Alpine e30 progress/build thread
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Started working on cleaning up the e39 530i engine wire harnesses. Everything is sleeved in the ribbed plastic tubing and it has worn through or cracked in a lot of places so I am redoing the entire harness in this braided harness wrap. Looks much nicer, but it is super tedious. Just waiting on the vanos oil feed line and the oil pump parts and I should be able to seal it up and start wiring.
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Are you using split loom or are you depinning all of the connectors and sliding in normal loom?
Split loom, I got the amazon link from KaiserRolls' thread, I'm pretty pleased with it so far.
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Split loom, I got the amazon link from KaiserRolls' thread, I'm pretty pleased with it so far.
I didn't realize they made that stuff in split loom!
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Moving along slowly, but progress is progress. Installed a new VANOS oil feed line, bolted the front sump oil pickup tube to the pump, and started working on fitting the e46 oil level sensor to the e34 oil pan. I scraped the old seal out and replaced it with a new o-ring, but it turns out the studs on the pan are too short so I'll have to replace them with longer ones. Cleaned up and painted a few more brackets as well, but didn't get any pictures.
I also got the m42 ready to pull. Everything is drained and disconnected, motor mounts unbolted, only thing left is to unbolt the trans mounts and hoist it out. Hoping to get it out by mid-week so I can start on the ABS delete/booster swap/etc.
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Why cant the E34 level sensor be used?
What booster are you going to use?
The plug on the e46 harness is different than the e34, and since I don't have a pigtail for the e34 sensor my initial plan was to delete it with a delete plate. Once I found that the e46 sensor is a direct bolt in to the e34 pan with longer studs I figured why not. I compared the two, and the oil level measuring points are pretty similar so it should be somewhat accurate. Initially, it won't have any functionality as the signal comes from the ECU and is communicated through CAN bus (that and I don't have a check panel), but there is a module than can convert the CAN signals to usable outputs. I'm pretty much just setting myself up for future projects.
For the booster I'll be using one from an e21 that I got from DrLeadFoot
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I use an old school device called a “dipstick” to check my oil level. All I get out of the deal is a light that’s always glowing on the check panel
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Got some things done this week. I swapped the oil pump inner rotor over to the Achilles harneded oil pump shaft, just waiting on a new pressure relief spring and o-ring and I can get the oil pump buttoned up.
Ebay had a sale so I picked up some VDO vision gauges to keep a closer eye on the new engine. Oil temp, oil pressure, and water temp gauges. I've had a console mounting plate sitting around for a while so I did a quick mock-up, should look fairly factory! I may color the cluster needles orange to make everything match, but that'll be a project for some other time.
Biggest progress is the m42 is now sitting on the floor of my garage. So much room for activities!
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What else needs to be done on the engine/trans to be ready to install it? What trans are you using anyhow?
Keep up the great work! Perhaps you will find more deer blood at this level of disassembly
I have definitely found some hair, there was A LOT so I'll probably keep finding it forever... hoping to keep the fluids at a minimum haha. Trans is a ZF 5-speed.
Things I can think of remaining on the engine before I install it:
- Rear main seal
- Reassemble and prime oil pump
- Acquire/Install oil pan baffle (debating this one still)
- Reinstall oil pan
- Reinstall P/S pump and serpentine belt
- Modify oil filter housing (just filing down a rib) and install oil distribution block for pressure/temp gauge senders
- Clean and paint harmonic balancer, its a little crusty
- Modify driver's side engine mount arm so I can get the 4th bolt in (or get a later arm with the slotted hole that works)
- Install main/secondary engine harness (Remove auto-trans wiring from secondary harness)
- Clean up starter
- Clean trans (it's filthy) and replace shift shaft seal/selector rod joint
- Replace shift detent pins
- Resurface flywheel and pressure plate
- Probably a million other things
Probably going to have to re-adjust my picnic goal as I'll be out of town for at least 2 weekends between now and then, but I'd rather do that than cut corners to get it done. It'll be on the road this summer for sure!
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Probably going to have to re-adjust my picnic goal as I'll be out of town for at least 2 weekends between now and then, but I'd rather do that than cut corners to get it done. It'll be on the road this summer for sure!
My thoughts exactly. I hate rushing things and having to revisit them later. Do it right the first time I always say.
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My thoughts exactly. I hate rushing things and having to revisit them later. Do it right the first time I always say.
Agreed. I did a bit of rushing on some things last winter since I was hell bent on making it there, but now I'd like to take the time to fix those things and do it all right. Like last year I wired the electronic fan to be on with the ignition all the time as a quick 'get it done', which was annoying all summer, so now I'm going to re-wire it to a temp switch with a manual override like I should've in the first place.
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interested in seeing how your manual override works. My plan is just to not overheat.
I was just planning to do a switch in the cabin in the event I want it on (like for cooling down the engine bay before working on it, waiting in an auto-x grid, etc). I have the fan running on a relay, and basically you have two switches (temp and manual toggle/latching) connected to ground in parallel that can close the relay independently of each other.
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I just have the 2 temp fan switch. I have individual weatherpack connectors on the 91C and the 99C wires of the switch so I can experiment with both. Ideally I should just put in a manual override switch but I will save that project for another day (after I overheat).
Which fan will you be using? I am using the Spal 16" 30101517 with it wired on the high speed fan circuit
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I just have the 2 temp fan switch. I have individual weatherpack connectors on the 91C and the 99C wires of the switch so I can experiment with both. Ideally I should just put in a manual override switch but I will save that project for another day (after I overheat).
Which fan will you be using? I am using the Spal 16" 30101517 with it wired on the high speed fan circuit
Last summer I had the deep profile/curved blade 16" Spal puller (30102049) combined with a shroud and it moved a huge amount of air. I was hoping there would be some way I could fit it and not have to buy a different fan... there is no way that's going to happen so I'll likely move to a 16" pusher (the same one as you)
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All manual all the time for me. It’s easy to get in the habit of flipping it on and off if you’re as paranoid as I am about the temp gauge
I also drive with the heat blasting most of the summer with the sunroof cracked open
Eat your heart out slick top circle jerkers
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