FuturisticConcept Art BMW E36 with a V8 on a bottom dollar budget

[Jdesign]

Jdesign said:

The guy at Hyquip said it should be good for up to 3000psi, I don't know if I believe him, but it certainly was a bitch to get on like all push-lok lines.

Well I guess he was wayyy off. 

[HipMF]

Jdesign said:

Please do!!!!.

I know that most auto parts stores have a press that can make them behind the counter, but this line they were unable to make. Once I get it out of the car I will post a picture of the actual line. Its half OEM Ford and half OEM BMW.

No one knew what I was talking about, so I must have made the whole thing up. Only suggestions I got were to check the farm equipment/bobcat places. Maybe call one of the equipment rental places and ask them where they go for stuff like that?

[Jdesign]

HipMF said:

No one knew what I was talking about, so I must have made the whole thing up. Only suggestions I got were to check the farm equipment/bobcat places. Maybe call one of the equipment rental places and ask them where they go for stuff like that?

Yeah. So since I am located on the outskirts of Madison surrounded by farms, the auto parts store by me makes hydro lines, but could not make the line I need. They suggested Hyquip, which was a good suggestion, but they couldn't make it either. Instead they suggested doing what I did, and sold me some fittings, but it still continues to fail.

[The Full Banana]

I've gone both routes before with success either way. I can see the fittings failing if they are the standard sort of AN fitting, but proper high pressure reusable PS fittings have worked really well for me. I bought high pressure power steering fittings and hose on ebay and made my own line on my first swap (which I put about 13,000 miles on). The second time around I went to Hyquip on 124th in Butler and had them make a similar line, but with crimp fittings, while I waited (and that one has 3,000 miles or so on it now). Why wouldn't Hyquip do it?

[Jdesign]

The Full Banana said:

I've gone both routes before with success either way. I can see the fittings failing if they are the standard sort of AN fitting, but proper high pressure reusable PS fittings have worked really well for me. I bought high pressure power steering fittings and hose on ebay and made my own line on my first swap (which I put about 13,000 miles on). The second time around I went to Hyquip on 124th in Butler and had them make a similar line, but with crimp fittings, while I waited (and that one has 3,000 miles or so on it now). Why wouldn't Hyquip do it?

Its because of the type of fittings I assume? Hyquip in Madison didn't stock anything in the sizes I needed. Maybe I will look online to make my own. I also have a really low non-existent budget, so at this point I might just spend the money on AN fittings and line so I never have to touch it again. Spending 20 mins cleaning a huge mess on the floor gets old FAST.

[Tkuhn]

Jdesign said:

Added some of the matte/ gloss vinyl and used the car to haul some wooden tire racks I built.

Blew the PS line apart again. Of course it happened right when I got into the shop. ughhhhhhhhhhhh.

Where can I go to get a custom line made? I really dont want to use AN fittings and this is super annoying. the place that I took this too makes HP hydro lines and they said this should hold 1000 PSI. LIESSSSSSS 

Message chase bays, they make custom lines as well as pre made kits for some stuff. Unfortunately they usually take awhile but the products are so good lol

[Jdesign]

Tkuhn said:

Message chase bays, they make custom lines as well as pre made kits for some stuff. Unfortunately they usually take awhile but the products are so good lol

Ehhhh. Thanks for the suggestion, but not worth it. I dont have anything against chase bays but I rather do it locally, not spend what they would charge, and risk errors and deal with waiting and shipping it back etc. 

Parker might be able to make it, im going to try there next. I wasn't aware until last night there there was a Parker store a few blocks from Hyquip. Weird they didnt send me there. 

[Daggerty]

Pirtek in Menominee falls will be able to do it. I'm 85.3% sure I have the crimping tool for hydraulic lines I can check if you want to make it yourself.

[Jdesign]

Daggerty said:

Pirtek in Menominee falls will be able to do it. I'm 85.3% sure I have the crimping tool for hydraulic lines I can check if you want to make it yourself.

Where were all of you guys with suggestions months ago why I was struggling to make the first hose? Please look that would make my life easier.

[Tkuhn]

Jdesign said:

Ehhhh. Thanks for the suggestion, but not worth it. I dont have anything against chase bays but I rather do it locally, not spend what they would charge, and risk errors and deal with waiting and shipping it back etc. 

Parker might be able to make it, im going to try there next. I wasn't aware until last night there there was a Parker store a few blocks from Hyquip. Weird they didnt send me there. 

Fair enough haha. Yea there's one on silver spring tucked back in a strip mall.

[Jdesign]

Just got back from the parker store. Super nice guy, gave me the fittings I need and hose for free (for now). I have to measure for a perfect fit, and come back so he can crimp it together and make the perfect line. It was slightly tricky for him too because one end is american and the other is metric.

[Jdesign]

Got the line back in last night and re-bled the brakes. I didn't drive it though because I was too lazy to unload the 3 sets of wheels on the roof.

