heat by convection.
If the cooling system isn't large enough to dissipate heat at an equal or greater rate than the engine is capable of putting out, then I think you're asking for trouble. Not that I envision this thing getting flogged continuously for a long periods of time, but adding more coolant capacity as "ballast" still seems like a half-ass solution.
That being said, I'd wager that the van's stock radiator is fine.
Edit: Actually, you're more likely to overheat sitting in traffic than anywhere else, due to lack of airflow. But again, extra coolant capacity might buy you a little time, but it doesn't solve the problem.
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I know, I've been busy with work, 3 kids, gardening, chickens, hogs, and house projects. This will get done though. I have been working a little here and there with getting the steering system situated. The parts from Snap are going to work excellent. I am working next on machining some parts for offsetting the inner tie rods up to avoid hitting the subframe. I think it will work good, hopefully it turns out in real life like it looks in my head.
The oldest and youngest chillin with the hogs.

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