E21 project thread
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Yep! PM me and we can setup a royalty payment schedule.
All kidding aside, It looks good on those charge pipes. Bring this thing to work so I can sneak a peek in the parking lot!
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Thanks to kyle (kyletime666) for doing the machine work on my side 2.0L project, I got the cleaned and polished crank back today.
Did a few more things to the car today, but hopefully tomorrow I can crank a lot more of the piddly stuff out.
Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk
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Got quite a bit of the piddly stuff done today. Ran fpr vac to fitting on manifold, filled with coolant, changed oil, secured return fuel hose to hard line, got a large vac cap for a spot on throttle body, tightened oil cooler lines and turbo oil feed line and tightened alternator down.
I also figured out a spot to mount my custom catch can, hidden behind the brake booster. I took the spare piece of aluminum strip I had and bent up a bracket for it. Drilled some mounting holes, powdercoated it and boom, done! Just need to run the hoses from valve cover to intake.
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How's the triple?
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How's the triple?
Lovely as usual! If only it would stop freakin raining. I see you've been getting your supermoto fix lately too, eh?
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Lightened and surfaced flywheel!
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So I got everything connected and done on the car and it is time to get it running and driving. She cranks very nicely, but of course doesnt want to fire. I figure it is something with the Megasquirt wiring either on the car or in the MS ecu itself. Snap and I are currently researching and working on these bugs. Hopefully will have a nice update at some point here.
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Yay for updates.
Edit: is the issue that burnt out capacitor that snap sent me a pic of?
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So I ended up removing the VR conditioner and all wiring the PO did along with all my stepper IAC wiring from the MS controller board. I then followed the MS2extra EDIS wiring schematic from scratch and tested it. With a little temporary rewiring to the EDIS module, I now get an RPM signal on my log. AWESOME!!!
I now just need to finalize the EDIS wiring, shielding/grounding wires that need it and so on. Then check for constant strong spark to check that side of things off the list.
The other thing I have noticed is that Tunerstudio still says NOT SYNCED when I turn the ignition on as well as while I am cranking. Someone said that the car will never fire with it saying NOT SYNCED while cranking and that I need to debug the trigger setup before attempting anything else (3rd post in link below). I have no idea what this means. Any ideas?
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Got the EDIS sparking well finally, but now the MS won't ground the fuel pump relay to get fuel to the rail. I've been chasing problem after problem and I think I finally narrowed it down to the small one that will make the car run once fixed. Tomorrow I am going to try and bypass the MS signal for the fuel pump relay and put that relay pin direct to ground. Hopefully I should have a running car. *crossing my fingers* If that is the case, then I know something within the MS unit itself is bad. I've been reading up and it seems that a few bad transistors could be causing MS to act this way. We shall see if the ground switch-a-roo works first tho.
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Got the EDIS sparking well finally, but now the MS won't ground the fuel pump relay to get fuel to the rail. I've been chasing problem after problem and I think I finally narrowed it down to the small one that will make the car run once fixed. Tomorrow I am going to try and bypass the MS signal for the fuel pump relay and put that relay pin direct to ground. Hopefully I should have a running car. *crossing my fingers* If that is the case, then I know something within the MS unit itself is bad. I've been reading up and it seems that a few bad transistors could be causing MS to act this way. We shall see if the ground switch-a-roo works first tho.
Your car started today, correct?
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It surely did! The ground switch-a-roo worked so now I know the issue is within the megasquirt itself for the fuel pump relay signal. It was music to my ears until the idle rpm shot up and I noticed a fuel leak at the rail, doh!!
I figured the IAC that is currently not being used is open and causing a huge vac leak which would cause the high idle. I went ahead and capped that off for now and should fix that problem.
I also ran a new switched 12v source wire to the megasquirt fuse panel and cleaned up the wiring a bit too.
As for the fuel leak. I am thinking that the welds from the fpr mount is where its coming from. You can see the spray pattern in the video below which makes me think its pin holes in the welds rather than it leaking from the cup where the fpr nipple mounts inside the rail.
http://vid144.photobucket.com/albums/r175/bassboy3313/VID_20140715_133548_828_zps7f6017f1.mp4
http://vid144.photobucket.com/albums/r175/bassboy3313/VID_20140715_133407_674_zps640d113c.mp4
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It all falls in line, huh?
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So I got the fuel rail dye checked and rewelded and still has a leak. This obviously means its something else. After thinking and thinking some more, I realized that the stock cup that the FPR o-ring goes into was tapered, just like the injector cups. When I modified the rail I had to make a new cup and weld it on. Doing so, the new cup is not tapered and I am assuming that the o-ring is not sealing properly due to this.
What I am thinking now is to cut off the FPR bracket and cup from the rail, weld on a nipple, then its just running a fuel hose to an aftermarket FPR. I didn't want to go this route before since I hate the look of those stupid adjustable FPR's with the gauge on it and junk. I then thought, maybe it won't be so bad. I can have the gauge on the FPR to dial in the pressure (3.5bar or roughly 50psi), unscrew the gauge from the FPR and screw in a plug. This way it wont look as stupid. Seems like the easiest route to take and less chance of leaking.
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Finally after what feels like a bajillion times trying to get this fuel rail to stop leaking its actually stopped leaking. The metal that these rails are made out of just do not weld well. So I ended up cutting off fpr bracket and cup, drilling/tapping a large nut and welding that to the rail. Then I covered the entire area with 2 layers of jb weld and 2 coats of KBS rust seal paint.
Leaking
Fixed
While all that was happening, I kept my sanity by doing other things such as...
Painting some emblems to match
And replacing US seatbelt/o2 sensor light with a blank piece
Now to mount the fpr, run longer hoses, put things back together and start tuning megasquirt! Calling on Snap!
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