I will say that the hydro line that I had made turned out so awesome that I was so excited to install it that I forgot to take pictures.  Im sure no one will be interested in what a $113 high pressure power steering line looks like anyways. On a side note, that is also probably the most I have spent on 1 single part on this car. 

Pics I do have:

The orange tape was for the length mock-up, a different type of hose was actually used. The metal portion under the tape (as seen in the first picture) was compressed with a special press to hold the line into the fittings on both ends and complete the process.

[Jdesign]

I drove this to work a few days ago because my civic decided to toss an axle about. I realized some more things I need to address.

1. The heat doesnt work for shit. 
2. The rear end has a bad bushing or something somewhere as it tosses itself about over larger bumps and cracks in the road
3. The seat belts still dont work well, I need to get a harness bar and install the harnesses.

[jc43089]

Check RTABs and the outer ball joints.  I put in poly RTABs and that fixed most of the loose feeling, I need to replace the outer upper ball joint on one side too but the RTABs make it feel really loose because of toe changes.  How about your lollipop bushings in front?  You should replace with OE centered m3 bushings, they are similar except much more rubber than the non m.  And really cheap too.  They come in pairs usually FYI.

[GunMetalGrey]

Jdesign said:

I drove this to work a few days ago because my civic decided to toss an axle about. I realized some more things I need to address.

1. The heat doesnt work for shit. It's an E36, isn't that how they were from factory?
2. The rear end has a bad bushing or something somewhere as it tosses itself about over larger bumps and cracks in the road See Pats signature
3. The seat belts still dont work well, I need to get a harness bar and install the harnesses. Safety first kids!

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

Check RTABs and the outer ball joints.  I put in poly RTABs and that fixed most of the loose feeling, I need to replace the outer upper ball joint on one side too but the RTABs make it feel really loose because of toe changes.  How about your lollipop bushings in front?  You should replace with OE centered m3 bushings, they are similar except much more rubber than the non m.  And really cheap too.  They come in pairs usually FYI.

This is my assumption as well, Rtabs will be the first, but I will do the rear sub frame bushings too. I was considering just making my own out of delrin or aluminum.. All the front suspension is new, and I have poly lolli spares if needed.

[jc43089]

Jdesign said:

This is my assumption as well, Rtabs will be the first, but I will do the rear sub frame bushings too. I was considering just making my own out of delrin or aluminum.. All the front suspension is new, and I have poly lolli spares if needed.

In the rear the stock RTABs are rubber, poly would be a good choice but a hard material might not be because there is some twisting required as the suspension compresses.  Poly ones are easy to install because they don't have to be pressed in. 

Upper and lower control arms have bushings on the inside, they are pretty hard and not much rubber there so doubtful those would be a problem.  Outside has a ball joint on the upper and a bushing on the lower for non M and ball joints on both outer ends for M cars.  Supposedly you can put the same ball joint that is in the outer upper joint in the lower on non M cars as well.  I have 2 of them and will find out hopefully this week.

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

In the rear the stock RTABs are rubber, poly would be a good choice but a hard material might not be because there is some twisting required as the suspension compresses.  Poly ones are easy to install because they don't have to be pressed in. 

Upper and lower control arms have bushings on the inside, they are pretty hard and not much rubber there so doubtful those would be a problem.  Outside has a ball joint on the upper and a bushing on the lower for non M and ball joints on both outer ends for M cars.  Supposedly you can put the same ball joint that is in the outer upper joint in the lower on non M cars as well.  I have 2 of them and will find out hopefully this week.

Honestly in a apocalyptic world, none of this would be accessible. I think Im just going to weld in steel beems for struts and shocks and never worry about anything moving at all besides the sidewalls of the tires. 

In all seriousness, thanks for the knowledge! Rouge and Turner make Rtabs that use spherical bearings in aluminum housings. These allow the articulation you mentioned as I am sure you are aware. Everything else is just a linear axis so simple turned parts on a lathe would be easy to make.

[Jdesign]

Slacking as I havent done much but help others with their projects.

I just stopped in this thread to realize I never mentioned that I bought Earls centerline Hawks off of his daily. As some of you may know I already had a set of the same wheels but in 3pc rivets. I originally was going to use these but the rear are not as wide as These 1pcs Earl had. I have intentions to mount them to this car but I think I need to paint or plastidip them. The polished look is obviously "too much" for this car and the theme I have going. So I photoshopped some color ideas after I test mounted them to the car.

**Note the images are compressed and the quality is suffering from this**

1.Spray the whole wheel with transparent red and put a red pin stripe on the tire

2.plastidip the whole wheel with black and put a red pin stripe on the tire

3.Spray the wheels with a matte black face and a gloss black lip

4.Spray the wheels with a full gloss black or a transparent black

5.Spray the wheels with a transparent red

6.Spray the wheels with a matte black face and a transparent red lip

7.This is what they look like currently

What are your guys Thoughts?

I also need to fix the heat. I think the coolant valve in the engine bay quit working so I barely get heat in the cabin which sucks. I really wanted to go get a Xmas tree with the roof rack on this thing.

[Bassboy3313]

Out of the choices, #3 looks the best imo.