Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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I have the traction control under control in my head after a bunch of texts, a phone call and a little research on my end.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Intake Air Temp thread reference. Going to order a barbed vacuum fitting.
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@DrLeadFoot
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The one on the underside of the manifold?
Wiring for traction control looks about right, though I have not used one of the conditioners. What one did you end up using?
Edit: Just kidding, went back a page and found it. -
The one on the underside of the manifold?
Wiring for traction control looks about right, though I have not used one of the conditioners. What one did you end up using?
Edit: Just kidding, went back a page and found it.
The one under the manifold. I'll order this today. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161772492725?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
I went to David Hobbs Honda yesterday. He didn't put me in a honda but I gave him money and he gave me hondabond.
@DrLeadFoot
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Ordered two of these.
I'd be kicking myself if I blew the head gasket again without preparing the block the proper way.
This weekend I'll get my oil cooler sorted out, order some other parts and put some work in!
@DrLeadFoot
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The stone block is the farthest thing from the proper way lol.
It's just a way to do it that allows you to keep the motor in. Not that it won't work, but unless you managed to warp your block you stand a chance of messing it up when you do it by hand.
You only use the stone a couple times, then you switch to sandpaper over the stone.
It's pretty easy, but you will have some very tired arms after! -
The stone block is the farthest thing from the proper way lol.
It's just a way to do it that allows you to keep the motor in. Not that it won't work, but unless you managed to warp your block you stand a chance of messing it up when you do it by hand.
You only use the stone a couple times, then you switch to sandpaper over the stone.
It's pretty easy, but you will have some very tired arms after!
It's far better than doing nothing, right? I'm just nervous about that .0015 gap on cylinder #6.
What would you do?
@DrLeadFoot
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I'm conflicted.
.0015 is practically nothing, but I get your concern.
I would give it a pass with 600 grit to see if any high and low spots show themselves and go from there I guess.
I can confirm that the head gasket that you and I use squishes a lot, so it should have no issue with a .0015 variance -
I'm conflicted.
.0015 is practically nothing, but I get your concern.
I would give it a pass with 600 grit to see if any high and low spots show themselves and go from there I guess.
I can confirm that the head gasket that you and I use squishes a lot, so it should have no issue with a .0015 variance
Okay. Maybe I'll do that. Save my arms!!
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@DrLeadFoot
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-Car on jack stands
-Took Echo gas powered 191mph leaf blower and cleared underneath the car after removing oily cardboard
-Move some other boxes around
-Almost started doing the diff swap
-Left garage
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@DrLeadFoot
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-Car on jack stands
-Took Echo gas powered 191mph leaf blower and cleared underneath the car after removing oily cardboard
-Move some other boxes around
-Almost started doing the diff swap
-Left garage
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I was pretty sure this was a KaiserRolls post until I quadruple checked the username
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I was pretty sure this was a KaiserRolls post until I quadruple checked the username
I'm getting my motivation though. Going back to basics, just go to the garage and chip away every day.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Making boss moves
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@DrLeadFoot
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I did something. Wrong end of the car but actually turned a bolt.
2.93LSD $150 some bearing noise but it works! I'm keeping the cover
I'll hopefully get the 2.93LSD w/60% lock Wangman Diff in there today/this weekend.
@DrLeadFoot
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Are you not going to use a dual ear diff cover?
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I was sold an e36ti diff cover.........
I will probably add a reenforcement to the other side using the diff cover mounting holes as the diff mounting points.
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@DrLeadFoot
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