91 318 Nostalgia
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Arbor press ftw
If you pull the trailing arms out, sure.
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Wheel bearing party this weekend? I'll order one for the e34.
I'm booked this weekend unfortunately
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I swapped the FPR on the car in attempt to help the hot start, as a lot of people online said that was their issue. It did not fix mine.
I have a CEL for the coolant temp sensor, but the sensor is clearly new, and there is a receipt for it in the car. I don't know if I double checked the number, but it is blue like it should be.
I have a feeling the CLT sensor is the problem, and I will check the sensor itself and then ensure that the wiring from the plug to the ecu is good. If I can fix the hot start issue I would feel much more confident in the car. -
KaiserRolls said:
Arbor press ftw
If you pull the trailing arms out, sure.
Two bolts ya chump!!!
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Two bolts ya chump!!!
In addition to the cv (moot point) The brake lines, abs sensor, parking brake cable, shock, spring, and sway bar end link.
Not to mention the difficulty of doing the bolts on the passenger side (fuel filler neck)In short, I did my last one in car.
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Fab up a puller
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I swapped the FPR on the car in attempt to help the hot start, as a lot of people online said that was their issue. It did not fix mine.
I have a CEL for the coolant temp sensor, but the sensor is clearly new, and there is a receipt for it in the car. I don't know if I double checked the number, but it is blue like it should be.
I have a feeling the CLT sensor is the problem, and I will check the sensor itself and then ensure that the wiring from the plug to the ecu is good. If I can fix the hot start issue I would feel much more confident in the car.I had an e30 that had an intermittent problem with the temp sensor for the ecu. It would surge at idle when it warmed up and sometimes wouldn't start, it was the corrosion in the plug. I cleaned up the connection and it was fine.
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I had an e30 that had an intermittent problem with the temp sensor for the ecu. It would surge at idle when it warmed up and sometimes wouldn't start, it was the corrosion in the plug. I cleaned up the connection and it was fine.
I think I half assed tried this earlier but couldn't quickly find anything to clean the contacts with.
What did you use? -
CLT issue fixed.
Started by cleaning the contacts, then pulled the ecu connector and checked for continuity between the connector for the ecu and the sensor connector. Nada. Broken wires, b but where?
Grabbed a spare harness (thanks @HipMF for hoarding m42 parts) and doubled checked my test method on a different harness and confirmed that the one in my car didn't have the cotton-nuity.
Started pulling pieces off to gain access to the loom box under the intake and found that under the extremely brittle wire covering was a broken sensor wire, and one just barely hanging on. Patched those up and started it. CEL is gone! Car idled better than ever, and sadly there was another car in the way so I was unable to take it out to get it to temp and check the hot start issue. Though I doubt that still exists.Progress.
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Picked up a little treat yesterday.
I am not actually sure what car they will end up on though lol. The initial intent was for this, but I can adapt them to the perfect offset to run some good tires on the m52 car.
4 fronts, 2 rears. I can run a staggered set or a square set.
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Glad you scooped these up!
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Took the door panel off the drivers side to replace a broken door handle yesterday. It appears that at some point when a previous owner removed the drivers door lock they decided they didn't have enough room to access it so instead they just took a grinder to the door. Why?
Hot start issue is gone, which means we are throwing this thing into daily use even though I am still slightly hesitant of that!
New front control arms, control arm bushings, tie rod assemblies, tie rod boots, and strut tops were ordered yesterday to fix up the front bushings and ball joints. They feel okay but the ball joints are quite worn so I may as well knock it all out at once!
Now to tackle the blower motor. Only works on 4 and sounds bad, which usually means that one of the covers is hitting the blades.
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i've changed a latch mechanism in an e30 sedan door. i wanted very badly to cut holes in the door and/or kill myself, so I can see where the PO was coming from.
Dan
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Now to tackle the blower motor. Only works on 4 and sounds bad, which usually means that one of the covers is hitting the blades.
If it only works on 4, chances are its the blower motor resistor, as 4 is the only speed that bypasses the resistor.
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If it only works on 4, chances are its the blower motor resistor, as 4 is the only speed that bypasses the resistor.
Agreed, though due to the noise it makes I need to do further investigation.
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I haven't seen the motor clip coming loose before.
The last one I did the plastic had warped enough that it was sitting against the fan blades. That was a nice easy fix!Just transferred the title, and picked up plates for this. Daily duty may start tonight.
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