135i build thread. I'm done hobcobbling posts together
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Sounds like you got a well deserved bonus. Time to enjoy the fruits of your hard work!
too bad 14k of it is going to taxes to fund social benefits to lazy people who don't work that take advantage of systems designed to help unfortunate people who want to work / get back on their feet!
had to get that in there. Yes, I'm bitter.
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well, bad news is I decided to sell all the suspension parts I got. So I recouped my 2800 bucks. Because I will not be tracking my 135i ever again.
The Good news is.......shipping out at the end of January

Kummrow quoted me about $1300 to install (thanks Andy) but I don't really want to spend that so it's gonna happen in my garage, in the middle of February. I'm banking on El Nino to help me out with garage temps.
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Does that mean you no longer plan to track any car or did you make a purchase on a track ready vehicle?
you may notice something gray tucked in the corner of my garage near my BMW with a hardtop, rollbar, racing seats, and so on.......it may also have a turbocharger, i don't know, i'm not an engineer

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This makes me happy. While I'm sure your 135 was a blast on the track, I'm sure it would be more painful to write off (and sad) than an NA that you could replace in a heartbeat.
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This makes me happy. While I'm sure your 135 was a blast on the track, I'm sure it would be more painful to write off (and sad) than an NA that you could replace in a heartbeat.
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that is absolutely the logic behind it. Well, that and it makes tracking WAY more affordable for me. Not having to drop $300 per event for insurance frees up enough money that I can do more events. I eventually want to instruct so I need as much seat time as I can. Consumables are cheaper and so much less wear and tear with how light the car is.
also not having to compromise the ride quality of the BMW and being able to just now focus on straight-line power for the 135i where it shines, and for the money I could sink into it, it still wouldn't be as fast around the track as the Miata.
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As I said on 1Addicts, congrats on your purchase. I miss my '96 turbo Miata. That was the car that really switched my mindset from form to function. It was also the car that really got me into cars. I'd love to buy another one someday.
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As I said on blackpeoplemeet.com, I really dig that color.
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As I said on farmersonly.com, your wood shavings look soft, wanna bed me down?
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As Earl said on stanceworks.com, "sick, bro."
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Clashing the subie, Mazdarati, and BMW community all in one house.

don't forget Honda! I've got a Honda Pilot too
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As much as I'm thankful you didn't have kumrow do the work. Doing it in your garage without a lift will be so much of a pain in the ass. Dropping the subframe is really needed to get in there. But good luck to you. We just installed a pair of Hexon r550s in a e90 335i and long with motiv port injection. The power is insane even at only 15psi.
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As much as I'm thankful you didn't have kumrow do the work. Doing it in your garage without a lift will be so much of a pain in the ass. Dropping the subframe is really needed to get in there. But good luck to you. We just installed a pair of Hexon r550s in a e90 335i and long with motiv port injection. The power is insane even at only 15psi.
Well, fingers crossed here because I have a friend locally that has a lift and the hydraulic tools needed to drop a subframe from up that high once disconnected. I've tapped on his garage in the past when I had to do more serious jobs like engine swaps, so I am probably gonna ask him to use the space but can't guarantee it is available yet. That said, I've also dropped BMW subframes without a lift before. Had to do it on my buddy's M3 for bushing upgrades and it was 100% pain in the ass and required some creativity - we ended up lowering it with a jack onto some 2x4s and sliding it out on those.
I know you get miles of room to work on the turbo if you drop the front subframe for the n-series, so I'm definitely planning on it. I just need to source alignment pins for re-installation.
I have heard nothing but great things about power on these bigger turbos at 15-17 psi. My initial plan for sure is going to run a baseline around that boost because it's safe on 93 octane, and then move up from there into likely a 30% e85 mix give or take. I know some people try to stretch it with LPFP upgrade and flex fuel wires but truly port injection is absolutely necessary to get beyond the fueling limitations of these cars. If you're going for more serious power, it was definitely a solid move installing the Motiv kit.
Rest assured I'll be updating this thread with details and photos of the install process. There will likely just be a lot more things to laugh at if I'm doing it on the floor

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small but highly related update: my turbo is done and will be shipping out tomorrow, with a $125 discount to pricematch the sale at n54tuning.com. I've got a couple months to get it installed so I am likely going to start off trying to get it without removing the front subframe. There are some pretty good N54 DIY documents online of people doing it that way, so I'm going to try and model off of that and see what happens. If push comes to shove, well, I've got an engine hoist so I'll drop the subframe if i have to.
I will be picking up a JB4 as well and running the BMS Cobb back-end flash with JB4 running on top of it as that seems to be the defacto standard for anyone running a stage2 turbo on these cars.
in other build news, after a month of sitting in my garage, I was finally able to get the Miata to crank over (warm enough) and take it for a rip. The wire gauge end of the negative battery cable has a loose ground as it was relocated to the trunk and just kinda shoved into a metal bracket that's bolted down for grounding, but honestly it really needs to be soldered together. I took Stuart with me because who the hell knew what would happen - and sure enough we made it about 1000 yards before the car died and needed a bump start, lol. Battery cable just came right out. But for those 1000 yards the car built boost and made power and definitely sounded great.
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Any reason why you don't ditch the COBB for MHD? Apparently JB4 + MHD is the way to go, and it's cheaper.
Also, Miatas come with the battery in the trunk from the factory

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