BMW Sienna 2.5i build

[Jdesign]

Could you just source a radiator from another car that has dimensions and outlets that you need?

[YoungCR]

If you'd be interested in a E34 expansion tank I have 2. Not sure what kind of space you have to work with but they mount on the firewall.

[jc43089]

YoungCR said:

If you'd be interested in a E34 expansion tank I have 2. Not sure what kind of space you have to work with but they mount on the firewall.

I might be, are those similar to an e32 style where it is above the engine on the firewall?

More pictures soon.  I got the clutch pedal/MC and a bunch of AN fittings to get through the firewall.  I got some 1/4" Cunifer tubing for a fuel return line.  There is no access door under the carpet so I have to drop the fuel tank, that should be exciting, it's about 3/4 full I think.  Yesterday after work I cut the CV axles off right by the outer joint so I could spin the cage sideways and get the balls and cage out.  I will be reinstalling just the cup part with the spindle to hold the front wheel bearings together.  They also have the tone ring for the ABS so I have a small chance of the ABS still working.

[Jdesign]

PICTURES PLEASEEEE 

[jc43089]

Perfectly good CV axles chopped off.

I might trim these off right behind the tone ring.

Not a ton of room trying to fit a clutch pedal.

And this is why I need a reverse mount, the wheel well and strut tower are so close to the firewall that there is no room at all.

[Daggerty]

Not the number one choice but you could cut an access panel for fuel pump activities. After removing the seats and carpet it may be a wash

[jc43089]

Daggerty said:

Not the number one choice but you could cut an access panel for fuel pump activities. After removing the seats and carpet it may be a wash

I might do that anyway, for next time. I don't know exactly where the pump is or how close to the floor it is so I was concerned about damaging hoses and wiring. It looks easy to get out thankfully.

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[B C]

Those are the front axle stubs, correct?

You need to take the van to a toyota dealership when its done and have them do an oil change and get it on camera. We can crowdfund it

[jc43089]

El Snapo said:

Those are the front axle stubs, correct?
You need to take the van to a toyota dealership when its done and have them do an oil change and get it on camera. We can crowdfund it
 

Yes, I did end up parting them off in a lathe .080 past the tone ring. I installed them last night, they worked great. I've thought about what service I should ask for at a Toyota dealer. The confusion would be priceless.

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[Earl]

Are you planning to run a straight axle out back or will you be fitting the rear subframe out of something?

[jc43089]

Earl said:

Are you planning to run a straight axle out back or will you be fitting the rear subframe out of something?

Keeping the stock Toyota rear stuff for now, it was an AWD model, so time will tell how the differential and axles hold up, they look decently sturdy.

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[Earl]

Ah. Here I somehow forgot and thought it was FWD. Carry on=)

[jc43089]

I cut the CV axle stubs off in a lathe.  Unsprung weight savings. 

Made some cool paper weights after cleaning up the grease too.

[B C]

the lathed stubs are nice!  you also need to troll siennachat.com, join up, and say that you just bought a van and ask what kind of clutch hydraulic fluid people are running in their siennas

[jc43089]

El Snapo said:

the lathed stubs are nice!  you also need to troll siennachat.com, join up, and say that you just bought a van and ask what kind of clutch hydraulic fluid people are running in their siennas 

Good call, I casually mentioned it in the "What did you do to your gen 2 today" section.

[jc43089]

I dropped the fuel tank last night, what a nightmare when it is half full.  I didn't figure out until i had it on the ground how to drain it.  The fill tube enters the tank down low, it comes off but there is a check valve inside so no fuel comes out.  I couldn't see the check valve until I got the tank down.  Then I stuck a screwdriver in to hold the check valve open and tipped the whole thing to pour fuel into a drain pan a couple gallons at a time and dump it into my car.  Now I need to clean it off and figure out where to add my fuel return fitting.  I got 1/4" line for the return, I would think that is plenty?  While I have access I am going to test the pump output pressure and flow to make sure I don't need to swap in something different.

[B C]

1/4" sounds fine to me, 

I would expect the pump to be just right as it was fueling 230hp before.

When are you going to splice the driveshafts together? I will be interested to see that

[jc43089]

snap said:

1/4" sounds fine to me, 

I would expect the pump to be just right as it was fueling 230hp before.

When are you going to splice the driveshafts together? I will be interested to see that

With the pump I just mean will it work ok because it was a non return system that will now be a return style.  If it has a pressure regulator integrated to the pump and the pressure is higher than the 3.5 bar regulator on my fuel rail then it should just never open and all will be well.  But if the pump is PWM controlled like my Volvo and other newer cars then I might have to do something different, or just see what it does with straight 12V.  Some part listings show "W/O pressure sensor"  so I'm not sure.

[jc43089]

Great news!  The fuel pump is just a regular motor/pump with a fuel pressure regulator right in the pump bucket.  However the regulator discharge shoots through a venturi which draws fuel from outside the pump bucket in to keep the bucket full at all times until the tank is completely empty.  And the FPR is too low of pressure.  So I will machine a plug to cap the hole where the FPR is supposed to go and fabricate a connection so my returning fuel goes through the venturi and it should work great.  I fail at pictures, I switched back to a flip phone and it takes pictures that aren't worth looking at.  I will have to bust out the old Canon powershot.

Also I was missing the bolt that holds the vanos spline piece to the end of the M54 cam, it is not listed separately as a part so you can't buy one.  A socket head cap screw would work but I would have to machine some of the head off to make it short enough though and then engagement of the allen wrench isn't good.  I found that an ARP bolt will work perfect though, so I ordered a pack of M10x1.5mm x 60mm long, I have 4 spares if anyone else is dumb enough to lose one of those bolts...

[B C]

Nice! Is that vanos screw the one with the left hand threads??