Build Thread?
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I would strongly suggest relocating the IAT sensor.
How you would use that table for Ideal Gas Law correction is, with a properly tuned VE table, you will log data under normal conditions and expect to see the fuel adders (gair/ gego etc) stay at or very near 100% Then while driving in a different temperature, log again (low speed, in town, hot day type driving) , if your mixture is lean because gair is something other than 100% and all other fuel adders are at or near 100% then you would reduce the effect of the ideal gas law in the fueling equation (drag the blue node down at the corresponding MAT) if it is for some reason richer than it should be you would drag the node up.If there is a default setting that came with the firmware I would probably leave it at that and worry more about the IAT sensor location, but if you think the sensor is in a decent location then plug away at logging until the fuel adders until gego is at 100%.
if gair is at 100% then that means the ideal gas law consideration is being ignored completely, you should only have gair at 100% near ~75F (standard temperature and pressure from chemistry class) gair can be ___% at a different temperature, and as long as gego is 100% then you are setup right and in good hands.
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That is all good and dandy and easy enough to mess around with but obviously my base issue is heat soak. So that being said I may investigate getting the IAT sensor into the plastic manifold (less thermal conductivity) and then create a small heat shield for the sensor. I will play with some MS settings for now to attempt to "put a band aid" on the problem.
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That would be a good idea.
I need to figure something out because when the IAT heatsoaks I get a nasty idle surge. That or it is caused by something else, but it won't surge idle on startup, only after driving. -
Did some driving yesterday, leaned out my AFR's a bit and suddenly it is super smooth. Still trying to figure out timing, and what it wants. Got rid of most of the idle surge!
Session had to be cut short after I saw the oil temp gauge, 260 degrees is not okay.
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
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Took the E30 to the shop yesterday, its nice to be able to drive it through the city, but it was not without headache. I need an oil cooler pronto!
Few shots from the infamous Mr. Spence
Ben's Turbo E30 by Jake Spence Photo, on Flickr
Ben's Turbo E30 by Jake Spence Photo, on Flickr -
Cool pics
It was nice to see the car and new shop.
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I just glanced at the last picture I posted, I can't believe how high up in the car that exhaust is for being 3"....
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I am not sure, tuning is not as easy as I thought and finding someone to drive while I tune has proven to be tricky, mix in the fact that I get high oil temps and need to get that under control makes me think that it won't be there. Which saddens me.
Edit: straight from the Holset Book of goodness. MAX oil temp under any condition: 248F or 120C
I am getting oil temps a bit past that so I don't want to risk ruining the turbo as it is oil cooled. -
It's not the fitting that's the issue, it's the cost.
By the time I get the OFH Cap, fittings, hose, cooler and thermostat we are looking at ~$500 -
Did you check with snap to see what he is running?
IM RUNNING AN M20 BRO
but really, the M20B25 comes with an oil cooler from the factory so all I had to do was remove the old one, add AN fittings to the housing and mount up a bigger one.
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Either the IE cap if it is the right size or the one from Rally Road
Though if this oil cooler deal takes me as long as it seems it will I may just take my spare OFH and see if it is feasible to just tap into one. Maybe make a plate and run an external oil filter? I dunno, we will see. -
Alas I have retired the car for the season again, but this time in a heated shop were it is more likely that I will work on it very frequently!
The oil temp issues got the best of me and I am unable to fork over all of the cash required to put one in, along with the diff dumping a lot of oil I decided it was time again. Start build.
Took off the front again in order to start fitting the oil cooler, forgot how much I hate having hoods on when working on cars. Took that off promptly and I am always annoyed by the hood hinge being half painted and dirty underneath, so I pulled all of that out and cleaned it real nice!
Much better
Started looking at the engine bay and was trying to figure out what I wanted to do with it. I have a few patches of mismatched paint from previous repair and some rust that I would like to replace by the ABS unit, luckily I can still buy the sheet metal that goes under the abs new from bmw for a price that is well worth it!
Well, might as well do my annual engine pull and do things right!
Started prepping the motor for pulling again and decided that I will do some bay shave and tuck followed by a respray so it will actually match my exterior! I also want to paint the core support because it is not really painted and it is visible from the outside of the car.
The lowest cross beam in that picture, and most of the core support will be painted black.
Goals
Tuck this
Catch can this
Delete ABS and remove lines, make a better looking and more stealth brake fluid reservoir
Also contemplating putting the fuse box in the cabin and running the engine harness straight into the firewall and not over the top of the engine.
There, major details, I want to do some small stuff as well, like add a strut bar, replace my strut tops and whatnot, but those are short little projects!
Picture of half of the shop for the kids
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I don't really see the vw in them. I like them a lot though. Simple yet sporty, and nice and clean.
my vw has them...they are vw rims fo sho
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Ha, digging up some old stuff huh?
Almost two years ago!
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