135i build thread. I'm done hobcobbling posts together
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As much as I'm thankful you didn't have kumrow do the work. Doing it in your garage without a lift will be so much of a pain in the ass. Dropping the subframe is really needed to get in there. But good luck to you. We just installed a pair of Hexon r550s in a e90 335i and long with motiv port injection. The power is insane even at only 15psi.
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As much as I'm thankful you didn't have kumrow do the work. Doing it in your garage without a lift will be so much of a pain in the ass. Dropping the subframe is really needed to get in there. But good luck to you. We just installed a pair of Hexon r550s in a e90 335i and long with motiv port injection. The power is insane even at only 15psi.
Well, fingers crossed here because I have a friend locally that has a lift and the hydraulic tools needed to drop a subframe from up that high once disconnected. I've tapped on his garage in the past when I had to do more serious jobs like engine swaps, so I am probably gonna ask him to use the space but can't guarantee it is available yet. That said, I've also dropped BMW subframes without a lift before. Had to do it on my buddy's M3 for bushing upgrades and it was 100% pain in the ass and required some creativity - we ended up lowering it with a jack onto some 2x4s and sliding it out on those.
I know you get miles of room to work on the turbo if you drop the front subframe for the n-series, so I'm definitely planning on it. I just need to source alignment pins for re-installation.
I have heard nothing but great things about power on these bigger turbos at 15-17 psi. My initial plan for sure is going to run a baseline around that boost because it's safe on 93 octane, and then move up from there into likely a 30% e85 mix give or take. I know some people try to stretch it with LPFP upgrade and flex fuel wires but truly port injection is absolutely necessary to get beyond the fueling limitations of these cars. If you're going for more serious power, it was definitely a solid move installing the Motiv kit.
Rest assured I'll be updating this thread with details and photos of the install process. There will likely just be a lot more things to laugh at if I'm doing it on the floor

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small but highly related update: my turbo is done and will be shipping out tomorrow, with a $125 discount to pricematch the sale at n54tuning.com. I've got a couple months to get it installed so I am likely going to start off trying to get it without removing the front subframe. There are some pretty good N54 DIY documents online of people doing it that way, so I'm going to try and model off of that and see what happens. If push comes to shove, well, I've got an engine hoist so I'll drop the subframe if i have to.
I will be picking up a JB4 as well and running the BMS Cobb back-end flash with JB4 running on top of it as that seems to be the defacto standard for anyone running a stage2 turbo on these cars.
in other build news, after a month of sitting in my garage, I was finally able to get the Miata to crank over (warm enough) and take it for a rip. The wire gauge end of the negative battery cable has a loose ground as it was relocated to the trunk and just kinda shoved into a metal bracket that's bolted down for grounding, but honestly it really needs to be soldered together. I took Stuart with me because who the hell knew what would happen - and sure enough we made it about 1000 yards before the car died and needed a bump start, lol. Battery cable just came right out. But for those 1000 yards the car built boost and made power and definitely sounded great.
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Any reason why you don't ditch the COBB for MHD? Apparently JB4 + MHD is the way to go, and it's cheaper.
Also, Miatas come with the battery in the trunk from the factory

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that is inaccurate. I'm on an N55, in which case there is a rough outline of "Q2 2016" for MHD support.
The prescribed way of tuning on a large turbo N55 is with BMS's Cobb backend flash and JB4 ISO. There is a monstrous thread on this at N54tech : http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24788
and my car came with a Cobb AP already so even if MHD was an option for N55, it wouldn't be any cheaper cuz I've already got the AP unit. JB4 ISO with the Cobb back-end flash from Terry is good for north of 500 whp with e85 and meth. Don't really need MHD for more gains even if it were fully fleshed out and developed for the N55. If I wanted to go beyond 500 whp I'd be waiting for the new single turbos that are in development for N55 from Motiv.
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there are like 3 in my area, I'm really good friends with a couple of the dudes that own them.
(2 are supercharged, one is turbo all are e85)
they autox'd with me. those terbo miatas are a riot!
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that is inaccurate. I'm on an N55, in which case there is a rough outline of "Q2 2016" for MHD support.
The prescribed way of tuning on a large turbo N55 is with BMS's Cobb backend flash and JB4 ISO. There is a monstrous thread on this at N54tech : http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24788
and my car came with a Cobb AP already so even if MHD was an option for N55, it wouldn't be any cheaper cuz I've already got the AP unit. JB4 ISO with the Cobb back-end flash from Terry is good for north of 500 whp with e85 and meth. Don't really need MHD for more gains even if it were fully fleshed out and developed for the N55. If I wanted to go beyond 500 whp I'd be waiting for the new single turbos that are in development for N55 from Motiv.
...I forgot that you were N55. Doh!
I need to see this car in person some time. Wouldn't mind see what 500whp is all about either.
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...I forgot that you were N55. Doh!
I need to see this car in person some time. Wouldn't mind see what 500whp is all about either.
you forget because you're spoiled with N54 lol F my life ;(
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so after a minor delay due to my inlet pipe not being ready, turbo is now in transit and will be delivered on Tuesday next week.
After talking with Hallway Pat for a bit I decided it would be wise to pick up a cheaper set of coilovers (BC Racing BR series) for $950 shipped. So I ordered those on Saturday. This will allow me to fix my bro-status ghetto drop that I've been suffering with my H&R sport springs, and hopefully help stabilize the power delivery of the new turbo.
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I had a couple hours free tonight from 9-11 so I started disassembling the car. I'm definitely dropping the subframe. Got under the car and took about 4 seconds to realize it would be insanity to install a turbo on this thing without removing subframe.
Unraveled
Sway bar removed, upper and lower control arms disconnected from subframe, steering rack ends disconnected from wheel hub:
Will hoist the engine tomorrow and just need to remove the steering rack bolts, 6 subframe bolts, and engine mount bolts, then the subframe will come down. Tomorrow I expect to finish disassembly so I can ship my OEM turbo to PURE right away to get my core charge refunded.
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Its not as bad as it looks. I think I had my subframe dropped in about 3 hours (my first time doing it) and I have Xdrive. I think the whole turbo removal process took me about 4 for what its worth.
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Its not as bad as it looks. I think I had my subframe dropped in about 3 hours (my first time doing it) and I have Xdrive. I think the whole turbo removal process took me about 4 for what its worth.
that's what it seems like. Honestly after 2 hours last night for where i'm at - all we're talking about at this point is the engine mount bolts, subframe bolts, and the 2 bolts for the steering rack. I'm about to head out now to get started for the day. More photos to come.
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progress continues steadily. Subframe is now out of the way, engine mount/bracket removed, thermostat is off with WP soon to follow.
I ended up just using my jack to support the subframe and rotate it counter clockwise along with the steering rack. I gained miles of room to work on the turbo but I also don't need to futz with jockeying the subframe back over the steering rack during re-assembly now.
the $80 harbor freight engine support brace seems to be working well so far but to be sure I put a jackstand underneath the transmission bell housing right where it bolts up to the block. The car is shored up pretty well though. There was no movement from the engine when I disconnected the mounts and subframe.
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Nice! I don't envy the lack of room in those cars
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Looks like you snapped off a stud on the right side of the manifold area?
Glad you got everything out.
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That is a very busy block casting. The manifold flanges and bolt pattern are interesting as well
That was the first thing I saw when I looked at the pictures.
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