FuturisticConcept Art BMW E36 with a V8 on a bottom dollar budget
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Pirtek in Menominee falls will be able to do it. I'm 85.3% sure I have the crimping tool for hydraulic lines I can check if you want to make it yourself.
Where were all of you guys with suggestions months ago why I was struggling to make the first hose? Please look that would make my life easier.
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Ehhhh. Thanks for the suggestion, but not worth it. I dont have anything against chase bays but I rather do it locally, not spend what they would charge, and risk errors and deal with waiting and shipping it back etc.
Parker might be able to make it, im going to try there next. I wasn't aware until last night there there was a Parker store a few blocks from Hyquip. Weird they didnt send me there.

Fair enough haha. Yea there's one on silver spring tucked back in a strip mall.
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Just got back from the parker store. Super nice guy, gave me the fittings I need and hose for free (for now). I have to measure for a perfect fit, and come back so he can crimp it together and make the perfect line. It was slightly tricky for him too because one end is american and the other is metric.
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Got the line back in last night and re-bled the brakes. I didn't drive it though because I was too lazy to unload the 3 sets of wheels on the roof.
I will say that the hydro line that I had made turned out so awesome that I was so excited to install it that I forgot to take pictures.
Im sure no one will be interested in what a $113 high pressure power steering line looks like anyways. On a side note, that is also probably the most I have spent on 1 single part on this car. Pics I do have:
The orange tape was for the length mock-up, a different type of hose was actually used. The metal portion under the tape (as seen in the first picture) was compressed with a special press to hold the line into the fittings on both ends and complete the process.
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I drove this to work a few days ago because my civic decided to toss an axle about. I realized some more things I need to address.
- The heat doesnt work for shit.
- The rear end has a bad bushing or something somewhere as it tosses itself about over larger bumps and cracks in the road
- The seat belts still dont work well, I need to get a harness bar and install the harnesses.
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Check RTABs and the outer ball joints. I put in poly RTABs and that fixed most of the loose feeling, I need to replace the outer upper ball joint on one side too but the RTABs make it feel really loose because of toe changes. How about your lollipop bushings in front? You should replace with OE centered m3 bushings, they are similar except much more rubber than the non m. And really cheap too. They come in pairs usually FYI.
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I drove this to work a few days ago because my civic decided to toss an axle about. I realized some more things I need to address.
- The heat doesnt work for shit. It's an E36, isn't that how they were from factory?
- The rear end has a bad bushing or something somewhere as it tosses itself about over larger bumps and cracks in the road See Pats signature
- The seat belts still dont work well, I need to get a harness bar and install the harnesses. Safety first kids!
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Check RTABs and the outer ball joints. I put in poly RTABs and that fixed most of the loose feeling, I need to replace the outer upper ball joint on one side too but the RTABs make it feel really loose because of toe changes. How about your lollipop bushings in front? You should replace with OE centered m3 bushings, they are similar except much more rubber than the non m. And really cheap too. They come in pairs usually FYI.
This is my assumption as well, Rtabs will be the first, but I will do the rear sub frame bushings too. I was considering just making my own out of delrin or aluminum.. All the front suspension is new, and I have poly lolli spares if needed.
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This is my assumption as well, Rtabs will be the first, but I will do the rear sub frame bushings too. I was considering just making my own out of delrin or aluminum.. All the front suspension is new, and I have poly lolli spares if needed.
In the rear the stock RTABs are rubber, poly would be a good choice but a hard material might not be because there is some twisting required as the suspension compresses. Poly ones are easy to install because they don't have to be pressed in.
Upper and lower control arms have bushings on the inside, they are pretty hard and not much rubber there so doubtful those would be a problem. Outside has a ball joint on the upper and a bushing on the lower for non M and ball joints on both outer ends for M cars. Supposedly you can put the same ball joint that is in the outer upper joint in the lower on non M cars as well. I have 2 of them and will find out hopefully this week.
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In the rear the stock RTABs are rubber, poly would be a good choice but a hard material might not be because there is some twisting required as the suspension compresses. Poly ones are easy to install because they don't have to be pressed in.
Upper and lower control arms have bushings on the inside, they are pretty hard and not much rubber there so doubtful those would be a problem. Outside has a ball joint on the upper and a bushing on the lower for non M and ball joints on both outer ends for M cars. Supposedly you can put the same ball joint that is in the outer upper joint in the lower on non M cars as well. I have 2 of them and will find out hopefully this week.
Honestly in a apocalyptic world, none of this would be accessible. I think Im just going to weld in steel beems for struts and shocks and never worry about anything moving at all besides the sidewalls of the tires.

In all seriousness, thanks for the knowledge! Rouge and Turner make Rtabs that use spherical bearings in aluminum housings. These allow the articulation you mentioned as I am sure you are aware. Everything else is just a linear axis so simple turned parts on a lathe would be easy to make.
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Slacking as I havent done much but help others with their projects.
I just stopped in this thread to realize I never mentioned that I bought Earls centerline Hawks off of his daily. As some of you may know I already had a set of the same wheels but in 3pc rivets. I originally was going to use these but the rear are not as wide as These 1pcs Earl had. I have intentions to mount them to this car but I think I need to paint or plastidip them. The polished look is obviously "too much" for this car and the theme I have going. So I photoshopped some color ideas after I test mounted them to the car.
**Note the images are compressed and the quality is suffering from this**
1.Spray the whole wheel with transparent red and put a red pin stripe on the tire
2.plastidip the whole wheel with black and put a red pin stripe on the tire
3.Spray the wheels with a matte black face and a gloss black lip
4.Spray the wheels with a full gloss black or a transparent black
5.Spray the wheels with a transparent red
6.Spray the wheels with a matte black face and a transparent red lip

7.This is what they look like currently

What are your guys Thoughts?
I also need to fix the heat. I think the coolant valve in the engine bay quit working so I barely get heat in the cabin which sucks. I really wanted to go get a Xmas tree with the roof rack on this thing.
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Out of the choices, #3 looks the best imo.
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Yeah I like the idea of gloss black wheels with the red tire lettering.
This. Or matte black. Or make a couple matte and a couple gloss to go with the paint scheme
Or just do em blaze orange or something lol
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
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Yes!!! Black wheels with red lettering. Red stripe makes it look too toyish, like a hot wheels car.
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
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Looks like a gloss/matte black combo with red tire lettering. Now I have to decide what the tires should say....... Maybe just the crazy font I used on the door?


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