Build Thread?
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I will look into the MAT correction, when it revs up on idle it cuts fuel and hits a 22.4 AFR and then drops back down and does it again.
I am running High-Z injectors now, and boy are they big.... I know the VE Table is all relevant to Req Fuel but my Req Fuel is 3.3 and my idle values in the VE table are around 30, I think I have enough overhead for more power...
I am trying to get it on the road as much as possible to get the tuning knocked out to hopefully make it to a meet!Side note, my stealthy-ness didn't work. The car is loud, the turbo is amazingly loud, and so is the BOV. Went past Jason's (forum browser, Dinan M5) house yesterday and let it spool up a bit, he mentioned that I could have left my intercooler black because "I'm not fooling anybody". Oh well. Always room for a muffler if I feel the need.
Snap: What IAT sensor are you using?
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As am I, I shall try the ~70% trick
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This is the table that I have, I do not have any options for scaling. Suggestions?
The IAT sensor looks like it it part of the power steering fluid cap in this picture, its about 4 inches from the TB
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I would strongly suggest relocating the IAT sensor.
How you would use that table for Ideal Gas Law correction is, with a properly tuned VE table, you will log data under normal conditions and expect to see the fuel adders (gair/ gego etc) stay at or very near 100% Then while driving in a different temperature, log again (low speed, in town, hot day type driving) , if your mixture is lean because gair is something other than 100% and all other fuel adders are at or near 100% then you would reduce the effect of the ideal gas law in the fueling equation (drag the blue node down at the corresponding MAT) if it is for some reason richer than it should be you would drag the node up.If there is a default setting that came with the firmware I would probably leave it at that and worry more about the IAT sensor location, but if you think the sensor is in a decent location then plug away at logging until the fuel adders until gego is at 100%.
if gair is at 100% then that means the ideal gas law consideration is being ignored completely, you should only have gair at 100% near ~75F (standard temperature and pressure from chemistry class) gair can be ___% at a different temperature, and as long as gego is 100% then you are setup right and in good hands.
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That is all good and dandy and easy enough to mess around with but obviously my base issue is heat soak. So that being said I may investigate getting the IAT sensor into the plastic manifold (less thermal conductivity) and then create a small heat shield for the sensor. I will play with some MS settings for now to attempt to "put a band aid" on the problem.
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That would be a good idea.
I need to figure something out because when the IAT heatsoaks I get a nasty idle surge. That or it is caused by something else, but it won't surge idle on startup, only after driving. -
Did some driving yesterday, leaned out my AFR's a bit and suddenly it is super smooth. Still trying to figure out timing, and what it wants. Got rid of most of the idle surge!
Session had to be cut short after I saw the oil temp gauge, 260 degrees is not okay.
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
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Took the E30 to the shop yesterday, its nice to be able to drive it through the city, but it was not without headache. I need an oil cooler pronto!
Few shots from the infamous Mr. Spence
Ben's Turbo E30 by Jake Spence Photo, on Flickr
Ben's Turbo E30 by Jake Spence Photo, on Flickr -
Cool pics
It was nice to see the car and new shop.
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I just glanced at the last picture I posted, I can't believe how high up in the car that exhaust is for being 3"....
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I am not sure, tuning is not as easy as I thought and finding someone to drive while I tune has proven to be tricky, mix in the fact that I get high oil temps and need to get that under control makes me think that it won't be there. Which saddens me.
Edit: straight from the Holset Book of goodness. MAX oil temp under any condition: 248F or 120C
I am getting oil temps a bit past that so I don't want to risk ruining the turbo as it is oil cooled. -
It's not the fitting that's the issue, it's the cost.
By the time I get the OFH Cap, fittings, hose, cooler and thermostat we are looking at ~$500
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