crappy e36
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I was reading up on another forum and there was a guy saying that poly rtabs are a consumable when tracking an e36 regularly but he never said how long they last. If I can get a whole season out of them I'd be fine with that instead of the solid rtabs because the solid rtabs supposedly wear subframe bushings and whatnot out faster due to their lack of movement.
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I can see how that would be somewhat true, the OE rubber bushings twist rather than how the poly bushings just rub/pivot on the center sleeve. That being said mine were still tight after 20k of street driving. I would think with proper lube they should last quite a while. They also are easy to install and don't need to be pressed in like OE.
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if your drifting an e36 the rear rubber trailing arm and diff mount are the two weakest things. the trailing arm bushings don't last me an oil change if i drive my car hard but they are easy to change. the urethane ones aren't that great either, i'd go for delrin, brass, or uniballs in that order. e46 arms are a near must for you that and a shimmed or welded diff. just my .02 cents
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if your drifting an e36 the rear rubber trailing arm and diff mount are the two weakest things. the trailing arm bushings don't last me an oil change if i drive my car hard but they are easy to change. the urethane ones aren't that great either, i'd go for delrin, brass, or uniballs in that order. e46 arms are a near must for you that and a shimmed or welded diff. just my .02 cents
Delrin it is. Love machining that stuff. E36/46 rtabs are the same right? My brother needs a set made bad..
sk8 or die
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if your drifting an e36 the rear rubber trailing arm and diff mount are the two weakest things. the trailing arm bushings don't last me an oil change if i drive my car hard but they are easy to change. the urethane ones aren't that great either, i'd go for delrin, brass, or uniballs in that order. e46 arms are a near must for you that and a shimmed or welded diff. just my .02 cents
Yeah I think im just going to get solid rtabs then. My car feels like its sliding on ice when I drive it down the street whether the tires are toed in or not. I didn't want to go broke on the rear end but it seems like there's no other way, not to mention the fact that I'm going to have to build a custom coilover setup for the rear. Ha
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There are "true" rear coilover set ups out there but they are ridiculously expensive. AST and Intrax are the two that come to mind. When you do it just make sure you have some kind of reinforcement on the strut tower beyond the normal strut tower plate. I looked into this before I went with my FK's and switching to the true rear coilover will increase the loads on the towers by quite a bit.
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Rowley, get machining! I could measure the ID of the trailing arm hole tonight, mine are in the basement with bushings out. I can also check the dimension of the ID of the sleeve that goes through the poly.
Honestly that would be amazing. I can build them in minutes, and we have delrin in stock. Brothers gonna be stoked about this haha.
sk8 or die
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There are "true" rear coilover set ups out there but they are ridiculously expensive. AST and Intrax are the two that come to mind. When you do it just make sure you have some kind of reinforcement on the strut tower beyond the normal strut tower plate. I looked into this before I went with my FK's and switching to the true rear coilover will increase the loads on the towers by quite a bit.
Yeah, ill have to reinforce the tower and the spindle but itll be worth it to have a real coilover setup.
And if you guys could machine solid rtabs that would be AMAZING.
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I will get the measurements. The only problem I can see with a solid mount is that it is not a purely rotational force. I would think that it would be a good time to weld in rtab pocket reinforcements.
Definitely, I would reinforce the rtabs and anything else I can in conjunction with the subframe
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Definitely, I would reinforce the rtabs and anything else I can in conjunction with the subframe
AKG motorsport has excellent prices and the parts are good, they are what I used.
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Just curious what benefits you think you might see out of a true coilover in the rear.
Easier adjustability, better limiting of wheel travel, I just think the e30/e36 rear suspension is outdated, I mean every other car in the world has struts or coilovers at every corner for a reason..
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Usually the race guys go to a true coilover in back for increased wheel travel and to use a tube style LCA.
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Usually the race guys go to a true coilover in back for increased wheel travel and to use a tube style LCA.
I would think wheel travel is increased to a ridiculous amount with the stock setup in coilover form, what acts as a limiter with that setup? The shocks?
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Yea its the shocks. I believe they typically run maybe 5" of travel and after lowering itbon the shock you decrease it further.
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Yea its the shocks. I believe they typically run maybe 5" of travel and after lowering itbon the shock you decrease it further.
I've never heard of track cars having 5" of travel, even with rally cars that would seem like a lot. My coilovers on my e34 travel about an inch and if I adjusted them for 5" of travel they would basically ride like stock struts except with dampening capabilities.
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Got the dimensions, here's a sketch i made. Didn't have time to draw it in CAD. It has to be a split design for assembly. The poly ones have an aluminum sleeve through the center, the bolt is an m12. My poly ones have a sleeve that is about 1" O.D. through the middle, now that I think about it, the sleeve is probably necessary because there needs to be rotation when the suspension compresses and the mount bracket locks down on whatever is in the center. If you didn't have a sleeve then it would clamp down on the bushing and the rotation would be forced to happen at the O.D. of the bushing against the control arm.
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Got the dimensions, here's a sketch i made. Didn't have time to draw it in CAD. It has to be a split design for assembly. The poly ones have an aluminum sleeve through the center, the bolt is an m12. My poly ones have a sleeve that is about 1" O.D. through the middle, now that I think about it, the sleeve is probably necessary because there needs to be rotation when the suspension compresses and the mount bracket locks down on whatever is in the center. If you didn't have a sleeve then it would clamp down on the bushing and the rotation would be forced to happen at the O.D. of the bushing against the control arm.
Looks good to me.
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